85 bird, bout 126k. Heading to my parents house the other day about 4:00 pm (maybe 105 degrees) and it stalled outta the parking lot, but fired right back up. Hmm...never done that before and I shrug it off. 15 plus minutes worth of city driving and I get to Mom and Dads no prob. Leave mom and dads to go home, bout 9:30 at night (call it 85-90 out side) and part way home, maybe ten minutes from my parents it stalls...but then fires back up for not even a block and stalls. No joy this time, its dark..Im pissed and tired at this point, so I just call a ride. Back the next morning and she fires right up. Now I am getting confused. Back to Mom and Dads for the day, drive it home and when I get there dies in my complex..15 minutes driving time max from parents, and I say ok...hope she fires in the morning. No joy this morning, crank it over and it acks like a dead battery, on the charger that goes for the day. So I'll look at it tomorrow afternoon when I get home from work.

So what I have done...not much cuase it seems I know jack about cars.

Checked the fuel filters, looked ok..changed them anyway.
Battery on the charger.

I have an exhaust leak under the hood, I can hear it and could smell it when I popped the hood. I have the tubing for the air filter up to the headlight so I dont think I am smoking her out..but

So I am thinking:
Fuel pump
ECM
Coil?

not throwing any codes, alt looks to be putting out ok by the gauge. Did notice the trany light flickering on and off (almost like a short) this morning when I turn the key to the on positsion, other lights were on ok. Temp is under 220 and all fluids are ok.

I am really at a loss at how to T-shoot this with the somewhat randomness.

Anything I have left out you want to know just post and I'll see what I can come up with.

Thanks

Bob3 and the poor Blue Beast

UPDATE:

I had some of the electical stuff checked out: Ignition Module (deal under the distributer cap), coil, batt. New Cap and Rotor cause it was close to time anyway.

New problem, not sure if it might be causing the other or not. When I went to put the neg. cable back on the battery it pretty much tried to melt the 'post' and did a good job at that (congrats maybe in order for my first attempt at welding, but prob not the best way to start out). So I am wondering what is able to draw that much current with out blowing a fuse, I would guess the starter would be it but not sure. I just had the starter check a couple weeks ago and it checked out ok so I'm really not sure.

Should I just pull all the fuses and see what happens tring to connect the cables up again?

Tired and wants his ride back.

Bob3

[This message has been edited by bfoleyiii (edited June 13, 2001).]

 

Is your car TPI, carbed, TBI? Doesn't really sound like a coil to me, that normally just dies. Does the service engine soon light flash when you start the car?(12?)

 

Carb

and didnt see it throw a service engine code.
But I will verify that tomorrow since my guess is it is going to start for at least a few minutes.

Bob3

 

It should flash a 12 when you start it. If it doesn't, your computer might be unhappy with you, like you suspected.

Where are you leaking? That could definately cause you to stall..is it stalling at idle?

 

My jeep was doing the same thing!!! After the 10th time it broke down I was so pissed at spend money that I was out kicking the piece of junk. It ended up being the O2 sensor. Apparently when the SUV got warm it would just shut the motor off. Sometimes you could get it to go right away and you would be fine. Sometimes I could start it a couple of times and it would only go for a sec. Usually when it did this it didn't want to start again though. I drove it for 6 months like this. If you let it sit and cool down it would fire right back up and you wouldn't know anything was wrong.

 

Could be the pickup coil inside the distributer...

 

Check your O2 sensor and make sure its not fouled. Next thing to do is to check your fuel pressure....I had a similar prob and it turned out to be a faulty fuel pump.

------------------
92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops

Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps, MacEwen white-face guages
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, 3.42 gears w/Torsen posi

 

If you changed to an electric pump it might be getting hot and vapor locking. Go back to a mechanical pump or move the electric pump where it will stay cool.