I got the 350 pretty much down to the bare block. Only thing left is one damn piston/rod. THis thing has been sittin outside for a while, so rust is more than likely the culprit. But 30 over will fix that. But first, I gotta get this damn piston out! I used a can of PB blaster and WD40. Rubber mallet like the others? Hell no. Hammer? didnt budge. Freakin sledge hammer (very carefully), nuthin. The way it looks is that the rust on the cylinder walls arent allowing it to move. Is there anything other than a dingle-berry tree(not sure the real name ) that can get most of it off? Or another way of getting it out? I was gonna try and punch it through the bottom end, but the mains wont let it happen. Any suggestions?

 

I cant remeber the name of it to save my life, but the old timers used to recommend it when starting an engine that hadnt been started in a while, supposedly it would break the rings loose of the cylinder walls, Anyone?

 

Is it moving at all?

Is it stuck at the top?

Have you tried PB Blaster to loosen up the rusted rings?

If it moves at all, knock it down the bore as far as you can and sandpaper the rust off the cylinder.
If it's stuck at the top, did you remove the ridge at the top of the cylinder before taking the piston/rods out?
If you didn't use a ridge reamer and the block has a lot of miles on it then you got lucky on the other seven.

If all else fails, take your 10 lb sledge hammer and a chisel and bust the piston and remove it in pieces.
It's most likely a cast piston and you can break it pretty easily.
Forged pistons are a different story and they can put up more of a fight than a cast piston.

Be VERY CAREFUL not to gouge the cylinder wall while you are doing this.

I've had them so rusted in there this was the only way they would come out.

 

ya, like I said above, I used a whole can of pb blaster. It moved a little, but not a lot. I was kinda skeptical to use any kind of abrasive to get the rust off, mainly because im not sure how deep it wud gouge the metal. I got another can and just poured it into the cylinder and ima let it sit till tomorrow night. Ill try the sandpaper too, thats more than likely the main reason for it.

As far as the ridge at the top of the cylinder, I took out the other 7 with little/no probs, so i overruled that one.

 

That doesnt mean that it won't give you problems on the 8th and final piston. i had some pretty bad ridges in the 350 i rebuilt and i took a metal pipe, i wasn't going to reuse the stock pistons, and with a mellow hammer tapped the bottom side of the piston. came out for me but mine weren't no where near as rusty as yours probably are.

 

have you considered some heat?

 

Go to the local part store and loan / borrow/ buy a ridge reamer as mentioned....

And unless I'm missing something...

You've got the other 7 piston / rod assemblies OUT right?

Can you get the crank out / off the final rod w/o messing it up? Then you could just knock the piston / rod DOWN thru the block...

 

I've used diesel fuel to free up pistons before, but it takes a while to work. I had a stuck piston in a dodge 383. I let the cylinder sit full of diesel for a week, and it made it easier to pound it out (2x4 and a small sledge).

 

Coca cola works also! Well it did for me and a few of my mates! Haven't drunk it since then! If it can free rings off overnight, what does it do to your stomach?!! May be worth a try.

Andy.

 

Marvel Mystery oil. But I would recommend taking it to the machine shop and have them throw it in their hot tank.

 

Thanx a bunch for the replies guys.

I used another can of PB blaster, plus a ridge reamer. Got the sledge out and bar, and a few whacks later, out it came! didnt even gouge the cylinder wall or nething, just stuck as hell.

But believe me, I tried just bout all ur suggestions. In the end, i guess nuthin can beat good ole man power ......and PB blaster......

 

well if your getting it machined let the machine shop do it.That way if it screws up its not your fault
If you insist on trying to get it out fill the block with boiling hot water (seal off appropriate holes).that worked real well for me it let the cylinders expand enough so i could tap out the piston.I also had it loaded up with WD40 i think it was

 

I got out the crank and other piston/rods. When I took out the crank, I tried to punch the pistons thru the bottom towards where the crank was. But the way the block is machined, the mains actually come in towards the cylinder so you cant. Only way out is the way they came in! A little "Lesson Learned" I guess....