Guys-

I want to disable my "Service Engine Soon" light, so that I don't see it anymore when I get a code 32..

I don't want to permenantly disable it, since on occasion I will need to reconnect it so I can check for other errors that may pop-up.

I don't wanna mess with the computer, so can I just take the bulb out for the light? unplug a wire?

Can anyone walk me through this? Thanks!!!

------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Color: Artic White w/ Gold decals
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ OD
Additional:'92 Z-28 rims (w/ white trim), T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Koni shocks, K&N Air, Edelbrock catback exhaust (soon)

[This message has been edited by 1990 IROCZ (edited July 02, 2001).]

 

Mask code 32 out in the PROM

Just one of the many little conveniences of PROM burning...

edit, just thought i'd add that before you go disabling error codes you should be pretty sure there is no 'real' problem. My code 32 was very inconsistently intermittent and all associated parts checked out fine. Thus i turned the code off, knowing that SD cars are notorious for 32s even with working EGR systems cuz of how hard the 32 'test' is to pass. So now 'i' am diagnosing for 32, if i start to see knock in cruise situations where EGR should be active i will have to re-inspect the system.

[This message has been edited by Ed Maher (edited July 02, 2001).]

 

Easiest: stick black tape on it

next: pull the bulb?

 

I don't really want to edit my PROM, and besides, burning would require too much money and time to do...

I just want to disable the light, either by removing the bulb, or unplugging the wire that runs to the SES light..something cheap and easy..

Thanks again!


------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Color: Artic White w/ Gold decals
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ OD
Additional:'92 Z-28 rims (w/ white trim), T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Koni shocks, K&N Air, Edelbrock catback exhaust (soon)

 

Actually disabling the SES light makes no sense whatsoever. If any little dumb thing goes wrong and puts you in limp home mode, you won't know and you'll be driving around running like ****. The only way you could justify it would be if you were to pull codes from it like everyday to make sure everything is OK. Otherwise it's a dumb idea.
If you get your code 32 more than intermittently on the highway something is wrong in the EGR system and needs to be fixed. If you do get one intermittently on the highway, all you need to do is speed up a bit, turn the key to 'off' for 5 seconds (leave it in gear, keep driving) and then turn the key back on. The engine will still be spinning since the trans never lost hydraulics cuz it was always moving, so ytou don't have to use the starter. If you get a 32 so often that the above procedure is annoying then you have a real problem that needs to be fixed. Why are you treating your car like some POS honda?

 

Ed-

If any little dumb thing goes wrong, I will be in limp home mode no matter what... regardless if my "SES" light is on or not, I will know something is wrong and will have to go to a garage.

I get my Code 32 EVERYDAY on my way TO AND FROM work...it is so damn annoying, I can't even begin to explain. It always happens at exactly the same time...about 1-2 mins holding speeds above 40mph...

I have sent my car to the shop 3 times already attempting to correct this, and have wasted $400+ trying to fix the damn thing, I can't afford to spend anymore money on this...

Finally, where do you get that I am treating my car like a POS Honda? I love my car to death, all I am talking about is pulling out a bulb/wire....

Thanks I guess?



------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Color: Artic White w/ Gold decals
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ OD
Additional:'92 Z-28 rims (w/ white trim), T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Koni shocks, K&N Air, Edelbrock catback exhaust (soon)

 

pulling the bulb is not the correct way to go about it,, you will still be pissed when you are driving 40 mph and you know you are getting a code, even if you dont see the light..
try to fix it yourself,, in my experience with mechanics, most of them dont know ****..
do a search on the boards and post some questions,, you will feel much better knowing its fixed.

 

2 ways:
Smart way: fix the problem. You car will run better, last longer, and you'll be happy, or you at least should be
Easy way: Put tape over the SES light, remove the bulb or replace it with a known blown one. Doesn't make sense, you really can't tell if something goes wrong. Only positive thing is it keeps from annoying you at night.

 

You've got a trouble code.... you've got a problem. In the time it takes you to disassemble the dash and take out the bulb you could probably fix it yourself.

Forget the shop.

You are ahead of the game because you have a car that DOES put out trouble codes when you have a problem and from the sound of it..... it's a consistent problem. Far better than an intermittent problem.

Sounds like it's when it's going into "closed loop" to me. Put out a call for Vader or keep listening to Ed and it'll probably be an easy fix.

 

Is it me or is the Service engine soon light the stupidest light they ever put in a car. Could it be any less non-spefic??? **** I mean I can get out of the car and look under the hood check the oil and look at my belts, there I serviced it. BUT HOLY SMOKES BATMAN, the light is still on. Why not a light that says "I think somethings wrong" or "Somethings Broken, please service"

 

PS: here is a sugesstion, don't unplug it, or remove the buld. GEt a piece of black eletrical tape and place it over the darn thing. Won't that do just fine??

 

Well, with the fifty or so codes that are in our cars and the countless codes that are in the OBD-II systems, a light for every error code would look funny.

(You ever see that vw beetle covered in lights from Moneypit?)

 

Thats exactly my point, even the guywho just replied saying servicing belts counts for the light (lol, i hope you were trying to be funny) figured out the easiest way to cover it (e tape.) You need to finally do something right to your car, or at least rig it without making us advocate it, lol.

 

I've been trying to do something RIGHT for weeks now, and have spent $400 $@#$%* dollars already...I can't afford to put it in the shop again guys....

This should have been fixed the first time for under $100!!

You'd think a damn mechanic could fix a damn valve....boy was I mistaken....


------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Color: Artic White w/ Gold decals
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ OD
Additional:'92 Z-28 rims (w/ white trim), T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Koni shocks, K&N Air, Edelbrock catback exhaust (soon)

 

Repair the EGR valve, temperature sensor, and solenoid. Keep the MIL lamp. Considering what you've spent so far for this problem, you could have had a new valve, sensor, and solenoid, and probably no more DTCs. You'd probably have some money left over, too. I hope for your sake that the shop you frequent didn't install an aftermarket EGR valve - especially one of the "universal" types with the oriface washers. These are seldom calibrated well and rarely work properly on a TPI installation.

Not every DTC will cause you to enter "limp home" mode (Backup Fuel and spark), and a 32 is one DTC that won't push you into Backup Fuel mode.

While you're at it, shop for a new mechanic - or save the labor charges and start acquiring some tools and knowledge about your car. You'll be much happier, more intelligent, and satisfied in the long run.

Just another opinion.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

It;s a 90...SD cars don't have temp sensors on the EGR valve, instead it senses the vacuum fluctuations through the MAP when it commands EGR on. Perhaps the MAP is losing some precision as well, although if hegets the code everyday i'd imagine there might be more driveability symptoms to go along.