whata re subframe connecters
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 152
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From: spartanburg, sc
Car: 1989 rs RIP, 96 grand marquis, 92rs
Engine: LO3, 4.6l, L03
Transmission: 700r4, AODE,700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 3.08, 2.73
whata re subframe connecters
im new to this so what are subframce connecters and what do they dan and how much they cost and all that
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Our cars are "unibodies", meaning the body provides part of the frame structure. There is a front "sub-frame" and a rear "sub-frame" to which the front and rear suspension, respectively, attach, with the body in the middle. The body flexes more than a "real" frame would, so the aftermarket has come up with frame-like pieces that "tie" the front and rear sub-frames together.
Click on our sponsor Spohn's button, above, and follow the links to see one (very fine) example.
Click on our sponsor Spohn's button, above, and follow the links to see one (very fine) example.
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Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 152
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From: spartanburg, sc
Car: 1989 rs RIP, 96 grand marquis, 92rs
Engine: LO3, 4.6l, L03
Transmission: 700r4, AODE,700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 3.08, 2.73
are they hard to install and how much do they help the car
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
They help a lot. The car feels more solid.
You can buy bolt in ones, where you just, (ready for a shocker here?), bolt them in.. but the bolts tend to ovalize the holes and "wear out" fast...
The other choice is weld in. If you have a welder, you're set.
Do a search, most members have them, and will have a picture of them in, so you can see what it lookes like...
Or of course Spohns website.
You can buy bolt in ones, where you just, (ready for a shocker here?), bolt them in.. but the bolts tend to ovalize the holes and "wear out" fast...
The other choice is weld in. If you have a welder, you're set.
Do a search, most members have them, and will have a picture of them in, so you can see what it lookes like...
Or of course Spohns website.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 31
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From: Wisconsin
Car: 88 Camaro <--hope to get a new one soon!
hey has anyone installed SFC w/o a lift but instead on stands? how hard would it be? im not sure if i would be able to locate a place with a lift and the fact that i would want to weld it my self doesn't help me much because i don't want to have them instaled be someone else
Thanks
Thanks
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Here's what they look like. Notice the square tubing running down the sides of the car, and crossing toward the center to weld to the "frame" next to the transmission.
If you have to ask what they are, it's probably not a good idea to be doing the install yourself.... the car frame needs to be held straight and square, and if it isn't, the SFCs will hold it permanently in a tweak. For example, I had mine (not the car in this pic) done on a race car jig.
If you have to ask what they are, it's probably not a good idea to be doing the install yourself.... the car frame needs to be held straight and square, and if it isn't, the SFCs will hold it permanently in a tweak. For example, I had mine (not the car in this pic) done on a race car jig.
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 661
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From: Kirkland Washington
Car: 84 Camaro. 90 integra
Engine: LG4, 1.6 (402hp)
Transmission: 700r4, JDM ITR w/ kaaz LSD
hell.. you could probley go out and make your own. just some square tubing. but.........i think i am gonna buy them
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 661
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From: Kirkland Washington
Car: 84 Camaro. 90 integra
Engine: LG4, 1.6 (402hp)
Transmission: 700r4, JDM ITR w/ kaaz LSD
does that clear stock exhuast on the pass. side? or do you have to take the exhuast off when you weld them in?
How hard would it be to make your own subframe connectors? My friend's dad is an ironsmith so he can get all sorts of steel. And he has like 4 different welding machines. So as long as I can find an example to get the dimensions from and stuff it should work fine right? As long as we weld them properly they should hold fine right? Would be alot cheaper than going out and buying a set.
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From: Brighton, CO
Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
not very hard at all, but it's usually easier (and they look nicer) to spend the 150 and buy them.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 90
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From: Overland Park in the Great State of KANSAS
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: 468 ci
Transmission: thm 350
Buy the bolt ins, install them, pull your carpet back above them, take it to a muffler shop and have them stitch them in. Weld ins require you to take all the carpet and seats out, cut slots in your floor boards install the sub-frames, then weld the total length both sides of the sub-frames. then you get to put your interior back in and hope they don't interfere with anything. While your under there, install a drive shaft loop especially if you have a steel drive shaft.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 708
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
Why the hell do you have to mess with the interior to install the weld-ins?
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 708
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
I bought the Spohn SFC weld on, but i was disappointed in the apprerance of them b/c the surface was just bare metal...no paint or coating or nothing...they didn't even have the Spohn label/sticker that you see in the pictue on their site....those SFC are 200 bucks and i think they should have been a little nicer looking
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