What would most of you recommend?

 

The best oil is typically full synthetic, Mobil 1 or AMSOIL are the favorites on this board.

The oil filter is just as important as the oil. Mobil 1's are great.

THOUGH ----

If you have any oil leaks currently, then the synthetics will just make it worse since it's thinner oil. If so, use any conventional oil that you'd like. some cheap Penzoil or whatever you were using before would suffice. I would still suggest a Mobil 1 oil filter even if you use cheap oil... dont need metal running around ruining the bearings in your motor so you get to rebuild it (ask me how I know )

 

Mobil1 filters are excellent. So are K&Ns.

I have a 305, I run Mobil1 oil and either an M1 or K&N filter.

 

Really, I think you will be fine with almost any recognizable dyno juice, as long as you change it at 3000 miles or so. Should work well on any street engine.

 

I'm still running M1 5W-30 in a almost 400K engine and the oil pressure is still good. I'm about to retire it. Go figure.

 

Hate to quote myself but that was my 302'nd post which should have a special place in any CHEVY F-Body's guys head.

 

I use valvoline and k/n oil filter

 

They make one of the best oil filters you can buy. That and a M1 filter.

Don't use their air filters tho.

Oil analysis tests coming back on k&n filters is showing a lot of dirt is getting into the engine.

It's getting past that leaky as a fence of a M1 air filter. Lots of them have been sold. Now let the truth be known.

 

Mobil-1 synthetic 10-W30, and a K&N filter.

 

Synthetic oil is not thinner than dyno juice oil. It is however thick you buy it at, the difference between synthetic and dyno with viscosity is that synthetic usually retains it's viscosity over a wider range of temperature and time, whereas dyno will vary (thicker as it's colder and thinner when hotter and thicker as it gets older).

K&N is gauze. Regardless of their saying that the oil in the gauze allows it to trap more particles than other filters, it sucks at filtration. Add foam to it and you get something with decent filtration and still able to be re-useable. Anyone who's not had a problem with K&N should not consider their experience to be authoritive on the filtration abilities of the filter, my grandfather runs his van without a filter at all and it's still running just as good as when he got it. We dont live in the a dry clean desert like area either. Quite the opposite.

As long as you dont leak oil, I would say the only oil you should be using is some Mobil 1 full synthetic. If you have available the best, why not use it. That's like cheaping out on Bushings and getting rubber, when you could get polygraphite.
If you are leaking oil, I'm not suggesting to use dyno because it's "thicker" but because it's really cheap. There is no point in pouring your money on the street.

Endurance tests show that mobil 1 full synthetic is still fully functional after 1 year of use (with regular changes of the oil filter). That's not suggesting you not change your oil for 1 year, but if it can last that long under normal use, it should last your regular interval under extreme use much better than any regular or other type of oil.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

 

how does red line and royal purple oil compare to mobile 1?

 

I hear that RP street oils sheer down (get thinner) with age. M1 doesn't sheer nearly as much.

I hear good things about RL as well.

Go to the BITOG website and ask this question. There's oil chemists over there.

 

My bad safemode. I could have sworn I had read that one of the plusses to synthetic was that it's thinner, thus easier for the engine on start-up (which as we all know is the hardest part on an engine's internals since they have no oil at the time on cold startups).

There are plenty of differences between dyno oil and synthetic, and synthetic is superior in almost every way.

 

Personally, I prefer to use oil in my 305, rather than on it...

Synthetics tend to be thinner at temperatures below the temperature at which the viscosity is rated at the "W" temperature, that is true. And, things such as shear strength and film strength, vital lubricant properties, are better with PAO synthetics. Ditto with detergent properties. But, caution is required for the faux synthetics - still probably better than the typical petroleum-based oils, but not as good as the PAO-based synthetics.

In general, 5W-30 is the best all-around weight for typical street use.

 

i work at an auto parts place and all the ASE guys tell me synthetic is thinner and is not necessary to use unless you have a over head cam as its not as thick and can get up in there in the mornin when u start it up....but it offers more protection sooo who cares use synthetic....i mean crap mobil 1 now has new full synthetic that you can go 15,000 miles on before changin....its gotta be good if it can last that long

 

Most ASE guys don't know hooie about oils, lubrication, or API/SAE specifications. Sorry, no flame intended, that's just the plain truth.

AMSOIL has been recommending 25,000 mile or 1 year oil changes for most of their products since the early 70's (some products will go longer, others shorter intervals). Mobil 1 tells you to follow the manufacturer's oil change recommendations until the warranty expires. Who's more confident in their product?

Let's not turn this into another oil mis-information spasm. If you want to know everyone's opinion about what oil to use,