code 36?
code 36?
what's a code 36? My SES light comes on ever once in a while and it's always a code 36? What is it. There is no noticeable change in how it drives. what could this be? how can I fix it?
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http://www.chris1roc.cz28.com - not done yet but has pics of my car
88 iroc
LB9 305 tpi
k&N, flowmaster, ADS chip
160* thermostat
home made ram air
removed smog pump
TB bypass
ASCD big block hood
AIM - chris1roc
------------------
http://www.chris1roc.cz28.com - not done yet but has pics of my car
88 iroc
LB9 305 tpi
k&N, flowmaster, ADS chip
160* thermostat
home made ram air
removed smog pump
TB bypass
ASCD big block hood
AIM - chris1roc
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
code 36- MAF Sensor burn-off circuit.
Possible causes:
1. Bad connection.
2. Open circuit, or short in circuit.
3. Defective MAF sensor burn-off relay.
4. Defective MAF sensor.
5. Defective ECM.
Possible causes:
1. Bad connection.
2. Open circuit, or short in circuit.
3. Defective MAF sensor burn-off relay.
4. Defective MAF sensor.
5. Defective ECM.
Hey, all,
I recall one particularly interesting discussion where the MAF burnoff relay was operating, the MAF connections were clean and tight, but the auxilliary oil pressure switch had an intermittent connection and somehow fed back through the circuits to the ECM and would interrupt the MAF burnoff cycle. This would cause a periodic code '36'.
Just in case you exhaust all the conventional fixes for the problem (relay, connections, MAF wiring, grounds) and still have trouble, I thought I'd throw that one out there.
(The message archives can be a useful thing if used intelligently, and a dangerous thing if used by me.)
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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
I recall one particularly interesting discussion where the MAF burnoff relay was operating, the MAF connections were clean and tight, but the auxilliary oil pressure switch had an intermittent connection and somehow fed back through the circuits to the ECM and would interrupt the MAF burnoff cycle. This would cause a periodic code '36'.
Just in case you exhaust all the conventional fixes for the problem (relay, connections, MAF wiring, grounds) and still have trouble, I thought I'd throw that one out there.
(The message archives can be a useful thing if used intelligently, and a dangerous thing if used by me.)

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Hey Madmax just wondering what made you say that about the battery and code 36. I do not drive my car often and from time to time get that code my battery does run down a lot. In fact was getting code 36 the other day and charged the battery and now it is gone. For someone like me who maybe drives the car once or twice in a month is their anything I can do. I was thinking of getting that Sears Security battery that runs down to a certain point but not sure if that would help or not. Anyone have any suggestions?
I know that my dad has this thing for his boat battery that doesn't really charge it but it just keeps it at the same level, and keeps it from wearing down.
------------------
http://www.chris1roc.cz28.com - not done yet but has pics of my car
88 iroc
LB9 305 tpi
k&N, flowmaster, ADS chip
160* thermostat
home made ram air
removed smog pump
TB bypass
ASCD big block hood
AIM - chris1roc
------------------
http://www.chris1roc.cz28.com - not done yet but has pics of my car
88 iroc
LB9 305 tpi
k&N, flowmaster, ADS chip
160* thermostat
home made ram air
removed smog pump
TB bypass
ASCD big block hood
AIM - chris1roc
Guest
Posts: n/a
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Raymond 5.7 89 Formula:
For someone like me who maybe drives the car once or twice in a month is their anything I can do</font>
For someone like me who maybe drives the car once or twice in a month is their anything I can do</font>
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Madmax I have one of those already on my car but I thought it was not a good idea to keep disconnecting battery a lot. Everytime I do that I have to reset my stereo controls,also I thought it was not good for the computer, thought it had to relearn cetain things everytime it had power shut off to it. The disconnect **** is handy when working on the car though if you need to kill battery.Thanks for the info.
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