Can someone please list the steps needed to do an oil change..I'd like to start doin them myself

 

Works best on a warm engine, but lift the car just enough so you can get under it and properly support it with jackstands. Unscrew the drain bolt. Don't lose that guy. Unscrew the oil filter and let it drain itself out too. Fill up the new oil filter with some new oil, usually takes about 1/2 quart. Put the new filter on and hand tighten it, and screw the drain bolt back in. Lower the car and put a total of 5.5 quarts into the engine (usually driver's side valve cover). Fire it up and you're ready to go.

 

Thanks for info

Guess I better go buy some ramps and an oil drain pan.

 

if your car wont fit up the ramps just use a little bit of a 2x4 and drive up that to make the incline less steep. However, most cars are fine on ramps. I prefer a jack though, smaller and faster.

 

I usually put 5 quarts in my v8's... I'm pretty sure a v6 won't take 5.5. Also I'd let the oil pan almost completely drain before removing the old filter to limit the mess.

 

You'll need a filter wrench to get the old filter off. Don't forget that. On a V8 Camaro it's the "large diameter" type. On the V6 engines I seem to recall it's the "small diameter" type. There's basically only 2 diameters of oil filter wrenches so the guy at the parts counter will know what you're talking about.

When you install the new filter remember 2 things (very important):

1. Put some oil on the rubber o-ring with your finger before you screw it on. Just a thin smear for lubrication so it doesn't "grab" onto the metal when you screw it on.

2. Tighten the oil filter ONLY 3/4 OF A TURN FROM WHEN THE GASKET JUST BEGINS TO CONTACT THE FILTER HOUSING. No more. Definitely DON'T tighten it with the filter wrench. Filters go on MUCH easier than they come off. Spin it down until you feel the gasket just start to make contact and then tighten BY HAND 3/4 of a turn more from there. It will NOT feel like it bottoms out against anything like tightening down a bolt where it just suddently stops.

When you start the motor up after changing the oil WATCH THE OIL PRESSURE GAGUE. It will sit around zero for a few seconds and then suddenly "jump" up to whatever your normal oil pressure is. 5-10 seconds at the most.

After the oil pressure has come up and the engine is running normally for a minute of so shut it off and RECHECK the oil level again. It'll probably read a little lower than where you set it because it has filled in all the little nooks and crannys inside the engine and new filter. Top it off again as needed.

 

Someone told me long ago NOT to use ramps when changing oil.
Their reasoning being that with the car on an incline not all of the oil would properly drain out.
I've always put the entire car up because of this.

Have I been wasting time ?

My car is far too low for my ramps anyway, even with a 2x4 ramp ramp.

 

You don't have to fill up the oil filter before installing it do you? I've never done this. I'm sure you can just get by with adding the oil on the top that the filter would hold and be just fine.

Damon's methond is pretty much how I do it.

 

You don't have to fill up the oil filter first, but that just means that it will take longer for the oil pressure to come up when you start the engine. I always dump some oil in the filter before I put it on. I'd rather not run without oil pressure for as short a time as possible.
Also be sure that the oil filter gasket from the old filter isn't still stuck to the engine before you put the new filter on. Two gaskets will cause a nice leak.
Just to repeat what Damon said. Do not use the oil filter wrench to tighten the new filter. It would be extremely difficult to get off later if you do.

 

In addition to what has already been stated, there are some other things I like to do:

• Clean the oil filter base thouroughly before installing the new filter;
• Clean the drain plug of any accumulated sludge, and inspect/clean the sealing washer or gasket;
• Clean the bottom of the oil pan, transmission bell or inspection cover, and the area around the timing cover to make any leaks more apparent and easier to trace;
• Clean off the steering and suspension grease fittings, and pump a few shots of fresh grease to each component. Monitor the lower ball joint grease bag to be sure you are not overfilling and splitting the bag;
• Upon lowering the vehidle and filling the crankcase, check all other fluid levels and inspect the hoses and belt(s). Top off other fluid reserviors as necessary;
• Be absolutely certain the replacement oil filter is not painted orange.

 

 

You may also not want to use ramps because they are cheap crud made from stamped sheet metal, and they are about as safe as using a sinter block. I have seen a ramp that had collapsed.

A heavy car will flatten one right out.

 

and after you've done all that and the car is on the ground, start it up and take a look, make sure nothing is leaking under there.

 

I'd like to add one thing:

Be sure the sealing washer is on the drain plug before you re-install it. Inspect it and replace it as necessary.

 

Forget the ramps and don't overtighten the drain plug either - everything else has been covered.

 

I use the "plastic" Rhino ramps (12000 pound capacity) and highly recommend them. They are much safer and stronger than the crappy metal ones and will never collapse under a 3rd gen. Hell, they hold my full size truck without complaint. They are safer than jack stands IMO. Pep Boys and Walmart carry them. They even have a stepped version for low cars. For the filter, I only use the Delco filters. I used to use the extra capacity PF-35, but it was replaced by the 1218 (I think) filter. Don't forget to lube the gasket and prefill the filter.

 

Another addition I've been doing ever since I started working on cars... After I've put oil in the filter, screwed it on and filled the crankcase (not forgetting the drain plug!!), I never just fire up the car and let it run till the oil pressure builds. I always let it turn over till it fires, then I shut it off. I repeat this until oil pressure builds as soon as the engine catches. I know it seems overkill, but 5 - 10 seconds running without oil pressure can do more damage than I care for.

 

haha good one. had a nice laugh there lol.

 

Make sure the old filter gasket comes off with the old filter, makes a hell of a leak if you get two of them on there.

I have never filled the filter before reinstalling, of course I didn't "prime" the oil pump when I first fired the engine either.

For what it is worth, be glad that these cars are cheap to service. Did an oil change on my pickup last night and oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, and 4 gallons of oil came up to $101 at Napa

 

You mean just he parts were $101, or did the price include service?

Either way, I just want to say wow!!! FOUR GALLONS!!!! You must have a 20 quart oil pan or something.

 

I use my dad's old metal ramps; those things are TOUGH. I don't know where I'll find a set if I ever want my own tho; all I see is those stupid plastic ramps.

Tip; if you roll your car up onto ramps, don't just throw the ramps in front of the tires. Kneel down directly in front of each tire and line the ramp up "straight" with the tire.

Tip #2, get an old hand-held vanity mirror. As you drive the car up on the ramp, hold the mirror out your driver's side window so you can see the tire and ramp- that way you know when to STOP!

Required: BLOCK THE REAR WHEELS AFTER THE CAR'S ON THE RAMP!

Required #2: Don't forget to remove the wheel chocks when you try to back the car off the ramps

I fill my oil filter with a 1/2 quart of oil; takes a few seconds and can't hurt. I also changed my filter for years without doing that; I've got 277,000 miles on my original motor, all dinosaur oil (no synthetic), so I doubt it matters- as long as the oil's clean and the filter's new.

And you'll never get all the old oil out; I've heard of guys pulling over a curb and trying to get a drain pan under the car by lying in the street and reaching under the car- man that's a lot of work just to get a few drips of old oil. If you do regular oil changes you'll be fine.

 

Just the supplys cost $101.

It holds 15 quarts.

 

I went to jiffy lube once and they wanted 35 bucks with tax and everything for a oil change.What a rip off ,and they give you ****ty oil and filter.I think jiffy lube makes all their money off women,no offense.I get k/n oil filter and 5 quarts of oil that I like for around 24$ at the autozone and change the oil myself.As the old saying goes," You want a job done right you gotta do it yourself"

 

funny how you mention ****ty oil and filter, then K&N oil filter in the very next sentence... :lala:

I spend $2.45 on a Delco filter and then $8-10 for Castrol Syntec Blend.

And I have a serious question... Why the F--K would anyone buy oil at autozone??? WalMart carries the same types of oil for far cheaper than any parts store.

 

I buy oil at Autozone only because they're the only ones around here that carry ACDelco filters and Wal-mart is about 10 miles further down the road. Also, the Walmart(s) around here aren't that much cheaper than AZ and don't always have the oil I want in stock. Other than oil and filters that's all I buy at AutoZone, thier parts are complete and total garbage.

 

Whats wrong with FRAM oil filters?

 

Go here:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Search the Forum for "FRAM".....and you'll have a lot of reading material to choose from (and just as many opinions).

 

I get in the zone cuz my homey works there and its a block from my pad ,and I hate wal marts lines.

 

I'm guessing the truck is diesel!

I agree w/Cooper; usually the discount stores around me (walmart kmart etc) sell out of oil fast, and they just have cases of 30 weight lying around. That's one of those stores you've gotta go to every day to see if they restocked...

 

Agreed. Walmart is relatively cheaper, plus you can get the 5 quart jugs, which I prefer, but it's a crap shoot whether or not they will be in stock. And you can't always get the same stuff at every location. Plus the lines suck.

 

I don't get anything at walmart anymore. I've been walmart free for the last 6 months or so.

 

Congrats! I try, but they've put just about everyone else out of business.

--------------
My suggestion for the original poster is to go out and buy the Chilton's and Haynes manuals for your car. Best place to start.

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Vader, keyboard damnit!

 

.......Sometimes I use a cheap quart of oil and let it drain through after the oil change. It helps get a little more crap out of the bottom of the pan. It drains black and then runs clear.......Zapr.

 

Don't waste money on synthetic "blends", go fully synthetic or just keep putting in the cheap stuff. If you do decide to start using synthetic you shouldn't switch back (unless you blow a rear main 200miles from home). For the money you'll save running cheap oil you could probably buy a new engine within a couple years. Of course synthetic is dyno proven 5hp and longer life.

 

must... resist...

 

all resistance is futile

 

whats wrong with blends? seems like it has a longer life and maintains its viscosity.

and I think the saying that if you go synthetic you shouldnt switch back is a myth.

 

Are you sure you really want to change your own oil? I am not a negative person, Really! but you just got 30 responses for how to change your oil. Once you get it changed now you have to do something with it. Think of all of the nasty stuff that can happen with 5 quarts of used motor oil and a filter between your house and a deposit station. Thats if you don't just keep it in your garage for awhile for when you "get around to it." or pour it down your fence post. And don't forget to put that plug back in before you refill it and wow, five quarts of oil on the garage floor. Has anybody ever seen that? I know you have... Break it down; 5 quarts motor oil-$9.00. one good filter, $7.00. You'll be asking yourself why you didn't spend the $30.00... Please don't get angry all you do-it-yourselfer's, it was meant for fun

 

Yeah,I admit I have 3 full buckets of used oil sitting in my garage but Ill get around to it some day.Thats the only buisness I have with jiffy lube,I drop off my used oil there for free.

 

The 3800 series II engine takes 4.4 quarts on the nuts. Also, sears sells a cool oil filter removal tool, its a 3 fingered claw that goes on a socket wrench. If it wont come off the claw will get it. I work at tires plus doing oil changes and tires etc. and that was one of the best purchases I ever made. Check underneath your car while it is running so there is pressure to show if there is a leak on the plug or filter. The other 3.1 and 3.4 L engines usually take between 4.2-4.4 quarts, depending on the sludge build up. Just my .02$

 

I've only ever seen one of those in my life and have been looking for one ever since with no luck. They certainly do work good. I even checked sears. Is it a cat. order only?

If the filter won't spin off easily by hand I usually use a pair of channel locks. Works pretty good.

 

No, was on the shelf. Very neat. Ask them if you could order one.

 

SEARS IT IS!!! I've been trying to find one of those for a few months.

 

Hmm since we are on the oil subject, what is the difference between the regular filters and the High Mileage oil filters (for cars over 75k)? How can a filter... filter differently. Been curious about that.

 

The "High Mileage" filters undergo at least two separate processes in their manufacture.

The first is called "imprinting". In this process, the outer filter housing undergoes a completely different process from "normal" filters in the production process. This "high mileage" filter shell is subjected to an offset ink/paint transfer process that creates a finished product with a completely different set of identifying numbers, and probably some additional graphics that identfy it as a "high mileage" filter. The box or carton in which the filter is packaged is like subjected to the same process.

The second process is called "marketing", whereby the manufacturers and supply chain undertake special steps to convince unsuspecting and otherwise uninformed purchasers that the particular item is better suited for use in applications where the engine and/or vehicle have accumulated mileage above some carefully (not arbitrarily) determined level. By careful calculation, that level of mileage is determined by market researchers. Given the average age and mileage of the average registered vehicle, marketers can easily determine the particular mileage number that a large percentage of vehicles would have achieved. Coupled with the fact that most vehicle warrantys have expired by 72,000 miles, owners of such vehicles may be enticed to use a product that may not meet the warranty requirements of the original manufacturer.

It is completely possible that some of these "high mileage" filters are different in other details. It may be that some of them actually use a filter paper that has a different (probably larger) filtration rating (in microns, single pass), so that more oil is allowed to flow through carrying larger contamination particles. This would insure that oil flows through the filter instead of bypassing it, and would also insure that more engine wear would tend to occur.

In short, avoid the advertising hype. That applies to "high mileage" oils and filters, as well as many other labels. Stick with the manufacturer's recommended filter. That's what got the engine through the warranty period in the first place. I've run GM engins to well beyond 200,000 miles on AC filters, and never had a lubrication problem. That was long before any of these "high mileage" products existed. If you really want to know more about what works for high mileage engines, ask some of the members who have accumulated 300K on the odometer without so much as pulling a valve cover.

If you perform some research, you can take the risk and experiment with other types of filters, but understand what you are installing before you purchase it. Many aftermarket filters are just as good, or superior to the original filters. Your research may indicate who actually manufactures the filters for the OEMs, and the other labels that are common in the aftermarket.

One thing to remember is that no OEM recommends using FRAM filters any more. Chrysler was the last one, and they stopped their affilliation with FRAM back in the early '80s.

 

It lightens your wallet differently.

Don't fall for all the hype out there in auto parts. Most of them are designed to sell parts at a higher margin, not to do anything different about your car.

 

Thats pretty much what i figured. Thanks guys!

 

Check out this marketing...what kind of driver wouldn't fall into any of these categories?

 

is that a 3rd gen in the second pic down?

Looks to me like camaro taillights but its a bit hard to tell with the crap quality picture.

 

It's a Camaro but what's with all the French?