My car stopped starting a few days ago, and I decided it was likely the spark plugs. I took them out and they were all carbon fouled. After I changed the spark plugs, the car will now start, but will stall right after it starts. If I hold the RPM's up enough, it will run, and I even was able to drive it to Taco Bell by switching into neutral when I applied the brakes. Did I mess something up, or were the spark plugs not the problem? I have been searching for the last 20 minutes and nothing seems to help.

 

Any codes??

Perhaps changing the cap and rotor is in order also, if the plugs were in such poor condition.

 

It didn't have any before I started and I disconnected the battery for safety's sake while working with the spark plugs, so I lost any codes it might have developed. Nothings coming up now.

 

sounds like timing to me

 

If the timing was right before, its probably right now. It doesnt magically change itself. Dont go messing with that, because you will only make your troubleshooting worse.

Change the cap, rotor, spark plug wires. If the plugs were that bad, then its probably time for a full tune up. Makes it a lot easier to troubleshoot when everything is in working order. Have you ever replaced the coil?

 

Timing?? The timing gods must have cursed him with a loose dizzy.

Sounds like fuel off the cuff, but state of tune is always important. Feels like I've said that a few dozen times in the last month. :shrug: Once a proper base is established, troubleshooting becomes more accurate.

 

Just a question it sounds as if the firing order is wrong, you are only firing on so many cylinders not all 8. The other components are the coil and module itself. Recheck your firing order and hope this helps

 

the order is 1 ,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 for a V8 CHEVY 1 should be d-side of block if you are looking at MOT 1 on the cap is most likely to the right then down one, you can crank the cyl 1 to (T D C) pull the plug to cheak the pull cap off where ever the rotor is, is the #1on the cap

 

Either that or a vacuum leak.

Check the vacuum lines first... ALL of them, but especially the ones coming from the plenum (or intake manifold if you aren't TPI)

 

Checking the firing order now, I'll post back when I get some more information for you. This morning I had to drive it to take my girlfriend to work, and it idled great, then when I restarted it, it went back to the stalling...

If anyone can post any tips about the vacuum lines, I'm still learning all of this so I'm not sure which are which yet.

 

Sounds like a vacuum line is off/broken.Open the hood. Look at the small rubber and plastic lines that go here and there, mostly originating at the intake manifold. Find the disconnected or broken one and hook it back up or replace it. If you can't find where it goes, look at your sticker on top of the radiator that shows them all. Pretty simple really.

 

Also make sure the TPS is connect good. I had a broken lock tab on mine and it would jiggle loose occasionally and give very similar symptoms. I agree on checking the vacuum lines, for a loose distributor bolt that would allow it to shift timing, and the firing order.

Good Luck, and please let us know the final solution!

 

Alright. Worked on it today with a friend who knows quite a bit more than me. Firing order was correct. Cap and Rotor, while they could probably be replaced, were fine. Everyone who voted vacuum leak, give yourself a hand! There were a few, and there's still the Thermac deal but this seems to be really busted. (Can that be removed if I was to put in a manual choke?) But now she's purring again! All I need to do is put on my new exhaust and I'll be set until spring when it warms up a bit.

Unless something else breaks.

Thanks a lot everyone!

Chris