Alllllllrighty, for a reason as of yet undetermined, my radiator fan (single) doesn't come on until right about the temperature goes into the redline. I know that' way too high.

Thing is, I can't for the life of me figure out why. It can't be a faulty connection.. I can't imagine how bad wiring would make it turn on at 250something and off at 220. It's not the gauge being off, when I'm driving around town or cruising on the highway, it's right at about 180 like it should be. It's not the fan switch OR the ECU temperature sending unit, I've replaced both of those and haven't noticed any difference. And they don't have the same type of connectors on them, so it's not like I could mess that up. The fan DOES work, it works if I let it get really hot, and it works if I switch the AC on. I did ask for the fan switch for a single-fan setup on my car; I was pretty sure the secondary fan (on two-fan cars) came on at a pretty high temperature.

I need some help here.. This is becoming quite frustrating. I usually don't have a need to run the fan, because my car cools rather nicely (guess I got lucky there), it's just that I don't want to have to manually switch my fan on every time the temperature gets up to 220, when the car SHOULD be doing that on it's own. I also can't let friends drive the car when it's like this, because they wouldn't know any better. And if I ever WAS going to sell my baby (God forbid), whoever got it probably wouldn't pay any attention to my warnings. So, PLEASE help out here. I'm open to just about anything.

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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

 

maybe a bad relay,(Driver side along the firewall)Not sure if thats the one ya replaced.Where were the switches that ya replaced?

 

there is a stupid sensor which makes it come on around 220. Where I live its too hot to wait for that fan to come on by itself. I have mine rigged to come on as soon as I start the car. I suggest doing the same thing. Mine never goes over 115 now, unless I have the air on then it floates around 220.

But don't let your car get around 240, not good to have it that hott. Just my 2 cents. Hope it helped. Peace.


PS: maybe you can't see a reason for runnign the fan, but I think running it all the time is just best. At least in my climate zone.

[This message has been edited by un4givin89 (edited July 25, 2001).]

 

It seems to me that if it WAS a relay, it just wouldn't come on at all, or come on intermittently, not just at a higher temperature range. The switches I replaced were the one in the intake manifold and the one in the passenger side head.

I know 240 is too hot, which is why I wanna get this thing fixed It gets into the 90's here, but my car never sees over 180 when I'm driving. I usually have the AC on, and even then the fan keeps it around 180. And if you really meant 115, that's wayyyyyyyyy too cool. heh

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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

 

Enkil,
I replaced my a while back (passenger side head) and 4 months later I had to replace it again. It went bad already. Mine still does not come on till around 230 degrees. If you find one that will kick it on sooner send me an email.
Later,
Craig

 

Maybe its the guage itself.

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88' GTA 350 MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass

 

The stock fan turn on temp on a 86 T/A is 234°. Maybe GM caught a clue by the time your car was manufactured but I doubt it.

I would suggest an adjustable fan temp switch to set it where you feel comfortable.

 

But the problem is, my car's fan doesn't turn on stock.

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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

 

Try installing a 220 ohm resistor in the sensor socket in place of the gauge sender. A 220 is a standard value and should indicate 205°F. A 135 ohm precision resistor will yield a 220°F gauge reading, but the resistor might be a little more difficult to find.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
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