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Rocker Arms Keep Coming Loose!!!

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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 10:32 AM
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snakedoctor1's Avatar
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From: Crossett, Arkansas
Car: 1989 Iroc-z & 1991 RS
Engine: 350 L98 & 355 carburated
Transmission: 700r4 & 5 speed
Rocker Arms Keep Coming Loose!!!

I need help with this problem. My rocker arms are rattling and there are a couple that keep coming off no matter how hard I tighten them. Is there anyone who can help me with this problem
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 10:40 AM
  #2  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
What rockers? What nuts?
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 10:40 AM
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Did you use new nylon locks or did you re-use the old ones?
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 11:00 AM
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From: Crossett, Arkansas
Car: 1989 Iroc-z & 1991 RS
Engine: 350 L98 & 355 carburated
Transmission: 700r4 & 5 speed
I reused the old ones, not sure what kind they are.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 11:16 AM
  #5  
kevinc's Avatar
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Couple of things come to mind:

1.) If you're using stock type nuts, and they're really coming loose, just get a set of replacements.

2.) If your heads have pressed-in rocker studs, it's possible the studs are pulling out. This is usually the case if the valvesprings have been upgraded to anything stiffer than factory spec.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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snakedoctor1's Avatar
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From: Crossett, Arkansas
Car: 1989 Iroc-z & 1991 RS
Engine: 350 L98 & 355 carburated
Transmission: 700r4 & 5 speed
I figured out what it was. The pressed in rocker studs are coming out. How do I fix that? Can I do it myself or do I have to have a shop do it?
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 12:15 PM
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88IROC350TPI's Avatar
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From: Pitman, NJ
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
you could pin them, but I'd take them off and have a shop drill and tap them for screw-in studs...
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 12:41 PM
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From: bayville, nj
i'd agree. once you get to this point with the studs, forget about getting the proper torque on them.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 02:10 PM
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snakedoctor1's Avatar
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From: Crossett, Arkansas
Car: 1989 Iroc-z & 1991 RS
Engine: 350 L98 & 355 carburated
Transmission: 700r4 & 5 speed
Ok fellas, I have bought a screw in type stud and a tap and dye set to fix the problem. Now I need to know how to get the old pressed in stud all the way out.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 02:33 PM
  #10  
Cooper's Avatar
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From: Felton, Pa
Car: '89 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
slide hammer'll get 'em out of there but there may be a more graceful way I'm not aware of. Maybe put a nut on with a flat washer and try to gently pry from both sides.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 02:36 PM
  #11  
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From: Michigan
Car: 83 Camaro
Engine: 350
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just get a buncha washers and use a nut and keep tighening...thats how i did my heads
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 02:41 PM
  #12  
Cooper's Avatar
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From: Felton, Pa
Car: '89 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Originally posted by BeNnYBooPy
just get a buncha washers and use a nut and keep tighening...thats how i did my heads
see I knew there was a more graceful way
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 02:54 PM
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Just make sure to use grade 8 nuts and washers, or you'll likely strip the nuts.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 04:14 PM
  #14  
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Originally posted by snakedoctor1
Ok fellas, I have bought a screw in type stud and a tap and dye set to fix the problem. Now I need to know how to get the old pressed in stud all the way out.
That will probably throw off you valve train geometry, on that rocker. The bottom of screw in stud is ment to sit on a milled surface. It will probably sit up too high.

Maybe someone else, who knows their stuff can verify what I believe to be correct.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 04:28 PM
  #15  
Streetiron85's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
You can use the original rocker ***** stacked up on each other along with a rocker nut to pull the studs. That's the easy part though.
Thre screw in studs should be installed by a machine shop.
Not that it's impossible to do it by yourself, but it's hard to get them aligned by hand. In addition to that, the stud boss needs to be milled flat and square to the stud.
Of course the heads need to be removed and disassembled to do that.
Look on some of the cam companies online tech pages and there's info on that.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 06:11 PM
  #16  
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From: iowa
Car: 91 formula
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-5
you can install your own screw in studs, but you have to use the ones without the hex on them if you don't want to take the heads off to a machine shop. Pull the studs with washers or rocker *****, I usually run a die down the stud so I have a longer threaded area to pull with. There is a tool that is about $25 to help align the tap and also is useful when pulling studs, I've known people that have gotten away without using one but It's a good idea. Also remember to dump the coolant before you pull, there's coolant under the studs, use sealer or loctite when installing the new ones and a strong magnet to catch debris from tapping is a must also.
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