A couple of hours ago I went out to start my car and it wouldnt. All I got was one click when I turned the key. All of my lights, radio and everything else still worked fine. This is the third time it has done this in about a year and a half. It does not happen frequently at all. And all I do is let it sit after I have tried it for a while and it will start, I dont have to jump it off or anything. Each time it happened on a cold start so its nothing with the starter solenoid getting too hot. The alternator is almost brand new and the battery has been tested twice at Advance and proved to be fine. The starter is the original as far as I know. Could this be warning signs that its about to go? I did have a lot of corrosion on the terminals that I cleaned off the last time it happened. No corrosion this time though. Any suggestions?

 

No corrosion on the battery terminals, but if they looked bad last time, think of what the connections on the starter could look like. Try cleaning them, and bypassing the solenoid. Make sure its getting power and if you can't get it cranking, take the starter out and have it tested. My stock starter died after 130,000 miles.

 

It could be the starter going or it may be the VATS system since it's a '91.

I'm not all that knowlegable with the VATS but there is a resistor pellet in your key that makes contact in the ingition switch. This is tied to the vats module which has a relay to kill the starter and also the computer will not fire the injectors. The next time it has a fit, fit up an injector test light and see if you get a blink or not. If you get a flash, suspect the starter or the wiring/ignition switch. If no flash suspect the VATS or ignition module/pickup-coil.

Hope this helps.

 

do u have the antitheft key system?

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88' GTA 350 MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass

 

Sometimes the key's resistor won't fully contact the electrodes :P

ive had the same thing happen to me. Just pull the key out, dust it off, and try it again. Never spray WD-40 in the ignition.

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1992 Pontiac Firebird
- 305ci V8 TBI / Automatic Trans / Loaded
- MODS: Edelbrock 14x3 Open Element Air Cleaner, Dual outlet exhaust

 

Yes, I do have the VATS system and that does sound like it could the culprit since it very seldom happens. Instead of just dusting the key off can I also somehow dust off the contacts inside the iginition without messing anything up?? Thanks for the help guys.

 

The 92 RS I had did that but a little more often. It was the battery cables, but I just never fixed it(left it up to the new owner).

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89 RS 350 TBI auto Hooker SC/LT headers Open element 3in K&N CVT protorque mini-starter

Daily driver 91 RS auto LO3 63k

New project- 89 Formula 350 WS6
383 or 400 to come!

 

Compressed air, those little cans u buy for your computer


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88' GTA 350 MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass

 

How about that TV tuner cleaner. It's supposed to take off any deposits and corrosion. I think you can get it at radio shack.

 

I dont know about spraying a liquid into my ignition cylinder. I will try the compressed air first and see if it happens again. Thanks.

 

Next time it won't start, have someone hit the starter with a broomstick while you turn the key. Could be a dead spot. If it works, your starter is bad.

 

I definitely can help you here. I just finally cured this very thing on my car. Drove me nuts for months. Intermittant electrical problems are tough to crack, especially for me.

1.If there is a problem with the VATS, it is likely the Security light will not come on for two seconds and then go off like it is supposed to when you turn the key on.

2.I tested my battery, battery cables and had a fresh starter and solenoid in my car when my occasional hot no start would show up. Of course, I could never get it to do the no start in my driveway. Ended up carrying a Voltmeter and tools with me in my car.

3.The cars solenoid S terminal juice goes thru the steering column "Ignition Switch" and in an automatic, the "Park Safety Switch".

4. My "Park Safety Switch" located on the auto shifter under the center console cover
was sparking so bad from wear I saw it at night reflecting off of the tranny tunnel!
When I took the switch apart, I could see where it was actually burnt from the juice jumping the worn gap! Fixing this item made my car start 9 out of 10 times! Almost there I thought.

5.Next up, checked the "Ignition Switch" on the topside of the steering column under the dash. What a B.... to get to. This switch was burnt up inside also from wear making the juice have to jump a gap in the switch.

6. Both of these switches are mechanical and have all of your solenoid juice running thru them. When they wear enough, you lose voltage like my voltmeter showed. But more importantly, use lose amps and your starter will click.

7.If your battery, battery cables and starter with solenoid are known to be good.
I would bet it is one of these switches.

8.The "Ignition Switch" has a red fat wire coming in and a yellow fat wire coming out.
Probe both with a voltmeter. There should be no voltage drop between them. You should have 12 volts on each wire. A voltage dropwill indicate a resistance, "A Bad Switch in other words". My moneies on this switch of the two.

9."Park Safety Switch". Check the two fat wires coming into this switch also. They are the top two and I remember one as being purple. Again each should read 12 volts.

Good luck.

Steve

1989 IROC Convertible
22 Option "Daily Driver"
3,300 miles a month with a hell of a grin!

 

Thanks a bunch 89convertIROCer for the detailed tech article. That should definately help me out. I have to be sure to remember to look at the security light next time this happens and if thats fine go from there. My park safety switch has been recently replaced when I switched to the B&M Megashifter so I should have it narrowed down to either VATS or ignition switch as you mentioned. Thanks again for the help.