Summit timing chain?
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Summit timing chain?
Anybody have experience with Summit's cheap timing chain set? $15 for a single non roller adjustable, just seems a bit to cheap to be real. It's part number SUM-G6501.
I have a OEM set that is only 3000 miles old, but was on my dead 305. Would I be better off using that one? The chain doesn't seem to be streched, but I'm kind of leary about reusing something like that. The engine let a rod go, bent 2 others, and bent all 16 valves. During the process it also cracked the block, swiss cheesed the pan, and ballooned the whole side of the pan out. The chain was definately feeling more turning resistance than usual.
I have a OEM set that is only 3000 miles old, but was on my dead 305. Would I be better off using that one? The chain doesn't seem to be streched, but I'm kind of leary about reusing something like that. The engine let a rod go, bent 2 others, and bent all 16 valves. During the process it also cracked the block, swiss cheesed the pan, and ballooned the whole side of the pan out. The chain was definately feeling more turning resistance than usual.
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I think I'd go for an OEM-type link set, or a "real" double roller.
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From: Southern, Maryland
Car: 06 Trailblazer SS
Engine: 6.0 LS2
Axle/Gears: 4.10
I have a summit double roller. It seems like a really high quality piece. I have used comp and crane before. With the naked eye it seems to be up there. My thing with the comp chain is the sprocket had multiple key ways but they had no label as to what groove was advanced, retarded, or zero.
If you are installing it for someone else, and want some repeat business, go ahead and use teh roller chain set. If it is going into your own vehicle, avoid it like A.I.D.S., unless you like to have excuses to tear into the engine routinely.
5-7 pretty much covered my opinion. Use an inverted gear chain (a.k.a., "Link Belt", "silent", or factory type chain drive) or large single true-roller like the LT1/4 used.
And just out of general principle, I wouldn't use the potentially damaged chain set from the blown engine either. The risk just isn't worth saving the forty bucks.
5-7 pretty much covered my opinion. Use an inverted gear chain (a.k.a., "Link Belt", "silent", or factory type chain drive) or large single true-roller like the LT1/4 used.
And just out of general principle, I wouldn't use the potentially damaged chain set from the blown engine either. The risk just isn't worth saving the forty bucks.
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Awesome guys, that puts my mind at ease since that's pretty much along the lines of what I was thinking. I have a few other things I have to send back to summit anyways, I can just toss this in the box with it all.
I'll look into the summit double roller and the cloyes. Thanks for the input guys
I'll look into the summit double roller and the cloyes. Thanks for the input guys
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Don't confuse the $30 Su6mmit double roller chain with the $15 cheapie. The double roller is a decent piece- still not as good as a Cloyes True Roller, my usual go-to favorite- but it's decent. The $15 chain is junk, just like all $15 chains.
Yes, you may have to do some MINOR grinding on the top of the main oil galley boss above the cam bearing. The double-row gear will clear it, but the double-row chain links may rub on it slightly. This is true for most SBC double row chain sets.
For chains that are not marked clearly as +4* adv, 0* and -4* retarded the usual symbology is:
Triangle = 4* advance
Circle = 0* straight up
Rectangle = 4* retarded
Yes, you may have to do some MINOR grinding on the top of the main oil galley boss above the cam bearing. The double-row gear will clear it, but the double-row chain links may rub on it slightly. This is true for most SBC double row chain sets.
For chains that are not marked clearly as +4* adv, 0* and -4* retarded the usual symbology is:
Triangle = 4* advance
Circle = 0* straight up
Rectangle = 4* retarded
Last edited by Damon; Feb 24, 2005 at 03:03 PM.
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From: Bowdon, GA.
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
The $30 summit double roller is very good IMO. I used them on the last 3 engines I built for me and my dad. 2 on 327's, and 1 on a 350. All 3 engines sees 6000+ rpm use weekly, and 2 (1 327 and 1 350) are daily drivers
The last Cloyes I used was alittle too loose for my liking. Ever since then it's been summit $30 double rollers for me
The last Cloyes I used was alittle too loose for my liking. Ever since then it's been summit $30 double rollers for me
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