So far I have replaced timming chain ,gears, and Electronic Ignition Module. Still no start.

I set upper gear with "dot" at top of gear with # 1 cylinder at TDC. This is what 2 seperate repair manuels said to do.

I am being told by others that the repair manuels are wrong and the top gear should have "DOT " at bottom of gear.

I spent 12 hours to do the chain and gears please tell me the repair manuel did not lie to me.

Engine started and sounded great for about 4 sec and shut down now turns over and sounds like its going to start, almost acts like its flooded.

Thanks
HC

 

you sure you were reading about the right engine.service manuals usually have info on all diff engines that went into the specific car.
all the chebby's ive done its been cam gear dot at 6 o'clock and crank gear at 12.

 

cam and crank are correct. I think it maybe a carb problem starting to see gas around bottom of carb.
Any others ideas.
HC

 

did you try cranking ing it with your foot totally of the gas for a while... then if it doesn't start let is sit for a while this will hopfully get alot fo the gas out of the engine if it is flooded.

 

Yes.
I also took all plugs out crancked engine with no plugs to blow out any gas. Cleaned and re-gapped plugs. when I turned it over ran for about three seconds and flooded out agaiin. Could the float be stuck or bad if so how can I check.
HC

P.S.
Before any one asks I marked all wires to make sure they went back in correct position, I also grounded each plug to check for spark and spark was strong on all 8.
H.C.

 

It depends on whether you are TDC on the compression stroke or TDC on the exhaust stroke. The dot will be at the top of the gear for one and bottom for the other, since the cam spins at half the speed of the crank. It will be correct either way you do it, the crank knows no difference between compression and exhaust as far as that goes...hope that made sense.

I doubt that is your trouble. Are you positive the ignition module is ok? Might want to get it checked. I have had modules go bad after a few seconds of running right out of the box.

 

when you let it run are you giving it some more gas like tryiong to rev it... if not try it mayb it wil keep it going... other wise your cabr is waYYYYY out of wack.. idle mixture screwes could have gotten screwed up. and if it was her igm thie would be no start. when you start the car does it go black smoke ...??
you should probally also change your oil cause thier proablly gas in it

 

most manuals will tell you to install the crank gear at 12 and the cam gear at six, this allows you to see and line up the dots with little chance of error, after that you need to spin the engine untill both dots are straight up, both valves on 1 closed, this would be the #1 firing position

 

Ridecamro:
their is gas in oil thanks for the tip.
also not blowing any smoke.
I did try lowering the idle speed the day before engine went out it was idling at 1100 so i turned it down to about 800. car ran good. went to work 25miles one way. came home 24 & 3/4 miles car shut down. how do i reset idle to correct position.
will i need to have the carb rebuilt.

Ede:
Thanks for clearing up the "dots" debate.

H.C.

 

If the car ran for 3 seconds and then "flooded" again, then it has a carb problem.

How do you know it's "flooded"? Did the plugs come out soaked with fuel? Do you smell fuel in the exhaust? If so, be careful, because when you finally do get it to run, the fuel in the exhaust will ignite, and it could blow the exhaust system off of the car.

I recall an instance of that, years ago, at a transmission place my late little brother worked..... they had some 350 2-barrel motor on a stand that they used for run-testing transmissions, with an exhaust that kind of ran up the back wall of the building; one day, it suddenly stopped working. They thought it was out of gas or something, and kept pouring fuel in it. Finally somebody realized it had no spark; they changed the rotor or whatever it was that broke; and it cranked right up. The fuel in the exhaust exploded, and it knocked the wall down. All of it. Down to the ground. It was hilarious.

Oil in the gas is not necessarily an indicator of bad rings. Usually it indicates that way too much gas is getting dumped in the intake; and when that happens, some of it is bound to be able to leak past the rings and contaminate the oil.

I'd suggest repairing the carb, changing the oil, and then see where that leaves you.

 

I just took top of carb off and found one of the secondary pickup tubes had come out and was laying loose in the shaft in goes into. could this be the cause of the flooding.

H.C.

 

Probably not

Look for dirt in the needle valve, or a damaged float that doesn't float any more, or something that the float can be hanging up on, or one of the plugs fallen completely out of the bottom of the fuel bowl on the primary side.

 

i woudl just say do a rebuild on it and see how that goes

 

what size carb are you running?

 

Running
Rochester Quadrajet.

Engine code is H . However when I got the ignition control module it required The one for G which has 7 pins??????

H.C.

 

The module is the same whether H (LG4) or G (L69).

 

I got the module for the H (LG4) which is what my car calls for and it only had 4 pins.
The module for G (L69) has 7 pins which matched the one in the distributer ????

 

4-pin = big cap non-computer-controlled
7-pin = big cap computer-controlled
8-pin = small cap computer-controlled (87-up)

LG4s and L69s both in these cars were all computer controlled, in the US. Some export LG4s were not. I don't know about export L69s. I don't know where you are, or where your car was purchased, or whether it's actually the original distributor. It's possible that the book is wrong. It is not possible to put the wrong module in, and have it work; so run whatever matches what's already there.

 

ENGINE WILL RUN ONLY WHEN KEY IN START POSITION.
SOUNDS GOOD LIKE ITS GONNA RUN WHEN KEY RETURNS TO RUN POSSITION SHUT DOWN.
COULD THE IGNITION SWITCH BE BAD?????????????

H.C.

 

Is it actually running in start? Since it ran fine for a few seconds after reassembly, have you checked your distributor position. If loose it could have turned a changed your timing. Just an idea no one else had.

 

so your saying it starts. then it dies after you let off of the start pos. and it returns to the run. this part is 46 bucks it's located on the stearing colum. and is cheaper tog et forma junk yard. or better yet run a switch from the 2 wirse that connect when you put the switch in run. so when you start the car you flp that switch then start her up

 

YEAH AND WHILE YOU ARE RUNNIN THIS DUCT TAPE AND ZIPPY STRIP IGNITION SWITCH IDEA CALL YOUR INSURANCE AGENT AND GET FULL COVERAGE, CAUSE YOUR GONNA NEED IT DOIN SOMETHIN STUPID LIKE THAT, JUST SPEND THE EXTREMELY LITTLE BIT OF CASH IT COST TO GET AN IGNITION SWITCH.

 

I assume any duct tape will work, but what size zippy strips should I get.

H.C

 

I would recommend running a jumper wire temporarily to determine if the switch is the problem-or use a meter to check conductivity of the switch when it's in the run position. Always better to be sure than to throw parts at it.

Whats with the caps?

 

Thanks
Will try jumper if works will get new switch.
do I need any special tools to take apart steering colum.

 

There's an excellent article in the tech area on tightening your tilt steering column that can get you there. You'll need a steering wheel puller. You can rent one from autozone or somewhere. The article also recommends a lock plate depressing tool, but I've used a 24" clamp between the lock plate and the brake pedal-point being you can probably figure out a way without the special tool.

 

THE DEAL WITH THE CAPS IS THAT I HIT THE KEYBOARD YESTERDAY WHEN I WAS SEARCHING FOR PARTS ON JEG'S AND NOW IT COMES AND GOES AS IT PLEASES CAPS IS ON ONE SEC AND OFF THE NEXT, I DONT KNOW, BUT I WAS JOKIN ABOUT THAT DUCT TAPE AND ZIP STRIP IDEA I KNEW YOU WAS WANTIN HER TO RUN A JUMPER

 

The JEGS thing is a likely story, but perhaps we could run a zip tie with some duct tape across your shift key?

It's all cool, no worries.

 

sounds like some wireing might have gotten messed up. if is a 84 carbed i assume the only power you will need to run is to your coil check the coil wire for power while the key is in the run position. if it has power you should be getting spark then concentrate on your fuel mixture. dont go jumpering things around it only makes a bad problem worse. fix it how it is suppossed to be. also if you are haveing flood problems hold it to the floor and crank it dont let off and crank. holding it to the floor lets more air in to flush some of the extra fuel and in most cases will help it start by creating a fuel mixture that will burn, just dont over do it

 

Jumpers are acceptable as a diagnostic aid, never would recommend anyone use it as a fix. Still would prefer the Fluke but not everyone has one. 92RS is right about opening the throttle to clear flooding. Q-jets were designed this way unfortunately this in counter-intuitive to most.

 

pull start it lol