Is there any special procedure for breaking in moly rings. i was talking to a mechanic who has built many engines and i told him i was using moly rings in all the lts i rebuild, he said he has never had good luck with moly rings. ive personaly never had a problem with them but... is it true thay are harder to break in and seat right? Whats the proper procedure? i always just run non detergent for 100 miles then run syntec.

 

i alwasy though they were easier to break in, or break in faster. about all i've used since high school and i've been out of high school for a while now.

 

If the cyl walls are prepped properly, the only procedure is to start the motor up and drive it.

I've built a certain number of motors with moly rings, and some others with other things. They all worked quite well by using the right technique with them. In the case of moly rings, it's a good round cyl wall (torque plate hone is best) with a relatively smooth finish; they like about a 320-400 grit stone.

The factory uses moly rings these days, and synthetic OE fill fluid. The motor in my car was built and broken in that way. Seems to be just fine. I haven't used non-detergent oil for break-in since ..... well, since only just a very few hours after getting out of high school. Several hours ago now.

 

hahah.. ok thanks rb

 

total seal makes a product called quick seat that work really well.Its a green graphite looking powder that you rub on the cylinder walls (no oil) then just lightly lubricate the rings.Apperantly it seats them right away

 

I've been told not to use synthetic with moly rings until 10,000 miles or so because it may cause the cylinder walls to glaze.

RB83L69, have you had a chance to take a peek at your cylinder walls since you broke your engine in? I'm curious as to whether or not the above statement is true.

 

No, no peek; I just drive it every day. About 40,000 miles so far.