Guys-

Lately, my IROC has been having some trouble starting up...

Basically, it was getting new tires put on at "Big O", when I got a call from the shop saying the starter had gone out. They agreed to take out the starter and have it reworked, and the following day I picked it up, and all was well.. I figured a 10 year old starter is as old as you want it to get.

Anyway, 4 days go by, everything is fine. I went back to "Big O" to get an alignment done, and sure enough, I go to move my car, and it just "clicks" (the solenoid engages, but the engine doesn't crank, only ONE click, NOT a series of clicks). I try a couple more times, and nothing... so I leave it with them again. Turns out the battery cable was loose, and got drained (maybe as a result of me trying to start it?). They gave it a new battery, and again, reworked the starter....

Well, here I am now, and the car is not starting like it should again. If the car sits for a few hours (overnight), it cranks up fine. But if I drive it, or turn it on and let it sit, and then turn it off, when I turn the key again, I just get a "click", the dash lights up (as it should)...but I just get a click, and it doesn't turn over. Usually after the 3rd or 4th try it will fire up.

It's not that it's cranking and then failing, once I get it to engage, it turns right over right away...but like I said, it has been just "clicking" alot and I need to get it fixed. I need my car to fire up properly, everytime.

The battery is brand new, and I know it's connected because when I turn the key, the panel lights up so I know I have power. I also fail to see how 2 reworked starters could be malfunctioning in a row...

Is there any other part of the start-up process that could be causing this?

I'm getting a single solenoid "click", and a dash board light up, and that's it.

My dad mentioned something in the steering wheel shaft might not be sending a signal when I turn the key, do I need to have this replaced?

I can't think of anything else, any ideas?

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Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Color: Artic White w/ Gold decals
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ Overdrive
Wheels: 16" 1992 Z-28 rims (w/ white trim)
Tires: Z-rated Fulda Extremos 245/50/16s (new)
Extra: T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Koni shocks, K&N Air, Edelbrock catback exhaust (soon)

 

What did they do to the starter? Clean it off =P I wouldn't have anyone "rework" my starter, you can replace it for 50 bucks by yourself. You shouldn't have to buy a new battery because it got drained, I think Big-O is trying to make some money off of you. I wouldn't take it back there again if your problems started there.

Do you have headers? Maybe you need a solenoid heat shield. Check everything yourself, mechanics at these chain places aren't known to be the greatest. I wouldn't doubt that the starter has a problem.

 

Damnit, I am getting ripped off left and right with this car!

Actually, I got the new battery and starter for free, some kind of quality assurance thing they gave me, but still, damn!

No, I don't have headers...wish I did, lol

So, should I take it to a real mechaninc and have him look at it, or what? Thanks

------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Color: Artic White w/ Gold decals
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ Overdrive
Wheels: 16" 1992 Z-28 rims (w/ white trim)
Tires: Z-rated Fulda Extremos 245/50/16s (new)
Extra: T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Koni shocks, K&N Air, Edelbrock catback exhaust (soon)

[This message has been edited by 1990 IROCZ (edited July 18, 2001).]

 

I don't know.. But mine has been doing that since we got it a year ago.... And when it's really hot and ive been driving for a lil bit it will not start for about 5 min...

i'm thinking the heat has something with it but when I go to start it in the morning sometime... I'll turn the key and Click but no start. turn the key a couple more time 2 or 3 and it will start no prob... at first i through it was a connection thing becuase I would move the key in and out or whichever way and it would start.. but when its really hot it has no effect....

Any ideas guys.. Thx..

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92 Camaro 305 TBI Automatic
2.5 high flow cat
2.5 pipes
3.5in tip
shift kit
Tinted windows(legal)
Spark plug wires and plugs...
14X3 O.E. K&N Filter

Future mods.
Headers
any other advise on getting to 300+ HP would be appreciated. Thanks
---------
System = Sony explode 5000 CD/MD receiver
Rockford 6x9 Fanatics
Rockford 4x6 Fanatics
Rockford 2 12" Hx2's
Rockford 1 farad cap
Rockford 800x2 Amp
Custom box
4gauge wire kit

 

92, I think you may have a VATS problem. VATS was put in starting in 1991, if you have a little chip in your key it may be your trouble. You can read up on it somewhere around these boards, I know some of the regional websites will tell you how to bypass it, just to see if that fixes your problem.

1990, I don't want to make you doubt Big-O, just have had bad experiences myself with places like that. If you hear a click and the starter doesn't engage, either there is a problem with the solenoid, or the starter isn't getting enough power. If it will start later, I would suspect the former. It could be the connection down there, when it doesn't start you could try bypassing the solenoid. If that works, you found the problem. Once again, I really don't know what they did to your car, though.

 

I have an 89 and it has VATS. I thought if it were a VATS prob then the starter wouldn't engage at all (no clicks)? But, it's definitely worth looking into.

[This message has been edited by 89cam305 (edited July 18, 2001).]

 

ignition switch?

starter solenoid?

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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

Thanks Rezinn, how do I "bypass" the solenoid? Doesn't the starter require it to start the car up?

I'm thinking about just putting in a whole new starter like you said, it's not too much and would be good just for my own piece of mind since I don't know what Big-O did. I'm also gonna check out the ignition switch (thanks Colin), that could very well be the problem.

I didn't like the sound of a "rework" either, but I figured the guys should have known what they were doin, lol... oh well!

------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Color: Artic White w/ Gold decals
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ Overdrive
Wheels: 16" 1992 Z-28 rims (w/ white trim)
Tires: Z-rated Fulda Extremos 245/50/16s (new)
Extra: T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Koni shocks, K&N Air, Edelbrock catback exhaust (soon)

[This message has been edited by 1990 IROCZ (edited July 18, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by 1990 IROCZ (edited July 18, 2001).]

 

I don't know if this reply is too late since the last reply was yesterday. But anyway. I had about the same problem a few weeks ago. I would have dome light dash and all, but when I turned. the key nothing would happen. I tested the selenoid, jumper wire (read aobut it in this sight if you don't know how). Selenoid works fine and the starter would crank. Anyway heres what I did. I changed the battery cables. All of them. THe battery to ground, battery to starter, and alt to Battery. Got the power cables from Auto Zone, new 6 gauge, studs and all, cost was less than 20 bucks. Now my car starts like a charm, don't have problems with heat anymore, mine would do the same thing after is got hot, I got stuck at stores all the time, until the car cooled off. So I personally started with that, and hey if that doesn't help AT ALL, well then it is a peace of mind thing I guess.

 

I was having that problem for about six months. After fixing the alternator and replacing the battery twice, I found that I had a drain on the battery coming from the steering column. I disconnected the horn relay, and I have yet to have the problem since then. I have no horn, but it starts no matter how hot the engine is now. I have an aftermarket steering wheel. I think it is grounding something, but it is stuck on and I can't get it off without hiring a locksmith. Ah the things I could do with money.

[This message has been edited by watchmesuck (edited July 19, 2001).]

 

Thanks guys!

Getting under there, and changing out all the wires/cables is not a bad idea...my battery connectors are really beaten up, practically rounded off, and I haven't even looked at the other stuff...

I'll double up on the solenoid too, but it should be new.

Disconnecting the horn helped? Hmm.... I never use my horn, instead I yell, lol... just kidding. But I would glady unhook the horn if it improved my starting in a heartbeat.

Thanks again

------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Color: Artic White w/ Gold decals
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ Overdrive
Wheels: 16" 1992 Z-28 rims (w/ white trim)
Tires: Z-rated Fulda Extremos 245/50/16s (new)
Extra: T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Koni shocks, K&N Air, Edelbrock catback exhaust (soon)

 

It is worth a shot. All you have to do is pull the horn relay and start the car up. If it doesn't start after you turn it off, just plug the relay back in. You can always just get a meter and see if the horn is pulling from the battery. Let me know if the horn was your problem. It would be nice to know that I wasn't the only one in the world who had that problem.

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1984 Z28 Camaro
Mods: Too much to list right now.

One of these days I'll actually be ok with what I posted the first time.

[This message has been edited by watchmesuck (edited July 19, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by watchmesuck (edited July 19, 2001).]

 

Ok, I don't know if this will be any help, but I had the same problems as you are. I replaced the battery, cables, ignition switch, and had the starter checked. The starter would turn over about 70% of the time, but when it failed all the dash lights worked, and the solenoid WOULD click. I had the starter dissassembled and the solenoid turned out to be bad after all. When you turn on the key the Security light will blink. You can use the number of blinks to determine if the switch is reading the key or not. I thought I had a vats problem and had replaced the ignition switch, but the problem remained. This drove me crazy, but since the solenoid was replaced, for $30.00 by the way, the problem never returned. The car starts a lot better now and never hesitates. Hope you find the problem.

 

To bypass the solenoid you need to connect the power coming into the solenoid to the screw where the solenoid connects to the starter. They are right next to eachother so a screwdriver will work. Be careful, you could get quite a shock. If it starts this way, the problem is your solenoid.

I was under the impression that VATS started in 1991. Don't know where I heard that.

Good luck!