Heres what I picked up...
Rebuilt/balanced 350, forged lightweight TRW pistons, TRW rods, crank might be cast or forged, dont know for sure yet, has a Lingenfelter hydraulic flat tappet cam 212/224, 442/465 or around there. Has around 40K miles on it. Checked a couple bearings, they looked decent for the amount of miles. Im not too familiar with Lingenfelter or TRW. Are they decent parts? Also, what springs should I get for that cam?

 

TRW pistons are a good heavy-duty replacement; better than stock. Not a racing piece, but a good solid replacement for street use.

Don't know about any TRW rods. Maybe they're re-sized and boxed under the TRW name for sale in parts stores. Virtually all rods are forged.

That's not a "Lingenfelter" cam; it's an ancient generic design you can get from everywhere for dirt cheap. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=SUM%2D1103 See if the specs look familiar. It's OK, a decent cam for a street motor, but nothing special. At least it's not overkill somehow. Modern cams will produce far more power with the same gas mileage and vacuum.

Cast crank = very thin parting line down the center; forged crank = very wide parting line (like ¾" wide) that looks like it's been ground on. Typical cast 350 cranks would have a casting number ending in 442.

With things like that, the value is in how they work; if it runs good, it is good. If it doesn't, it isn't. Hopefully it will work out for you!!

 

$500 for a 40K bottem end sounds a bit high but if thats all you could find then I guess its good. I'd suggest you freshen it up a bit before you slap it in your car for under a $100 it could have nice new rings and bearings.

 

How do you know its not a Lingenfelter cam? I could be wrong about those specs. This is a street car so I dont think I should bother buying another cam when this one works and is already broken in. Spring recomendations?

 

Did you look at the link? Did it look familiar?

If you don't like that one, how about this one? http://www.melling.com/products/melling_catalog.pdf Do a search for "22203" on the document. Maybe it's that one instead. It might not be a "Summit" cam; it might be a Melling, or a Wolverine, or a Speed Pro, or an AMotion, or maybe even Edelbrock (although they don't currently offer the one with the larger exhaust lobe like I seem to recall from days gone by, only the one with that intake lobe on both intake and exhaust... the 2103). Doesn't matter, it's the same cam, no matter whose box the builder took it out of, and what they paid for it. Believe it or not, you can pay more than twice for those old cams if you buy them as an Edlebrock, compared to what you can get it for if you buy it from Summit or Melling.

If that's not what it is, then..... well, maybe it's something else. All I have to go on is what you posted.

But, it's not a "bad" cam, it's just not a "winner" or "state of the art" or "optimum" or anything like that either. There's nothing "wrong" with it. There's no particular reason to jump directly to replacing it, if you're satisfied with unexceptional performance; even though the cam is about the cheeeepest part of a motor to change out to match it to your intended application. That's fine too.

For valve springs to go with it, any of the cam mfrs' entry-level springs will work fine. Comp, Crane, Lunati, Crower, etc.; the Comp 981 for example. The cam is so mild (if of course it's the one you posted) that even new stock springs like the "Z28" ones from GM would be adequate. Of course, if it's some other cam besides the one you posted, then you might need different springs too.

 

I can't really agree with that... I don't think you're giving TRW's enough credit. Sure they're heavy compared to others but I'd say they're very strong and work great in a budget "race" motor. I know guys pushing silly amounts of nitrous (300+HP) with TRW's without problems - one guy around here cracked his block in half (which was filled to the water pump with filller) on nitrous and the TRW's looked flawless. They're definately not as good as a more pricy piston like JE or Ross, but them puppies sure are strong...

Anyway, if the crank is forged I think you gotta good deal. An easy way to check if the cranks forged is to tap it with a wrench, it'll ring. Also a forged crank will have a thick parting line going down it.

My shortblock cost me about $1300: 350 4-bolt with main studs, eagle cast steel crank, trw forged flat-tops, and child&albert 5.7 i-beam rods. It would have been a little cheaper if I didnt get "ripped" on it... The original shortblock had a GM forged crank but when we tore the motor apart after buying it, the crank was oval shaped and already cut 20/20 so I had to buy a new one.

 

22203 Sucks! I wont give it any credit at all, its worse then a stock cam because at least a stock cam keeps you from the pump a bit longer.

 

The LW series are just as strong and lightweight as my $500 JE/SRP's.

(they just dont have many options for a 4.040")

-- Joe

 

Im still confused as to why the cam in it cannot be a Lingenfelter. I got this from a friends friend in Florida I think it was. They both said it was a Lingenfelter. I want to say "SuperRam" or sumthin. The cam in it is for computer controlled engines. The setup on it before was TPI.

 

Either the cam is the one you posted; or it's a Lingenfelter product. One or the other. Can't be both.

 

Why does it matter so much? Even if it is a L cam it doesent make any more special then any other cam.

 

I'll chime in here because This is the motor I have in my garage.

They are TRW LW forged flatops w/ 2 valve reliefs.

it is a LPE cam i forget which one of these two

Part # 74213 224/234 496/520 w/ 1.6
or
Part # 74212 214/224 472/496 w/ 1.6

both are on a 112CL

The lower assemb. was balanced. People Spray a 150shot on STOCK CAST pistons. I wouldnt worry about sprayin a 200shot on these. Your T5 will grenade with slicks befor the pistons will.

Just runa good tune and dont run lean.