in order to turn my 350 block into a 383. wat would my cylinder's diameter be and wat would my crank have to be. i dont kno the exact dimensions of wat to do.

 

If your not sure on what you want to do i would highly recomend consulting a engine builder, or if your shy or dont have much time, buy a book, i recomend "How To Build Max Performance Small block Chevys On A Budget" By David Vizard. He will cover all the engine building specs you could want.

But anyways, for a 383 Cu In Displacement, its based off rebuilding a 350, meaning you boar the cylenders .030 over, then add a crank with a 3.75" stroke (same stroke thats stock in a 400) VS the stock 350 stroke of 3.48". Parts wise you will need a new crank, and new pistions. And if its externaly ballanced a 400 flexplate and balancer.

 

Anyone on here had any emissions problems running a stroked/bored block? I know a basic overbore doesn't have any effect, but I'm curious if a bigger stroke would/does? Am curious, cause when I get my IROC and rebuild the engine, it would make sense to go ahead and change out the crank, since I'll have to tear it down anyways to get the pistons and whatnot (also, I'll be supercharging it, so more cubes would mean more blown fun).

 

Do a search, many people have passed emissions with a 383 and a good sized cam. Get a good tune and a cat or two.

If you are considering a supercharged 383, that will be, expensive. We are talking forged expensive.

 

That would depend on how much boost he's planning on running.

 

ProCharger at about 12psi with intercooler. I figure the forged 383 kits are about a grand, plus $500 or so for a good forged crank, and another grand or two to have a shop rebuild it (alas, I have no garage space for a good while - I might be able to get shop space though, as I just found out my new sister-in-law's father is a racer by trade, so I KNOW he has to have a nice shop somewhere). Then the blower for about three grand and I have a nice, 400+hp car that'll run on pump gas. Just hope it passes emissions.

Oh, and the cam would be relatively mild, as I'd still want to run all my power accessories and whatnot (this'll be my daily driver). Eventually I'll get heads (AFR) and headers (Edelbrock), but they'll all be emissions legal parts. I might do the heads/headers first so I can have good power while I save up for the blower.

The problem is I'm moving to Seattle in a few weeks (well, Kent, but it's the same difference) and they have state run inspection stations. Whereas here in Texas, you can buy an inspection sticker at most tire shops for $20 and be done with it (assuming you're not driving a car that is very obviously not street legal, and even then it has to be something visual like broken windshield, no taillights, et cetera). So, needless to say, I am a bit worried about spending a lot of time/money on a car that fails, and then having to spend even more time/money on switching back stock parts for it to pass, then having to spend more time switching back the aftermarket parts after I get my sticker. Still, even if I did this, I'd only have to do it once every two years (the inspections are on two year cycles up there, vs. one year down here), which wouldn't be a problem if I had garage space - which I don't.

 

I used a 4.060" aluminum forged flat-top 16cc dished piston with a 1.125" compression height, 6" connection rods, and a 3.75" crank stroke for a 350, with a 9.000" block deck height (3.75"/2+6"+1.125"=9"±0.002") to get a 388.
For a 383 the piston needs to 4.030" in diameter.
I didn't use any 400 block parts on my engine.

The standard SBC deck height is 9.025" use the formula 1/2stroke+rod length+piston compression heght to match your block's deck height (from center of crank to head surface of block.) or as suggested let an engine builder do it for you.

A note on supercharging, there's more to it than this: Low boost with high CR, or high boost with low CR, the later is prefered, the rest you'll have to learn on you own.

 

I'm thinking of running about an 8.5:1 compression ratio. That way, while I'm tooling around town without the blower (i.e. saving up for it), I'll get decent gas mileage and still have decent performance (especially if I do the heads/headers first).

But, like I said, it's most likely I'll have a shop do it for me. Even if I can find the garage space, I don't think I could afford the down time of doing it myself, as I'm selling my 04 Dakota to finance this little dream car o mine.

 

how much money am i really lookin if i wanna seriously have a nasty 383?

 

How long is a piece of string?

What's a "nasty" 383?

 

You can get a 383 rebuild kit for the L98 for under a thousand bucks, if you're willing to get cast parts. Not a nitrous/blower friendly kit, but it gets you up to 383 cubic inches cheap and is pretty reliable day to day.

 

cost and results are tied together, more so inversly. that is if you skimp on parts and machine work your results may not be what you'd wanted. if you can't afford it wait until you can.

 

Well lets see...

I'll use my engine for an example...

383 kit with Forged Rods and Pistons - $950
Block, Machine Work and Assembly (short block) - $1100
AFR 195 cc Street Heads, Upgraded Springs, Plus all sensor holes - $1,550
Main Bolts, Head Bolts, Gaskets, Timing Set, Lifters, Rocker Arms, Oil Pump, Injectors, Other Bolts... blah blah, etc - $700
Camshaft - $250
TPIS Bigmouth Intake Base - $400
Edelbrock Runners - $250


So I'm at about $5,200 right now. Plus I still need pushrods, some more bolts, a few more gaskets and sensors here and there, plus some free time. Not to mention the other parts on my car I need to upgrade/replace before I can run this engine. Now if I wanted to add a supercharger I would guess it would be about $3,000 for a nice supercharger kit. That would put me pretty close to $8,500 for the whole engine... not to mention all the other things that would need to be upgraded (tranny, rear end...etc)

It could possibly turn out very very expensive. Now I have to say you could probably pull it off a lot cheaper than I have calculated, it would all depend on what you bought and what kind of prices you could find. I bought quality everything, which ended up costing a lot in the end, I am sure you can find cheaper things, but will they hold up?

I know I don't want something coming apart and taking out the whole engine, not with the amount of money I spent on everything.

 

ya thats how i wanna do it. i want the engine to be able to handle w/e. i also will be putting a s/c on it later in life. maybe much later, but money is not the biggest deal because i can work on this engine for as long as i need.