Firebird ignitiion problems
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Laguna Beach, Ca
Car: Gutted 92' RS TRACK ONLY / '86 Mustang gt 'vert / 1982 Yamiaha xs400 Cafe Racer
Engine: L03; TBI is IT! / 5.0HO (306) SFI / 400cc air cooled twin
Transmission: 700-r4 / WCT5/ 6-speed close ratio
Firebird ignitiion problems
My friend was driving and was late to work. In his haste, he pulled the key out of the ignition to fast...before it was locked in the "off" position. Now the car won't start. Now you can turn the ignition without the key in place...you can hear the fuel pump go click click click, and all the dash lights come on....but the motor won't crank over...Fuses maybe? or is the ignition unit going to need replacement? What do you think?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 532
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From: Laguna Beach, Ca
Car: Gutted 92' RS TRACK ONLY / '86 Mustang gt 'vert / 1982 Yamiaha xs400 Cafe Racer
Engine: L03; TBI is IT! / 5.0HO (306) SFI / 400cc air cooled twin
Transmission: 700-r4 / WCT5/ 6-speed close ratio
No, but get this he must not have put it all the way in park, so that little microswich in the shifter was'nt depressed, anyhow we shifted to neutral, then started the motor no prob.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 532
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From: Laguna Beach, Ca
Car: Gutted 92' RS TRACK ONLY / '86 Mustang gt 'vert / 1982 Yamiaha xs400 Cafe Racer
Engine: L03; TBI is IT! / 5.0HO (306) SFI / 400cc air cooled twin
Transmission: 700-r4 / WCT5/ 6-speed close ratio
odd huh?
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Actually, it does kind of make sense.
If you ever rip apart your interior (which I have, you will see how the key gets "locked" in by the shifter. There is a little cable that runs from the shifter assembly to the dash. That cable moves the column sleeve which locks the key cylinder. (remove the knee bolster and watch it).
In my Camaro's rehab stage, I kind of "forced" my key to the on position once (popped it past the shifter locking mechanism) and from that point, you have to push the key back (off) as far as it will go in order to put the shifter into park fully.
Just a thought.
If you ever rip apart your interior (which I have, you will see how the key gets "locked" in by the shifter. There is a little cable that runs from the shifter assembly to the dash. That cable moves the column sleeve which locks the key cylinder. (remove the knee bolster and watch it).
In my Camaro's rehab stage, I kind of "forced" my key to the on position once (popped it past the shifter locking mechanism) and from that point, you have to push the key back (off) as far as it will go in order to put the shifter into park fully.
Just a thought.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
From: Laguna Beach, Ca
Car: Gutted 92' RS TRACK ONLY / '86 Mustang gt 'vert / 1982 Yamiaha xs400 Cafe Racer
Engine: L03; TBI is IT! / 5.0HO (306) SFI / 400cc air cooled twin
Transmission: 700-r4 / WCT5/ 6-speed close ratio
Well that explains what happend....that's an interesting setup, but effective....I thought at first it might be some kind of theft-deterrent devise at work preventing the motor to turn on (like if you break the ignition to force the car to start or something like that)...Thanks for the knoweledge.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Here is my guess as to what happened.
The key was yanked, as stated, before the cylinder returned fully to the "lock" position. That means that the cylinder sleeve never fully got seated. That, in a sense, prevents the shifter from returning all the way to the park position, which means the park/neutral switch doesn't fully register. Now, when shifting to neutral, because its located in the middle, where the contacts aren't hindered by the key cylinder, it will line up there, hence, being able to start.
Try this: Put the key in the lock position, or as close to as possible. Jam the shfiter up into park HARD. That's what I did. You could also take it apart and manually reset it I suppose, if indeed it is the problem.
*edit* here's a picture Vader posted, shows whats going on sort of.
The key was yanked, as stated, before the cylinder returned fully to the "lock" position. That means that the cylinder sleeve never fully got seated. That, in a sense, prevents the shifter from returning all the way to the park position, which means the park/neutral switch doesn't fully register. Now, when shifting to neutral, because its located in the middle, where the contacts aren't hindered by the key cylinder, it will line up there, hence, being able to start.
Try this: Put the key in the lock position, or as close to as possible. Jam the shfiter up into park HARD. That's what I did. You could also take it apart and manually reset it I suppose, if indeed it is the problem.
*edit* here's a picture Vader posted, shows whats going on sort of.
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