Advice for newbie.......Smog crap
Advice for newbie.......Smog crap
How do I go about removing the smog crap from my 84 Z28?? I just want to make sure that I don't do something that I would regret.
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Scott
84 Z28 305
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Scott
84 Z28 305
You can take the air pump off no problem. Just unbolt it fromt its bracket, remove all the hoses and plug the stuff coming off of the exhaust manifolds. The belt for the air pump doesn't drive anything else so you can just throw it away, or hold onto it if you want.
bsa
bsa
What is the best way to cap off the tubes coming from the manifold? Also, isn't there a tube on passenger side of compartment that runs to the back and behind the engine? I assume it ties back into exhaust system somehow?? What do I do with this?
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Scott
84 Z28 305
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Scott
84 Z28 305
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 490
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From: Mt. Home, ID
Car: 1986 IROC
Engine: 305 going to 355
Transmission: 700R4
That line going behind the engine should be going to the catalytic converter. You should be able to cap it off.
Mark
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1986 IROC LG4 "Bone Stock" (for now)
Mark
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1986 IROC LG4 "Bone Stock" (for now)
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
1/2" pipe cap-offs work well. The fittings that the check valves normally thread onto are standard 1/2" pipe thread. The one in the back that leads to the converter is also a 1/2". You may want to remove those stainless steel pipes from the manifolds themselves as well. To cap off those holes you will need 8 1/4" npt block off fittings. A friend of mine just did this mod and his engine bay looks really nice now. Removing the entire AIR system really does wonders
- it probably runs cooler in general now as well, due to the increase in airflow over the engine itself.......
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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2300 stall, Hotchkis STB.
- it probably runs cooler in general now as well, due to the increase in airflow over the engine itself.......
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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2300 stall, Hotchkis STB.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 0
From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Just to clarify, the fittings in the manifolds are 1/4" npt and you will need 8 of them. I just reread my post and I even confused myself a little bit....
...... doh....
...... doh.... Senior Member
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 720
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From: Shakopee, Mn
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: T5
Hey that must be some friend that did that to his engine bay. I bet that the valve covers look really good probably even better than a certain persons really stout 355.
Actually I am that friend it makes a HUGE difference I would say get rid of the WHOLE thing AIR tubes and all it will clean up the engine bay nicely. I am glad I did it. Thanks Matt.
Actually I am that friend it makes a HUGE difference I would say get rid of the WHOLE thing AIR tubes and all it will clean up the engine bay nicely. I am glad I did it. Thanks Matt. Thread
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