Code 32 = Big Problems
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: CA, USA
Code 32 = Big Problems
I am learning very fast, that anything having to do with your EGR not functioning properly is very expensive to fix....
I have spent over $400 trying to get the damn thing to work properly, this includes:
Installation of brand new GM EGR sensor + solenoid ($280)
Installation of new computer chip + PROM ($250)
Now, the new computer is being put in today as a result of the car still not running properly even with the new EGR. The mechanic said it has to be the computer, since the EGR is brand new and a quality GM part...what do you guys think?
I will not put another penny into correcting this problem...if a new comp doesn't fix it, screw it.
------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ OD
Additional:'92 Z-28 Rims, T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Edelbrock Suspension Kit, Edelbrock Catback Exhaust (Chrome tips), K&N Air Filter
I have spent over $400 trying to get the damn thing to work properly, this includes:
Installation of brand new GM EGR sensor + solenoid ($280)
Installation of new computer chip + PROM ($250)
Now, the new computer is being put in today as a result of the car still not running properly even with the new EGR. The mechanic said it has to be the computer, since the EGR is brand new and a quality GM part...what do you guys think?
I will not put another penny into correcting this problem...if a new comp doesn't fix it, screw it.
------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ OD
Additional:'92 Z-28 Rims, T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Edelbrock Suspension Kit, Edelbrock Catback Exhaust (Chrome tips), K&N Air Filter
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
Wow, thats sucks, you are beong robbed a few times over by your 'mechanic'
#1 - you don't have an EGR sensor. MAF cars didi, not SD. An EGR valve is maybe $40 and the EGR solenoid can't be that much. Even if he is including labor you've been robbed cuz any fool should be able to change the EGR/solenoid in an hour and change, including running into the house for fresh beers.
#2 - A new PROM on memcal will run you $60-70 at most.
#3 - he's guessing what your problem is, thereby robbing you on cost for replacement parts that don't even fix it cuz he didn't know. Code 32 is a tough one to pinpoint w/o scanner data unless something is obviously wrong/defective. My personal solution has been to mask code 32 out of the PROM, everything in my EGR system looks good and it only happens intermittently. Without knowing exactly why it fails the test for code32, i'd be pissing in the wind (as your mechanic is.)
My recomendation, avoid that guy like the plague and learn how to do it yourself. You;ll save buckets of money, plus downtime of having your car at the shop, plus ths satisfaction of knowing how your car works.
As to your current specific problem, give us more detail on this 'rough running' as well as the general condition of your tune up, etc. My initial WAG is gonna be that your MAP is shot/on it's way out, causing your rough running and EGR code.
...ed
------------------
Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
LB9 4L60 GU2 G80 - stock, soon to be sleeper
-=ICON Motorsports=-
- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die
#1 - you don't have an EGR sensor. MAF cars didi, not SD. An EGR valve is maybe $40 and the EGR solenoid can't be that much. Even if he is including labor you've been robbed cuz any fool should be able to change the EGR/solenoid in an hour and change, including running into the house for fresh beers.
#2 - A new PROM on memcal will run you $60-70 at most.
#3 - he's guessing what your problem is, thereby robbing you on cost for replacement parts that don't even fix it cuz he didn't know. Code 32 is a tough one to pinpoint w/o scanner data unless something is obviously wrong/defective. My personal solution has been to mask code 32 out of the PROM, everything in my EGR system looks good and it only happens intermittently. Without knowing exactly why it fails the test for code32, i'd be pissing in the wind (as your mechanic is.)
My recomendation, avoid that guy like the plague and learn how to do it yourself. You;ll save buckets of money, plus downtime of having your car at the shop, plus ths satisfaction of knowing how your car works.
As to your current specific problem, give us more detail on this 'rough running' as well as the general condition of your tune up, etc. My initial WAG is gonna be that your MAP is shot/on it's way out, causing your rough running and EGR code.
...ed
------------------
Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
LB9 4L60 GU2 G80 - stock, soon to be sleeper
-=ICON Motorsports=-
- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: CA, USA
I thought I was being charged a little "much" for those "repairs". On the other hand, mechanic labor is a fortune, so I can't be too shocked I guess...
The real problem lies in the fact I have almost 0 mech-skills, so I really can't do the work myself, I'm 19 and have never taken any auto-shop or anything...most I could do would be to change a tire, jump start another car, change some liquids etc...
Anyway...I'll explain my whole problem, start to finish for you:
When I got the car, I noticed it had a real nasty bog off the line when I would accelerate (it would stall and die on me sometimes too)...so I took it to the "mech", and he came to the conclusion someone had messed with the EGR prior to me.
His quick and cheap solution: unplug the EGR.
That solved the engine bog problem, but caused another problem...at highway / freeway speed (40mph+), with the EGR not functional, the engine timing would become retarded to a default setting by the computer to avoid high detenation
Translation: I see a drop in performance as well as a "Service Engine Soon" light.
So then I went back to the "mech", and told him to "fix the problem", so he goes in there, and puts in a new EGR....and the car AGAIN has the bog off the line... so now we are back to square one (and I am out $280).
Now he says it must be the computer (this is not the same as the MAP, right?). So he is putting in a new computer....which is the last thing he can think of as to why the EGR won't regulate properly.
He did a diagnostic and came back with 40% exhaust recirculation at idle, which I think explains the bog....the car is choking when I give it a little gas.
So...this is where I stand. Thanks!!
------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ OD
Additional:'92 Z-28 Rims, T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Edelbrock Suspension Kit, Edelbrock Catback Exhaust (Chrome tips), K&N Air Filter
[This message has been edited by 1990 IROCZ (edited June 25, 2001).]
The real problem lies in the fact I have almost 0 mech-skills, so I really can't do the work myself, I'm 19 and have never taken any auto-shop or anything...most I could do would be to change a tire, jump start another car, change some liquids etc...
Anyway...I'll explain my whole problem, start to finish for you:
When I got the car, I noticed it had a real nasty bog off the line when I would accelerate (it would stall and die on me sometimes too)...so I took it to the "mech", and he came to the conclusion someone had messed with the EGR prior to me.
His quick and cheap solution: unplug the EGR.
That solved the engine bog problem, but caused another problem...at highway / freeway speed (40mph+), with the EGR not functional, the engine timing would become retarded to a default setting by the computer to avoid high detenation
Translation: I see a drop in performance as well as a "Service Engine Soon" light.
So then I went back to the "mech", and told him to "fix the problem", so he goes in there, and puts in a new EGR....and the car AGAIN has the bog off the line... so now we are back to square one (and I am out $280).
Now he says it must be the computer (this is not the same as the MAP, right?). So he is putting in a new computer....which is the last thing he can think of as to why the EGR won't regulate properly.
He did a diagnostic and came back with 40% exhaust recirculation at idle, which I think explains the bog....the car is choking when I give it a little gas.
So...this is where I stand. Thanks!!
------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ OD
Additional:'92 Z-28 Rims, T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Edelbrock Suspension Kit, Edelbrock Catback Exhaust (Chrome tips), K&N Air Filter
[This message has been edited by 1990 IROCZ (edited June 25, 2001).]
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Southern Wisconsin
Don't be so shy of your car. Hey it is your car right. You don't have to worry about someone getting ticked cause you messed up "their" car. I am in the same boat as you, I never took shop or anything, I never even changed a spark plug or oil for that matter until I was about 21.
My point being, Get your hands on as many tech manuals and books as you can and dive in. Get a Haynes, or a Chiltons, and keep coming to this sight, any thing. Start by learning aobut your car. After a little reading you'll see how much easier it seems.
The best way to learn is doing it yourself.
(Sorry I don't have any suggestions for your mech problem.)
My point being, Get your hands on as many tech manuals and books as you can and dive in. Get a Haynes, or a Chiltons, and keep coming to this sight, any thing. Start by learning aobut your car. After a little reading you'll see how much easier it seems.
The best way to learn is doing it yourself.
(Sorry I don't have any suggestions for your mech problem.)
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
lefty loosy, righty tighty, remember that and you will be okay.
as for your problem....
Sounds like the EGR is opening at Improper time, Causeing your Bog.
What controls it to open? Im not sure On your car, Probrably the solenoid wich is in turn controlled by the computer.
Sooo You need to find out why it is opening at off idle, wich its not supposed too.
Only part throttle If I remmber properly. ( but above a certain % so that off idle performance is not effected, like yours is.
Map sounds like a good guess, ed ( is he lean... lol ) realistically, I can't say because i have little experiance with TPI. My gut tells me suspect the TPS, Or the MAP, depending on how the ECM detects proper egr opening time...
------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver 14.82 @ 91.1
Reader's ride -> My Ride
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
as for your problem....
Sounds like the EGR is opening at Improper time, Causeing your Bog.
What controls it to open? Im not sure On your car, Probrably the solenoid wich is in turn controlled by the computer.
Sooo You need to find out why it is opening at off idle, wich its not supposed too.
Only part throttle If I remmber properly. ( but above a certain % so that off idle performance is not effected, like yours is.
Map sounds like a good guess, ed ( is he lean... lol ) realistically, I can't say because i have little experiance with TPI. My gut tells me suspect the TPS, Or the MAP, depending on how the ECM detects proper egr opening time...
------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver 14.82 @ 91.1
Reader's ride -> My Ride
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
Yeah, you definitely have something weird going on, perhaps a dead/dying sensor.
Assuming he wasn't lying and he was seeing 40% EGR commanded througbh the computer at idle, well, that doesn't make any sense. The compyter will not command any EGR with a closed throttle. So, like i said, assuming he wans't lying i would suspect a bad TPS or perhaps bad ecm. On SD (speed density) cars the TPS, the ECM initializes based on the TPS reading when you start the car. Also a bad TPS could most certainly cause a bog and other weirdness.
To check teh TPS you will need a digital voltmeter (DVM), you then need to jumper into the TPS connector (or pierce the wires) and check teh voltage between the middle wire and on of the other ones (sorry, i forget which it is on TPI, lol.) It should be near 0.5V with the throttle closed and smoothly increase as you open the throttle. If it's way off that, or is jumpy, then you've found your problem and you can thank your mechanic for wasting 10x the money you needed to.
...ed
Assuming he wasn't lying and he was seeing 40% EGR commanded througbh the computer at idle, well, that doesn't make any sense. The compyter will not command any EGR with a closed throttle. So, like i said, assuming he wans't lying i would suspect a bad TPS or perhaps bad ecm. On SD (speed density) cars the TPS, the ECM initializes based on the TPS reading when you start the car. Also a bad TPS could most certainly cause a bog and other weirdness.
To check teh TPS you will need a digital voltmeter (DVM), you then need to jumper into the TPS connector (or pierce the wires) and check teh voltage between the middle wire and on of the other ones (sorry, i forget which it is on TPI, lol.) It should be near 0.5V with the throttle closed and smoothly increase as you open the throttle. If it's way off that, or is jumpy, then you've found your problem and you can thank your mechanic for wasting 10x the money you needed to.
...ed
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
From: Randleman,NC,USA
Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 385ci LT1 cnc ported heads big cam
Transmission: 4L60E automatic
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Zexel posi 7.5" rear
I agree with ED. The TPS or Throttle Position Sensor is located on the opposite side of the throttle body from the throttle cable. You can learn how to do this stuff yourself. I am a computer network engineer and just got tired of paying mechanics to piddle and learn at my expense. Yes you will screw up and we are here to help with that. Yes occassionally you will break something else "oops". You will still come out WAY cheaper than paying the mechanic and learn more about your car. You also get some pride from doing it yourself. Just don't jump in and change the cam when you barely can change the oil. Get the Haynes manual. It will help tremendously. With it there isn't much you can not do to that car. Go to http://www.harbourfreight.com and buy yourself a $10 digital volt meter and maybe some other goodies and get to work.
------------------
91 Camaro RS 5.0L Black Convertible 700R4
** Added so far **
*GM Wonderbar
*Alston SFC's
*Turbo City Inj Spacer
*Dual Snorkel Air Filter
*March Performance Pulleys
*GM 3.42 Gears with OEM Zexel
*Edelbrock headers
*3" High Flow Cat
*3" Dynomax Exhaust
*Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump
***Future 330hp Vortec Crate with LT4 hotcam and 454 TBI
------------------
91 Camaro RS 5.0L Black Convertible 700R4
** Added so far **
*GM Wonderbar
*Alston SFC's
*Turbo City Inj Spacer
*Dual Snorkel Air Filter
*March Performance Pulleys
*GM 3.42 Gears with OEM Zexel
*Edelbrock headers
*3" High Flow Cat
*3" Dynomax Exhaust
*Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump
***Future 330hp Vortec Crate with LT4 hotcam and 454 TBI
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Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,383
Likes: 0
From: Oakville, Ct
Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
yeah the work really isnt too bad...
yes u have been screwed, i woulda first guessed it was the tps myself, and would have gone about checking the voltage.
anyways, give things a try, find out if any of your friends have any mechanical knowledge... i gained the majority of mine from the race car me and my dad ran, but then i also learned a lot of the computer stuff from this site as well
steve
yes u have been screwed, i woulda first guessed it was the tps myself, and would have gone about checking the voltage.
anyways, give things a try, find out if any of your friends have any mechanical knowledge... i gained the majority of mine from the race car me and my dad ran, but then i also learned a lot of the computer stuff from this site as well
steve
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: CA, USA
Sorry guys, to clear 1 thing up..
We are seeing 40% exhaust recirculation OFF of idle...meaning, when I give it gas, the computer is commanding 40% exhaust back into the engine, causing it to choke and bog.
I orignally said 40% at idle, which is not correct. Sorry about that.
------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ OD
Additional:'92 Z-28 Rims, T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Edelbrock Suspension Kit, Edelbrock Catback Exhaust (Chrome tips), K&N Air Filter
We are seeing 40% exhaust recirculation OFF of idle...meaning, when I give it gas, the computer is commanding 40% exhaust back into the engine, causing it to choke and bog.
I orignally said 40% at idle, which is not correct. Sorry about that.
------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ OD
Additional:'92 Z-28 Rims, T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Edelbrock Suspension Kit, Edelbrock Catback Exhaust (Chrome tips), K&N Air Filter
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