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choke and butterfly position

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Old Dec 7, 2004 | 07:30 AM
  #1  
phess11's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 966
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From: NE Ohio
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 305 (LG4)
Transmission: THM700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.23 non-LS
choke and butterfly position

My engine is not idling fast enough when cold. I have messed with the fast idle screw by the choke with no real results. What I noticed was that the choke completely closes the butterfly when it is cold (before you start). Is this correct, or should it be slightly open?

thanks,
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Old Dec 7, 2004 | 08:21 AM
  #2  
RB83L69's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Generally, the choke should close fully when cold (below 60° or so) with the engine not running; and the primary vacuum break diaphragm, at the front pass side of the carb, should pull the blade open slightly once the engine starts.

Make sure that the fast idle screw is actually contacting the fast idle cam; and that the vacuum break diaphragm works. You can push it on by hand, cover the hose fitting with your finger, and it should stay pushed in. If it retracts, it's bad. Once you're sure it's working, adjust it (bend the linkage) such that it cracks the choke blade open about ¼" when the car starts; and adjust it from there. If the car runs REAL rough and blows out black smoke when you try to accelerate, increase the vacuum break (larger gap); if it acts lean, like it stutters or hesitates when you give it gas, decrease it. It's a tuning adjustment, so there's no one "right" setting, although there is a factory spec that should at least be close if the motor is completely unmodified in any way.
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Old Dec 7, 2004 | 09:20 AM
  #3  
phess11's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 966
Likes: 2
From: NE Ohio
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 305 (LG4)
Transmission: THM700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.23 non-LS
Great info, thanks.

Now, I have some checking to do.
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