I started up my 89 iroc 5.7 tpi car was running smooth for about 5 minutes all of a sudden it stalled. I tried starting it again and it started but the ran like crap and if i tried to give it gas it would break up, backfire out the exhaust ,the tach would jump all over the place, and the service engine light goes on and off constantly while it is running, then the car would stall again so i wiggled the ground wire going from the battery to the head and the car started right up and ran beautiful, so i replaced the ground wire everything is tight no corrosion car seemed to be fine. Later that day i went to take the car for a ride and i didnt even get a 1/4 mile down the road and the car started acting up like i mentioned earlier i barely got it home. I checked all my vacume lines none are broken car was just tuned up new plugs wires cap and rotor
I checked my ground wire and it was fine also sometimes when i have the car barely running it will blow the guage fuse i cant figure it out PLEASE HELP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PS. the car is not throwing any trouble codes either.

 

replacing chacters for letters or other wise by passing the censered word filter is a very good way to get banned or probation.

 

have your battery and alternator tested at autozone... it's a starting point

 

THE BATTERY IS AN OPTIMA AND IT HAS A BRAND NEW 140 AMP ALTERNATOR

 

IT IS? WOW! AWESOME!

 

wow your such a comedian

 

There are only a few things required to allow an engine to run correctly:

* Ignition (spark with adequate energy at the right time).

* Fuel delivery (in the right amount at the right time);

* Mechanical condition (compression and vacuum);

As soon as you determine which of those is lacking, you'll be a lot closer to a solution. Since you have been getting an intermittent SES lamp, scanning for error codes might make that chore a lot easier. Even if the SES doesn't remain lit, there may be a stored code. If all you get is a "12", that may indicate nothing, or it may indicate that the distributor reference pulses are falling off when the engine is in a run cycle.

You can test spark energy easily, and check timing without even getting dirty. You can even "analyze" the electronic spark timing system by bypassing it and checking timing.. If you have timing that is unsteady after bypassing the ESC, check the distributor cap/rotor/coil condition. If spark is weak, check those and the wires. If you have intermittent spark, check all those AND the HEI system (pickup and switching module). Just because the cap. rotor, wires, and plugs are new doesn't mean that they are in good condition. A little moisture and contamination in the distributor can wreak havoc on ignition timing and spark scatter.

You can test fuel pressure to help analyze that system. If pressure is correct, check the FPR for leakage, check the injectors for firing pulses, and look at all the vacuum hoses and other potential vacuum leaks. Remember that part of a good fuel system is having good fuel. If your's is old, stale, contaminated, or has collected moisture, you won't get satisfactory operation regardless of whatever else you do.

As for mechanical condition, a quick vacuum test at idle and various RPMs can help indicate a valve sealing/timing problem, vacuum leakage, or possibly other problems. A compression or cylinder leakage test will help diagnose any mechanical problems even further. I saved the "mechanical" part for last, since it is less likely to be a problem. Chances are that you'll find a problem with ignition or fuel delivery.

 

Yah, I had a similar problem, and it was ground wires. Strange how those can cause pretty much ANY problem in these cars!