For my 383 project, should I remove the 350 from my truck (94k, prolly 95k even when i get to the project) and have it cleaned up and punched out at a machine shop, then buy all the parts (possibly as a balanced kit) and assemble, or should I go ahead and buy a pre balanced and assembled short block? I would really like to do as much of the work myself as possible, but it may be cheaper and smarter to buy something prefitted and warrantied?

 

Were you thinking about something along these lines"

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Chev...ine_Block.html

There are bebefits to having a complete and ready engine before disabling the vehicle. There are also benefits to having done some of the work oneself. Only you can decide.

 

something along those lines yes. Was thinking fresh block w/ crank, rods, pistons, rings, caps etc etc, then add cam, heads, intake and the remaining pieces seperate.

 

I'd guess you could save about a thousand dollars by using what you have and building it. Also, seems to me like I read that GM uses a four inch bore block and a non-standard crank to get the actual 383 cubes? Wonder if that is so?

 

yea, it could be a few $100 more i think but might save time. I wouldnt buy it from GM, but perhaps a reputable machine/racing shop that used quality aftermarket parts and basically came w/ the block and bottom end

 

Yes, 4" bore & 3.80" stroke.

 

I would buy if from GM.

They cant afford to seel junk and dont.

Just think how long and how well a stock engine runs.

many machine shops dont know anymore than you do.

I tried to go the rout of having a machine shop fix my block. I was not happy. Bores were not round. Piston clearence was not correct. bearing bores for crank journals were tapered.

Rods ends were not round and tapered.

Bearing clearence was not right.

And I figured all this out and I am not a machinest. I had to go to another shop.

Also dont ever trust that the block has been cleaned. Mine was blaseded with the shot and the shot stuck in all the small spaces just waiting to come out and become srapnel. All of the threads had to be chased to get rid of the stuff and I had to clean the block until hell would not have it.

Save youself some missery and buy a GM piece.

 

SDIF, when you say buy GM, do you mean a crate/shortblock from them, or just get a brand new block from them? Looks like a brand new block is about $600 I think, but I would still need the machining for the overbore. Can you buy a 350 already w/ the .030 overbore?

 

I believe that they offer a 383 complete short block as shown in a previous post on this thread.

If it is not quite 383 it will be close with a 4 in bore and a 3.75 stroke.

I would get the whole short block from them because if you only get the bare block it will still have to be machined.

The bare GM blocks that I have seen the cylinders are rough finished to allow the end user to hone to the particular finish and clearence.

If you buy it all complete all this will be finished to GM specs and you should not have to worry.

I have not seen but heard of people tearing down a stock GM engine and finding bearings that were 0.0005 over or undersized. That is 1/2 of one thousands of an inch. How many shops go to the trouble of obtaining those clearence specs. Most shops just slap in bearings and go.

Also the GM rods will be to spec. Many rod rebuilds and virgin aftermarket rods do not have round holes. And it they are round they have tapper meaning that the hole (big rod end) is not the same diameter from one side to the other. It may be a cone or hour glass shaped. This is a result of a quick resurface in which the rod ends are not ground square and runing the hone trying to take out the necessary material in one step.

The big end diameter needs to be remeasured after it has had time to cool as it will shrink. For this reason the rods need to be honed allowed to cool remeasured and re honed until round in the proper diameter.

They need to be mearured with a dial bore gage and the sides need to be slighyly wider than the top and bottom to account for the bearing pulling in on the sides under load.

If this is not done the rod bearing may spin.

On and on.

GM builds good engines with a warranty. How many stock engines have you seen fail due to improper assemble or machine work?

If I had it to do over again I would have bought a GM short block and put on my heads and installed my cam.

Also try scoggin dicky as they have a wide selection of GM pre assembled pieces.

 

4" bore & 3.80" stroke.

 

None. I've seen race shops who should be known for blueprinting blame it on something else and the customer just swallows it and gives them another shot or even two at rebuilding it cause they know no better. Sad state of affairs out there for some "reputable" shops. The customers are afraid to complain because then they will end up with nothing. There are good shops, then there are money grubbing bastards! Folks need to speak up about the bad shops more so they go under like they should.