I have seen several magazine articles on the world or merlin blocks. They seem to be built pretty good. As i recall, some of the blocks accept normal engine components, so you don't have to buy expensive racing parts for the engine, you can actually use normal engine components!

I have heard good things about rocket blocks, and bowtie blocks, but I would hate to pick one up, and have to buy special expensive racing components to build the engine. Anyone have any suggestions? I would like to build a 400+ci and toss a ATI Procharger on it at some point. I figure a Superram, or Miniram would work good for a high CI engine like that too. Still, I am looking for a small block, not a big block.

Also, what part combination would yield me over 400ci? Would it be mostly on the crank? or the bore i would be increasing to get good power?

Thanks for any suggestions, or comments!!!

------------------
1986 IROC Camaro
305 TPI "LB9"
3.23 gears
Doesn't know enough about cars.
AIM: jesusathome

 

I'm not the leading expert on this, but no one else has responded.

To get 400 ci, you need 4.125" bore and 3.75" stroke. To get that bore, you need siamesed cylinders, meaning a block cast to produce that bore. The 3.75" stroke is a 400 crank, which is externally balanced (unless specially balanced with heavy metal weights in the counterweights). Easily obtainable stuff ("normal engine components"), though you might have bellhousing/starter/flexplate clearance issues to resolve.

The most comprehensive article I've seen on the World Motown block made it sound pretty impressive, although I'm not sure how much was tech and how much was advertising. But, since it is less expensive than a BowTie, sounds like a good way to go. It is also available in different bore sizes so you start off with the right cylinder wall thickness for the bore you want.

The heads, cam & intake should all be matched as a package for the displacement and intended use. You'll get great power whether the displacement is exactly 400 or 434 (bigger bore and further stroked) if the package is put together correctly.

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

 

actually the aug2001 hotrod has an article on the motown 415 setup. Good start. I would pitch their cam. The block is a real good start. Your talking about pretty close to 4K for a shortblock. Then at least 1500 for heads.

Big cube small blocks are real big bucks. 10K+
Did you see this a while back.
http://www.geocities.com/monty_willi...fications.html

There are issues with going much over a 3.8 inch stroke and about a 4.2 bore. And they have minimal advantages. Keep it to about 410, save bucks, spin it a little higher and it will all work out about the same. I think you will also find that anything close to 550 hp will make almost anyone perfectly happy for an extended period. More just requires a whole lot of suspension work to utilize.

[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited July 10, 2001).]

 

Trouble with going to a big cube small block is that cubic inches need to be filled with air. The only way to easily do it with a SBC is aftermarket heads. Factory heads just won't flow enough to feed big cubic inches.

------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

$220 dollars EACH for lifters on that small block 427 in the link!!!!!! Screw that. I don't want to be different that much.
bsa

------------------
"If they do not run, Then they will die." - Stonewall Jackson
#3
'87 IROC, 355 TPI, Converted to SD, 700R4, B&M Megashifter, 3.42, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads, Edelbrock Intake, Accel Runners, Comp Cam, Crane Gold rockers, Lucas 24# injectors, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster 3'' exhaust, Mallory Ignition, Transgo Performance Shift Kit, Corvette Servo, 2,000 Stall Torque Converter

 

Chevy High Performance hada guy who had an IROC with a small block 400 and a 6 Speed... They detailed out what he did and it rocks.. FAST.....I will see if I can find out what month so you can reference that..

 

Check your source. If they were made out of gold they still wouldn't cost that much. $220 is probably for all 16. I don't have that issue in front of me, but they should be standard sbc lifters.

Chevy also made a 400 ci small block from the factory. Only thing anyone every complained about was overheating, and that's fixable by drilling "steam jackets" in the heads.

------------------
'87 Bird 350 .060 over 700R4 + Lots more

[This message has been edited by ATOMonkey (edited July 11, 2001).]

 

Lifters: JESEL Ultra-Lite
Lifter Part Number: PLF-48401, Cyl. #1,#4,#5,#8
PLF-48402, Cly. #2,#3,#6,#7

Lifter Material: Stainless Steel
Lifter Price: $220.00 each (x8)
Lifter Weight (grams): 215 grams/pair
Lifter Diameter: .842"

Lifter Notes: A 'Spare No Expense' combination of materials and heat treatment specifications that humbles the areospace industry. Precision tiebars, made from fatigue resistant, tempered stainless steel, have lower loads from the low pushrod pivot. Innovative interlocking pin design that works, Period. Hardened thrust washers. Full, smooth thrust surface of RC 70, low pushrod pivot, and unique oiling system reduce ****ing and scraping loads. Roller is crowned to enomously increase contact area.


This guy spent 650 bucks on an oil pump and 1000 for a timing belt.


[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited July 11, 2001).]

 

I am humbled in your presence

------------------
'87 Bird 350 .060 over 700R4 + Lots more

 

SBC and BBC roller lifters are different in most mfrs' product lines. While the lifter itself is the same, the length of the link bars is different because the lifters sit farther apart in the BBC.

A set of basic ones is about $300-350 in most product lines. Several of the mfrs. also offer "upgraded" ones, especially solids.

I have the regular Comp hydraulic rollers in my 400.

Personally I fail to see what sense there would be in buying a racing block and stuffing it with "normal" components. I doubt that merely bolting on a centrifugal blower would stress a block enough to be beyond the limits of a stock block. Like Stephen said, your money would be more wisely spent on the heads. Romantic-sounding expensive all-out racing parts in the bottom end are a waste of money unless you're going all-out racing (World of Outlaws et. al.)

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Tough crowd!

------------------
1982 Corvette Tremec TKO
<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/monty_williams/434specifications.html" TARGET=_blank>SBC 427 650hp/580tq
</A>

 

Go with a Donavan block. Go with a 4.215 bore, 3.65 stroke and a 6.250 rod. Also, u could get a GM 400 block. I think they r around 800.

 

One word: MOTOWN! That sumobich is quite a deal as I read about it in the GMHTP that's bundled with PHR this month. If I can ever afford a REAL hardcore engine buildup I'll probably use the Bill Mitchell Motown 427 with different internals.

------------------
"Life is pain! Anyone who says differently is selling something."

 

ATO,

Well, here's another complaint:

My 400 SBC, with beautiful stock crank, rods, and bores turned out to have BOTH decks cracked.

Machinist says it's VERY common in 400 SBC's.

He is now prepping a 350 block for me.

New Plan (parts are ordered):

-383 with old-style 2-piece seal
-Manley bottom end - 4340 crank,6" 4340 rods, forged pistons
-Pro Action 220cc heads, ported and polished,etc.
-Comp Cams short track (oval) solid-lifter cam with duration at .050 of 250/260 and lift at .532/.555
-Holley 850 CFM double pumper on an Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold. (matched to the heads)
-Hooker Super Comp 1-3/4" primary tube headers. Flowmaster muffs.

I retired the original 327 motor in my old Corvette after having to ****** the motor to repair one of Trick Flow's junk valve guides. Figured what the heck, I'll build the 327 back to stone stock, wrap it in grease and plastic in case I ever sell the car, and........

GO PLAY WITH A MONDO 383.

I'm itchin' to get the block back, the car's been parked for 3 weeks now.

Just bought a 1992 LT-1 'vette last week, and am selling my 1987 C-4 this Tuesday.

So for about 2 weeks I own 3 'Vettes.

Whupty-freakin' doo.

Have to say though that the '92 is a heckuva road car.

Oh, I had the '87 up to 140 mph 3 weeks ago, and backed off only because of marginal tire balance.

That L-98 motor really responded to the tricks you guys shared with me.

Thanks, and I'll try to get back here more often.

And, oh yeah.........

The 383 is going into a 3,000 lb. car with 4-speed and 3.55 gears.

Maybe it will run with those new Cobra's......

Eh,yeah, maybe.......


BOR



[This message has been edited by Box of Rocks (edited July 15, 2001).]