I recently bought this rear from a junk yard. I tried an impact wrench but these bolts wont move. what can I do to get these bolts out

 

which bolt? theres lots of them back there. anyway try some penetrating oil. you apply it to the bolt and let it soak in. It then disolves some of the rust and what not that is holding the bolt in. Or try an impact wrench if you have one handy that should spin it right out

edit: sorry missed the part about the impact wrench

[This message has been edited by camaroguy99 (edited July 13, 2001).]

 

being unclear about which bolts you want to remove... remember the ring gear bolts are backward thread (left-hand threads)

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LOBC-- SS-84

92 RS Heritage package with a 305 3" high-flow cat and pipe with a Dynomax 3" in dual 2 1/2" out.

84 El camino- 383 CID, Performer RPM, GMPP vortec heads, Holley 750 D.P.(0-4779c), Crane Energizer 274,Dual 3" Flowmaster 40 Series Exhaust, Turbo 350 (375b), TCI 2500 stall, Richmond 3.42 gears, PST Poly graphite Suspension bushings, PST steering linkage, PST springs, Monte SS sway bays, Wheels from a Third gen(does that count?)

 

the bolts that Im having problems with are the two big bolts that connect the torque arm to the rear and the bolts that connect the lca(lower control arm) to the rear. Im doing this right now on the piece that I brought from the junkyard

 

Yup use some pen. oil and wait a little bit then blast em with the impact.
Might have to soak over night.
after the oil has been applied, use a drift punch and TAP the bolt squarely to set up a vibration between the bolt and nut.



------------------
LOBC-- SS-84

92 RS Heritage package with a 305 3" high-flow cat and pipe with a Dynomax 3" in dual 2 1/2" out.

84 El camino- 383 CID, Performer RPM, GMPP vortec heads, Holley 750 D.P.(0-4779c), Crane Energizer 274,Dual 3" Flowmaster 40 Series Exhaust, Turbo 350 (375b), TCI 2500 stall, Richmond 3.42 gears, PST Poly graphite Suspension bushings, PST steering linkage, PST springs, Monte SS sway bays, Wheels from a Third gen(does that count?)

 

Bring a very long cheater bar to the j-yard to get these. I found it better to have a cheater sooo long that you can get it without laying under the car as these bolts can be very tight and the cars at junkyards are not very hard to tip off them 'welded' rim jackstands.

 

what is a cheater bar??

 

It is a length of pipe that can fit around the handle of the wrench you are using to extend the handle of the wrench. With the longer handle, you can exert more torque to the fastener.

------------------
LOBC-- SS-84

92 RS Heritage package with a 305 3" high-flow cat and pipe with a Dynomax 3" in dual 2 1/2" out.

84 El camino- 383 CID, Performer RPM, GMPP vortec heads, Holley 750 D.P.(0-4779c), Crane Energizer 274,Dual 3" Flowmaster 40 Series Exhaust, Turbo 350 (375b), TCI 2500 stall, Richmond 3.42 gears, PST Poly graphite Suspension bushings, PST steering linkage, PST springs, Monte SS sway bays, Wheels from a Third gen(does that count?)

 

pb blaster
gas wrench always works nice(torch)


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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

I had troub;e getting the bolts off of my rear end to, but there is a trick. Find a pipe that is about 2-3 feet in length that will fit over your socket wrench. Put the wrench on the bolt and the pipe over the wrench. This will give you more torque so the botl will come loose. This is a very helpful homemade tool.

 

Are you attacking the torque arm nut or bolt with the impact wrench? One side's a bolt, one side's a nut; you might have better luck using the impact wrench on the nut. And I guess you're using a back-up wrench on the other side to make sure the whole nut/bolt assembly isn't just spinning freely, right?

If not, the cheater bar's a good idea; you might just need a more powerful impact wrench.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

i sure hope you're going to be using 1/2" drive and socket if you are using a cheater bar.

3/8" drive will break like a licorice stick with all of that torque

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