I read through all the posts about this and checked the archives and still have Q's.

About two months ago i starting getting this hot start problem. When trying to start, no clicking, no voltage drop, nothing, until the car cooled off and then it would fire up like nothing was wrong. I figure this was a problem with the starter switch heat
soaking (correct me if i'm wrong).

So i bought a rebuilt starter (starter and solenoid together), installed and everything was fine until last weekend. Now, with the car hot, i try to start it, but does'nt start. But this time, i see a voltage drop on the guage, still no clicking or any sound. This is leading me to believe that the switch is fine (getting power and energizing the solenoid), but the pin (or whatever pulls the bendix into place) is binding when warm (is that a good assesment).

Is there any solution for this, i've already opened the starter and checked for binding.
The starter and solenoid i bought are from a local parts store, i'm wondering if there is a quality or specification difference compared to a GM solenoid (after all it cost about 4 times more). In that case should i fork out some more dough on that GM solenoid.

I've heard also that F*rd solenoids are better for heat application, is there a part number that will fit on our GM SBC's.

I'd like some sugestions on what to do, as i'm getting really tired of removing and reinstalling this starter over and over.

Thanks for bearing with me,



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Sat "IROCkid" Bimrah
1989 IROC-Z 5.0 L / 5 spd

 

Sounds like you got another starter that has the same problem as your old one... take it back, trade it for another one.

Or, if you really want to end it for all time, get a CVR or other similar "mini-starter". The stock GM one is the crappiest starter made in the world I do believe; I have a CVR on my car, it's so much more powerful than the best stock one I ever had, it's like it's not even the same engine.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Well for what it's worth I had similar problems and just cured them.

When my car was good and warm I got a big fat voltage drop when trying to crank the car. It was really strange, I was testing some yesterday with a voltmeter and junk and saw that when I tried to crank it, I lost all power to the car completely, couldn't turn on the lights, interior junk didn't work etc. But the battery still had 12 volts and was just fine. After approx one minute I would regain all power to everything. It did this multiple times, same effect, all power gone, wait one minute or so and all power is back. I have no idea why it did that, anyone know if that is some kind of safety feature or what? (How can the battery have power but the rest of the car not, and then it just switch back on without it being a safety switch? Couldn't find anything in electrical diagram...) As it cooled down a bit more it would get to the point where the voltage wouldn't cut out completely like that anymore, it would just dip down a couple volts. But the thing still didn't even try to start, no clicks, etc. Then after long enough (about 45 minutes from initial shut off) it would fire off like nothing was wrong. I wasn't sure it was just the solenoid, I thought maybe the whole starter motor was dead or something as that was some seriously screwy behavior. Figured I'd try the remote mount kit anyway...

I snagged a Mr Gasket remote mount solenoid kit and just put it on today. Blammo, no more voltage drop, no more problems what so ever. Sucker fires off repeatedly without fail whether the cars hot or not. I got the Mr Gasket kit for $40 at a local performance auto parts store. I had tried to get the similar kit that Summit sells for a little cheaper but they've been sold out for awhile and still won't get any for another 2-3 weeks they said. Didn't see a kit at all in Jegs.

Anyway, it fixed the problem and frankly wasn't very hard to install at all (you don't even remove the stock solenoid, just put a little plate on it that bypasses it). You do need to buy an extra piece of battery cable to complete the install though.

Anyway, all that screwy behavior was all the solenoid believe it or not. I have to say I'm relieved, and still confused on what the hell was happening. I guess it doesn't matter.

The reason people say F*rd solenoids are better is because they are remote mounted solenoids already. Wouldn't suprise me if the solenoid in these remote mount kits was actually just a Ford solenoid with some extra stuff to get the swap done...

Not saying this is your problem though, god only knows when it comes to screwy electrical crap... I'd return the starter you just bought for another anyway just to be sure, but I'd do the remote mount solenoid kit on it anyway. Cheap insurance against the new one wearing out prematurely.

I'm assuming you've got headers right?

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Ray87Z
-Vortec headed 350.
86 IROC w/ a cammed 305 TPI.
Formerly Ray86IROC.
www.inter-scape.com/Ray

[This message has been edited by Ray87Z (edited August 05, 2001).]

 

Ok thanks guys.
I'll get another starter tommorow and see how that goes. Meanwhile i'll try to find a relocation kit.

About the mini-starter, dont they use the same solenoid (therefore suffer from the same problem) and do they fit almost stock 305's.



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Sat "IROCkid" Bimrah
1989 IROC-Z 5.0 L / 5 spd

 

Dude, get yourself a starter heatshield,$15 and problem solved.Also the red wire from the starter to the solinoid, could be getting baked, remove it and replace it with a heavier gauge, eg. 10 or 12 gauge. I had the same problems and solved them this way.Easy and cheap.

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91'1LE Z28
K&N Filter , Headman Headers & Y Pipe. Invisable cats, Flowmaster 40 series.(just getting started)All show with a little bit of go.

 

I'm having the same problem, and a heat shield didn't do the trick