Hey guys. I built a 383 11:1 CR chevy with eddy victor junior heads, victor intake, 750 dblpumper, pro billit distributor, etc. It is a '88 Trans Am, which is daily driven. I just got he motor running using a set of 305 1 5/8" shorty headers, with single 3" exhaust and a junky y-pipe. Now that its running, I need to upgrade the exhaust over the winter.

I was told that these heads require a 1 7/8" primary tubes...but the only ppl. that offer these headers for that car are Lemons, which are pricey and I would have to get them shiped to Canada.

What about Hooker Supercomp LTs...they are 1 3/4" primaries, are full length headers, and equal lenght. I thik I'll be able to build a good y-pipe, that will have to go into a 3" Hooker catback. Those cars are a nightmare to build a dual setup, specially when daily driven. I could install an electric cutout after the Y-pipe, but....

What are your suggestions? Will the Hooker LTs work, or do I need to dump the cash on Lemons. The car has a mild solid roller cam and drives very well now on the street, but does lack a bit of power... I also have a 150-250 nitrous kit I have not used yet.

I used this exhaust because I had it from the previous 350 in this car. My other problem is that the car needs a new hood (harsh hood clerance, small 3" filter now), and some gears. The current tranny is a th350 with jw 10" converter and 3.27 gears......I have a built th700 waiting for a good converter and am gonna get some 3.73 gears.

Any other suggestions? Car works ok, but is kinda slugish for what it should be. I am thinking the bad exhaust, poor airflow and poor gear ratio are to blame...but its a tiny bit slower now then my 350 with rpm heads and flat tappet cam. Thanks.

Thanks.

 

Is it worth it to you to pay the cost for the big headers? If not just get the 1 3/4 and be happy.

 

I think I'll have to go with Hookers, I am just not wanting to chocke down that motor as much..... but I figure 1 3/4 would do.

 

Go as big as you can afford if your cam is 250 or larger at .050 and running a 110 degree or tighter spread and plan on running the exhaust all the time. The Hookers at $400 is good for the money, but Hedman headers has a set of 1.875” Hustlers 65170 that go for $600 at Summit. Gotta run a flange adapter, remote oil filter, and mini-starter though (which are no big deals) with the Hustlers though. If you’re budgeted,, you’ll have better results going with the Hookers and spending the extra $200 (that the Husters would have cost) on going as overkill as you can afford to spend on the rest of the exhaust.

 

Hmm, I didn't know about the new Headman headers. Nice! any pics or links?

I have a stock LT1 mini starter, but if that isn't enough, I'll get another one. Not a huge fan of remote oil filters, but its a possibility. Thanks

P.S. my solid roller is a 242/248 duration at .050 and 112 lsa. I am gonna run nitrous on it as well.

I am leaning towards the headmans, as long as they will bolt into the car with the above mentioned mods...like oil filter and starter. I also have a Moroso 6 quart pan for this car as well.

 

I put 1 3/4 inch primays on the 68 camaro, and I wish I would have spent the extra 200 for the 1 7/8 primay tubess----

later and

GB

rk

 

problem is...the third gen car itself is very unforgiving for the header/size problem. I am leaning towards the hooker lts, although i think those headman huslter 1 7/8" would be good, but not sure on fitment and streetability of those....

 

Your motor is not big enough to warrant 1 7/8" primaries, you'll be hurting more than helping with the set up you have. 1 3/4" will be perfect running into some true dual 3" pipes, 3.5" if you'd like, but I'd bet you will not notice any difference so long as a good muffler is used....ask how I know and I think mines just a wee bit bigger specs than your

As far as the 1 7/8" Hustlers you need to run the adapter plate that comes with them, the adapter plate needs to be hogged out by YOU!! they come with little 3/4" x 3/4" holes where the exhaust ports are, it's up to you to manually gasket match each port. Time consuming and kind of a cheap way out for Heddman, they could've at least got them close to race gasket specs and reccommended that part number when purchasing those headers.

Oil filter relocation kit-NOT NEEDED. You can run a standard heigth oil filter, NOT the 1qt capacity.

Mini starter is required, but ANYTIME runnng LT headers it should also just be purchased for more space in a confined area, that;s my opinion and I'm stickin to it.

There is the same amount of ground clearance with the hustler collectors as with my super comps.

Been there done that

 

Ok, lol, so you think the hookers would do fine??? You have more experience with it then me. Here is my exact situation:

I used castler 1 5/8" shorty headers and a small Y-pipe into a single 3" system. I had this exhaust on my 305, then on my 355. I think its too small for my 383 now...

I want to buy headers, but I want to buy them once. My motor will see 150-200 shot...so.

If you think hookers are enough, all the better, they are cheaper and easier to fit!!!!

 

The hookers will be plenty. You want your combo to work together great 90% of the time since your not going to be using nitrious 100% of the time. They will flow the additional gasses out even when your on the hit.

I'll know more next year once i get the 250 shot hooked up, but expecting low 10's high 9's through the pipes once it's tuned and max shot out of the box without traction is acheived.

But right now... your choking it The 1 5/8" shorties aint the big problem, its the Y into single 3" where it hurting you. Depening how your sitting for money/time, if there other things you need first, I would have them bend up some pipes to come right off the heard you have now so you can use true dual's for the time being. You could have them adapt from the 2.5" "collector" on the shorties into the 3" pipes, get your mufflers bought, then once youo get the LT. you could modify existing exhaust and reuse alot of the parts.

Or if you have the money, just get the headders and do this 1 time

 

I got money for the headers/exhaust now. What I was gonna do, is use a manderel bent Hooker 3" catback from my '94, use the hooker LTs and a custom y-pipe to make the exhaust for the '88.

I would LOVE to run duals, but the car is street driven 90% of the time, and it has koni shocks/struts and lowering springs. I thought of running a cutout...but....

Maybe something dual can be achived..

 

IHI. The problem with Caslers is there not quite 1 5/8's and there flanges are even smaller.

Yes the biggest problem is the Y-pipe also, LT's with a custom Y-pipe would be best bet IMHO.

 

I would do whatever you could to make the custom Y pipe merge into a 4" single.

 

..yeah, could use a mufflex setup for sure!

 

Think I lost track of whereI was post'n what, seems I posted the same reponse somewhere else too

If you were'nt lowered running true duals is no problem, but I assume you have the low pro tire as well so yeah, you need to keep'r tucked. I remember when i used to drag on stuff, boy did that suck!!

Guy at the track took this shot just out of the gate, but you can kinda see the mufflers hangin-sight down the door handle.

With the 28" tires, loaded full of fuel, and a passenger I have yet to hit anywhere in town that I used to when a "muffler shop" did my last exhaust. We spent about 2 hrs laying under the car trying to keep it tucked up as high as possible and as short a run as possible. When it's sitting level on the ground you dont even know it's there

 

This just give you a rough idea of how the LT's look in perspective to things underneath, I dont have any side shots showing placement though

 

Yeah, looks good, thanks for the pics man.

See, the trouble is its hard to decide where to draw the line between a canyon carver and a drag car. I like BOTH!!!!

I would like to make it do both, but it's rough when it comes to this exhaust issue. I have 26" tall ET Steets and 25.8" tall street tires....nightmare for this, lol.

 

Up there I think you just need to do a front ski conversion and rear rubber track with carbides

To bad there is'nt a perfect answer to the solution of wanting your cake and eating it too. I wonder once technology comes along if they'll be able to make a dual purpose type set-up using the new shocks they have that are magnet controlled.

 

lol, so I can go from ******* to a homie in a puch of a button!

 

The trouble you might have is with the width and location of the exhaust port. I think the VicJrs have the same exit location as my track1s. It causes the right side ports to touch on the front crossmember on cyl pipe 2 and also touchs on the lower control arm mount for pipe 8. Get ready with your die grinder.... .lots.

long tubes-to 3" headpipes-to 4" mufflex.

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