Alright -

Thanks to some excellent input from board members, it looks like I need to have my EGR sensor fixed (or replaced), but I am a little nervous....

I know the actual EGR sensor is cheap (I heard $35), but getting to it is a real bitch....

My dad talked with a couple mechanics, and niether could give an estimate on what it will cost to get in there and fix it...which frankly, I don't get...surely they must have some idea on how long it takes to get to that thing....3-4 hrs tops?

Obviously, they need to get past the plenum to get to the EGR...my guess is they are gonna charge me by the hour on this one...

Do you guys have any idea on how much this might run me?

Anyone ever had this kind of work done on their car before?

Anyone know how to do this on their own?

Recommendations?

Money is not really an issue (seeing as how this HAS to be done), I just want the god damn thing fixed, but I need some kind of idea on how much this will cost...my dad seemed to think $300 or more...which is crazy...please tell me it will be less than that...

Thanks to this, I am going to have to hold off on putting a new exhaust system on my car...$*#%*#



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Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto
Additional:'92 Z-28 Rims, T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Edelbrock Suspension Kit, Edelbrock Catback Exhaust (Chrome tips), K&N Air Filter

 

where are you located in Cali?

they're easy to change man.. if you're within a half hour i could probably help you

gimme a call, 661-252-1707 and ask for Colin

 

IROC,

If you're only spending $35.00 for a replacement EGR valve, I'm guesing it isn't a genuine AC/Delco part and doesn't come with the temperature sensor.

Don't shoot yourself in the foot on this one - get ONLY the original part. Put in cut-rate parts whereever else you want, but an aftermarket EGR will only continue to give you errors. Apparently the spring and oriface calibration are tough for the aftermarketers to duplicate, and there are numerous posts indicating trouble with the cheapie aftermarket or "universal" EGR valves in TPI applications.

Do the work yourself and save the difference in parts cost.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Ok, I just checked some websites, and it looks more like an new (quality) EGR is gonna run $75 - $100....which isn't all that bad....what gets me is the installation..


I am by no means a mechanic, don't really enjoy fiddling with my car...so I really need a mechanic to do it (thanks for the offer Colin, but I live in Northern, Ca).

To tell you the truth, I am not sure if the EGR is broken, or just unhooked, so I might be able to have it re-connected...I am not sure..

I just want to get it fixed so my car runs better and I don't get that stupid "Service Engine Soon" light coming on ever day I drive home from work...

Really appreciate all this help guys, thanks a million!!

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Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto
Additional:'92 Z-28 Rims, T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Edelbrock Suspension Kit, Edelbrock Catback Exhaust (Chrome tips), K&N Air Filter

 

My opinion is if you don't/can't do it yourself, AND the mechanics you've spoken too don't have a clue about the time involved to do the job, then I'd suggest an appointment with a GM dealer, in about two minutes they can give you an accurate quote from their labor manual.

 

Nonetheless, it seems completely silly to me to pay someone to do your EGR. Getting the plenum off is absolute gravy. I don't know if you have to take the runners off to wrench the EGR bolts, but even still, they're not that hard.

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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
LB9 4L60 GU2 G80 - stock, soon to be sleeper
-=ICON Motorsports=-

- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die

 

Anymore advice?

------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto
Additional:'92 Z-28 Rims, T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Edelbrock Suspension Kit, Edelbrock Catback Exhaust (Chrome tips), K&N Air Filter

 

IROC,

Make certain the electrical connector is plugged into the EGR solenoid. The solenoid valve should be located to the right of your distributor. The wires in the connector should be gray and pink w/black stripe (tracer).

The photo shows the location of the solenoid valve:



Make certain the EGR solenoid valve has a vacuum line connected to two of the three ports. One of the lines should be connected to a manifold vacuum source and teh other to the EGR valve itself. Check your underhood VECI label for the vacuum routing. It should be affixed to teh radiator support or underside of the hood and look something like this:



If the vacuum lines are connected correctly, make sure the electrical connector to the EGR temperature diagnostic sensor is connected. If can be difficult to access, but is located under the plenum and looks like this:



If everything is corectly connected, either one of the components has failed or the EGR valve base and/or passages in the intake manifold are plugged with carbon deposits. This is not unusual, and can easily be cleaned away with a small scraper, vacuum cleaner, and stiff brush. DO NOT use any solvents to clean the EGR valve base since any solvent that reaches the pilot control diaphragm in the EGR valve can dissolve it and render the valve useless.

If you feel ambitious, and have a good T-40 Torx bit and some upper plenum gaskets, you can remove the plenum fairly easily and inspect the situation. I have more images of the exact book procedure if you aren't certain, or you can invest a few bucks in a repair manual to guide you along the way. As mentioned, the task isn't difficult, but can take several hours.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

This was the first repair I ever did to my car! lol, you can imagine I was nervous! It turned out it is a very simple matter! I actually took the runners off too (That was some extra work!) To get the plenum off is 8 torx bolts. Pull all of 'em you may have to hit the plenum a bit using a block of wood and a hammer (so you don't mark it up) Don't hit it too hard, just enough to break it loose then the EGR is simple, a few bolts and the temp diagnostic switch and thats it. Use new gaskets on the runners when re-assembing That's it, oh yeah, one more thing, watch the edges at the top of the runners after getting the plenum off, you don't want to mark them up, and they are sharp and will cut you easily...cover 'em w/ a rag, I learned that the hard way!