Yeah another one of these threads... CAM SELECTION?
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Yeah another one of these threads... CAM SELECTION?
I'm looking to build a carbeurated 350, roller cam, topped with Vortecs for my daily driver. Looking to retain power brakes obviously, and fair mileage. Got an S-10 stall converter to partner with it. I want something that can push a 2.73/700r4 car to mid 13s.
Awesome thanks guys
Awesome thanks guys
Mid 13s is all you want? That should be a cake walk. Given the modest gearing and stall you don't want to go nuts with duration. I would think that the ZZ-4 cam would be all you need to meet your goals. I believe it's like 208/220 on a 112* LSA or thereabouts. Fits right into any 87-up factory roller cam block, takes factory roller lifters, valvetrain, etc.
Make sure those Vortecs are set up to take more lift than stock and have upgraded valve springs.
.
Also, check out the sig: 600 CFM carb, Edelbrock Performer intake, Dart Iron Eagle heads, 9:1 compression, little flat tappet 216/216 cam, shortie headers, stock stall. With the stock 2.73 gears it ran 13.6 @ 104.5. A true bolt-together with no special/custom work done to anything in the engine.
Make sure those Vortecs are set up to take more lift than stock and have upgraded valve springs.
.
Also, check out the sig: 600 CFM carb, Edelbrock Performer intake, Dart Iron Eagle heads, 9:1 compression, little flat tappet 216/216 cam, shortie headers, stock stall. With the stock 2.73 gears it ran 13.6 @ 104.5. A true bolt-together with no special/custom work done to anything in the engine.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
If you were in a pinch for cash, the LT4 std cam that you already have would be acceptable with a lower stall converter and the gears you're using.
There could be other choices that would possibly be better than that, but it's paid for.
And you can do a cam upgrade later, along with a converter and gears if you feel like it.
Your strategy depends on your budget, and by the sounds of it you don't want to invest a lot into it right away, or have an engine that's going to break other driveline parts.
I'll add to that, the LT4 came from the factory with 1.6:1 roller rockers. A set of those might compliment your cam nicely.
There could be other choices that would possibly be better than that, but it's paid for.
And you can do a cam upgrade later, along with a converter and gears if you feel like it.
Your strategy depends on your budget, and by the sounds of it you don't want to invest a lot into it right away, or have an engine that's going to break other driveline parts.
I'll add to that, the LT4 came from the factory with 1.6:1 roller rockers. A set of those might compliment your cam nicely.
Last edited by Streetiron85; Jan 13, 2005 at 07:22 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
hmmm well lets go meaner then if mid 13s are that easy
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
If you want to be quicker, can the 2.73s.
You could go with more cam if you wanted to, but with the gearing you have it lugs in overdrive at 60.
So lets say you get a cam that still works with those gears, something in the 210* to 220* @.050 range. There aren't any take off cams available in that range so you'll have to buy a new one.
But then if you change the gearing later, you might wish you hadn't invested in that cam.
The best idea is to plan a strategy for the entire package, gearing and all, and figure out what your budget is, and go from there.
You could go with more cam if you wanted to, but with the gearing you have it lugs in overdrive at 60.
So lets say you get a cam that still works with those gears, something in the 210* to 220* @.050 range. There aren't any take off cams available in that range so you'll have to buy a new one.
But then if you change the gearing later, you might wish you hadn't invested in that cam.
The best idea is to plan a strategy for the entire package, gearing and all, and figure out what your budget is, and go from there.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Streetiron85
If you want to be quicker, can the 2.73s.
You could go with more cam if you wanted to, but with the gearing you have it lugs in overdrive at 60.
So lets say you get a cam that still works with those gears, something in the 210* to 220* @.050 range. There aren't any take off cams available in that range so you'll have to buy a new one.
But then if you change the gearing later, you might wish you hadn't invested in that cam.
The best idea is to plan a strategy for the entire package, gearing and all, and figure out what your budget is, and go from there.
If you want to be quicker, can the 2.73s.
You could go with more cam if you wanted to, but with the gearing you have it lugs in overdrive at 60.
So lets say you get a cam that still works with those gears, something in the 210* to 220* @.050 range. There aren't any take off cams available in that range so you'll have to buy a new one.
But then if you change the gearing later, you might wish you hadn't invested in that cam.
The best idea is to plan a strategy for the entire package, gearing and all, and figure out what your budget is, and go from there.
Not that I meant to vent on you or anything. you've done nothing but help and I appreciate that. But I've been asking people all day yesterday about cams and they all say "spend the money on gears instead." Well how does that help me when the car doesn't move under its own power!?
But yes, I do plan on replacing the rear to a 3.42-ish posi eventually, when affordable. I want something that is fast enough to get me around on peg leg 2.73s until then.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I think the point is, avoid designing your motor around that gear. About the last thing you want to have happen, is to carefully optimize a motor for that crippling gear, and then when you put something decent in it, discover that you have to dig into the motor again.
I'm inclined to agree with the ZZ4 cam as a candidate. The other good one would be a Comp XE262, or one of the other "cutting edge" designs (NOT a 230°/.480" from the Stone Age or the like) from Crane or Lunati. Vortecs have all this great intake flow, but the same sucky exhaust flow as other stock heads; so favor that side somewhat.
I'm inclined to agree with the ZZ4 cam as a candidate. The other good one would be a Comp XE262, or one of the other "cutting edge" designs (NOT a 230°/.480" from the Stone Age or the like) from Crane or Lunati. Vortecs have all this great intake flow, but the same sucky exhaust flow as other stock heads; so favor that side somewhat.
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by RB83L69
I think the point is, avoid designing your motor around that gear. About the last thing you want to have happen, is to carefully optimize a motor for that crippling gear, and then when you put something decent in it, discover that you have to dig into the motor again.
I'm inclined to agree with the ZZ4 cam as a candidate. The other good one would be a Comp XE262, or one of the other "cutting edge" designs (NOT a 230°/.480" from the Stone Age or the like) from Crane or Lunati. Vortecs have all this great intake flow, but the same sucky exhaust flow as other stock heads; so favor that side somewhat.
I think the point is, avoid designing your motor around that gear. About the last thing you want to have happen, is to carefully optimize a motor for that crippling gear, and then when you put something decent in it, discover that you have to dig into the motor again.
I'm inclined to agree with the ZZ4 cam as a candidate. The other good one would be a Comp XE262, or one of the other "cutting edge" designs (NOT a 230°/.480" from the Stone Age or the like) from Crane or Lunati. Vortecs have all this great intake flow, but the same sucky exhaust flow as other stock heads; so favor that side somewhat.
how does the LT4 cam compare? I use it in the 305 but I dont like that it takes a high rpm.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Dam! I'm glad we have about 10 states separating us.
The ZZ4 and LT4 cam are close to the same, the intake might even be the same lobe. The ZZ4 has more duration on the exh side, which would be to your advantage. There would probably be a noticable difference if you compared the two cams side by side, but it may not be worth the investment, since you already have a lot of other parts to buy.
It depends on the depth of your wallet.
Also since you're planning on a gearing change, it may not hurt to get a bigger cam if you can afford it, and just cruise in 3rd if the bottom end is too soggy.
What sort of rpms does your car turn at hwy speeds in OD anyhow?
The ZZ4 and LT4 cam are close to the same, the intake might even be the same lobe. The ZZ4 has more duration on the exh side, which would be to your advantage. There would probably be a noticable difference if you compared the two cams side by side, but it may not be worth the investment, since you already have a lot of other parts to buy.
It depends on the depth of your wallet.
Also since you're planning on a gearing change, it may not hurt to get a bigger cam if you can afford it, and just cruise in 3rd if the bottom end is too soggy.
What sort of rpms does your car turn at hwy speeds in OD anyhow?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Streetiron85
Dam! I'm glad we have about 10 states separating us.
The ZZ4 and LT4 cam are close to the same, the intake might even be the same lobe. The ZZ4 has more duration on the exh side, which would be to your advantage. There would probably be a noticable difference if you compared the two cams side by side, but it may not be worth the investment, since you already have a lot of other parts to buy.
It depends on the depth of your wallet.
Also since you're planning on a gearing change, it may not hurt to get a bigger cam if you can afford it, and just cruise in 3rd if the bottom end is too soggy.
What sort of rpms does your car turn at hwy speeds in OD anyhow?
Dam! I'm glad we have about 10 states separating us.
The ZZ4 and LT4 cam are close to the same, the intake might even be the same lobe. The ZZ4 has more duration on the exh side, which would be to your advantage. There would probably be a noticable difference if you compared the two cams side by side, but it may not be worth the investment, since you already have a lot of other parts to buy.
It depends on the depth of your wallet.
Also since you're planning on a gearing change, it may not hurt to get a bigger cam if you can afford it, and just cruise in 3rd if the bottom end is too soggy.
What sort of rpms does your car turn at hwy speeds in OD anyhow?
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Well, with those kind of rpms at fwy speeds, I don't think a bigger cam would be good unless you're sure that you'll be changing the gears later.
With 26" tires in 3rd gear with the converter clutch engaged, you'd be at about 2200rpm @60 with your 2.73s. (i think)
You could buy a bigger "cutting edge" hyd roller cam of about 225*@050. And then just cruise in 3rd til you get the gears changed.
Is the S-10 converter is a lock up converter?
The vortecs would need to have new springs with one of those cams though and while you were doing that, you'd be able to clearance the guides for the added lift.
You ought to check the retainer to guide clearance anyhow if you got the ZZ4 cam or 1.6 rockers. It could be close right now.
With 26" tires in 3rd gear with the converter clutch engaged, you'd be at about 2200rpm @60 with your 2.73s. (i think)
You could buy a bigger "cutting edge" hyd roller cam of about 225*@050. And then just cruise in 3rd til you get the gears changed.
Is the S-10 converter is a lock up converter?
The vortecs would need to have new springs with one of those cams though and while you were doing that, you'd be able to clearance the guides for the added lift.
You ought to check the retainer to guide clearance anyhow if you got the ZZ4 cam or 1.6 rockers. It could be close right now.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Streetiron85
Well, with those kind of rpms at fwy speeds, I don't think a bigger cam would be good unless you're sure that you'll be changing the gears later.
With 26" tires in 3rd gear with the converter clutch engaged, you'd be at about 2200rpm @60 with your 2.73s. (i think)
You could buy a bigger "cutting edge" hyd roller cam of about 225*@050. And then just cruise in 3rd til you get the gears changed.
Is the S-10 converter is a lock up converter?
The vortecs would need to have new springs with one of those cams though and while you were doing that, you'd be able to clearance the guides for the added lift.
You ought to check the retainer to guide clearance anyhow if you got the ZZ4 cam or 1.6 rockers. It could be close right now.
Well, with those kind of rpms at fwy speeds, I don't think a bigger cam would be good unless you're sure that you'll be changing the gears later.
With 26" tires in 3rd gear with the converter clutch engaged, you'd be at about 2200rpm @60 with your 2.73s. (i think)
You could buy a bigger "cutting edge" hyd roller cam of about 225*@050. And then just cruise in 3rd til you get the gears changed.
Is the S-10 converter is a lock up converter?
The vortecs would need to have new springs with one of those cams though and while you were doing that, you'd be able to clearance the guides for the added lift.
You ought to check the retainer to guide clearance anyhow if you got the ZZ4 cam or 1.6 rockers. It could be close right now.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
You can pick up brand-new take-out ZZ4 cams on ebay constantly for about $125.
Its exhaust lift is .510" theoretical with 1.5 rockers, though; kind of alot for Vortecs.
Its exhaust lift is .510" theoretical with 1.5 rockers, though; kind of alot for Vortecs.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by RB83L69
You can pick up brand-new take-out ZZ4 cams on ebay constantly for about $125.
Its exhaust lift is .510" theoretical with 1.5 rockers, though; kind of alot for Vortecs.
You can pick up brand-new take-out ZZ4 cams on ebay constantly for about $125.
Its exhaust lift is .510" theoretical with 1.5 rockers, though; kind of alot for Vortecs.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Yeah, I made a mistake, the LT4 is smaller than the ZZ4.
I really ought to try looking things up before I post.
Someone posted a few days ago that the ZZ4 can be bought for $100 from Sallee
Edit: Looked on Sallee's site and I couldn't find any ZZ4 take off cams
I really ought to try looking things up before I post.
Someone posted a few days ago that the ZZ4 can be bought for $100 from Sallee
Edit: Looked on Sallee's site and I couldn't find any ZZ4 take off cams
Last edited by Streetiron85; Jan 14, 2005 at 06:11 PM.
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From: North Huntingdon,PA
Car: No F-Body Currently :(
Engine: none
Transmission: none
Axle/Gears: still...none...(ugh)
I posted about the zz4 cam...
Look under the "sales ad" section.....here is what is on that webpage............
SALLEE CHEVROLET - BRAND NEW TAKE OFFS SPECIALS
SPECIAL BLOW OUTS!! - BRAND NEW ZZ4 TAKE OFFS
ZZ4 SB self aligning stamped steel rockers. (set of 16) $25.00
ZZ4 Aluminum Heads with valves. (pair) ~~ Sold Out! ~~
ZZ4 Roller Camshaft - This cam is for 86 and up small blocks. $95.00
*****************************************************
You must use these parts listed below to complete a roller cam conversion.
{These are new parts, not Take Offs.}
PN 12371042 Lifter kit, includes hold downs. $204.35
PN 12371041 Pushrods. $24.48
PN 12371043 Timing set, includes thrust plate. $45.36
*****************************************************
ZZ4 Water Pump Long style, cast iron. - Fits most cars and trucks from 78 up to 86. $15.00
SALLEE CHEVROLET - BRAND NEW TAKE OFFS SPECIALS
SPECIAL BLOW OUTS!! - BRAND NEW ZZ4 TAKE OFFS
ZZ4 SB self aligning stamped steel rockers. (set of 16) $25.00
ZZ4 Aluminum Heads with valves. (pair) ~~ Sold Out! ~~
ZZ4 Roller Camshaft - This cam is for 86 and up small blocks. $95.00
*****************************************************
You must use these parts listed below to complete a roller cam conversion.
{These are new parts, not Take Offs.}
PN 12371042 Lifter kit, includes hold downs. $204.35
PN 12371041 Pushrods. $24.48
PN 12371043 Timing set, includes thrust plate. $45.36
*****************************************************
ZZ4 Water Pump Long style, cast iron. - Fits most cars and trucks from 78 up to 86. $15.00
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