Here is my scenario... 92 RS, 305, standard shift, 141k. This car gets hot whenever it feels like it but never on the highway. I can't understand why it's fine in 100 degree weather, in traffic some days and others it will get on the border of the red zone. Sure it plays aroung in the 220 zone but from what I have read that is normal.

Here is what has been done:
New radiator
New thermo (not sure what degree but will swap to a 160)
New cap
Nice pretty green goo in the system but recently went to about 60/40.
Got all the air dam business
Got those fancy foam things around the radiator.

So when I decided to drain some green and add water I started it up with the cap off and all was normal. Once the thermo opened up it would suck liquid on in. All good, about to add some water... Then I see it starting to come back at me and belch some over the top. Then the cycle starts again... Suck it in and then start to fill and belch. I have never seen this before. Any thoughts on what is going on? I plan to flush, replace hoses and thermo but was wondering if there were any ideas here. Is this normal? Is the water pump dying? Could blockage be causing this?

Thanks...
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Kiss_My_SS
1992 Camaro RS/Heritage Package
1996 Impala SS
1985 Good ol' Chevy 4x4 Truck

 

it is most likely your water pump, if it is pumping abnormally like you say. I'd say to just go buy a new one from advance auto/partsamerica.com. I got a new one for $25. That part was my problem.

 

My 89 RS is doing the same damn thing and its been overheating! It will suck the coolant down and then seconds later it will come back up and pour out of the radiator filler neck. Then it starts the cycle over. Any other ideas besides the possibility of the water pump?

[This message has been edited by 89cam305 (edited July 23, 2001).]

 

Blown head gasket?

 

I had a VW Jetta that did that. A new head gasket cured the problem.

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89 Transam GTA, 350TPI, auto, 3.27 rear, dual cats, gray.
Magnaflow cat-back,
K&N open element,
Best E.T. 14.63@95mph

 

Thanks for all the advice. Here is one more thing I forgot to add. Awhile back the fan had died and I tried everything to figure out why. Once I gave up and took it to a shop they hooked it up to their fancy computer and figured out it was the fan relay. So that got done. They had also mentioned that the car would run warm because it needed a new manifold gasket. Could this be true? Anyone ever heard of that?

Thanks......


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Kiss_My_SS
1992 Camaro RS/Heritage Package
1996 Impala SS
1985 Good ol' Chevy 4x4 Truck

 

Ummm, before you go replacing head gaskets and water pumps...

When the car is cool, water will not flow past the thermostat. Eventually, the coolant will heat up enough (and so will the T-stat) and coolant will be pumped from the radiator into the block. Eventually, the cooler coolant will close the T-stat and it will burp coolant out the open radiator cap. Eventually all the coolant will reach an equal temp and it won't do that...

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

where i live it gets super hott otu. Like it was 98 today I was driving around with the nice cold air on and mine started getting hot in the traffic. Had to roll down my windows, heh. Ever notice how the engine runs alittle rougher with the air on?

 

Ah, understood Biochem, let me take another look at it then. I let it belch about 4-5 times before I added water and closed it up while scratching my head. I drove it today in 100 degree weather and had a few stops, and sat at the bank drive-thru without it getting really near 220. I just don't understand why it freaks out sometimes.

 

Well, judging by your lack of knowledge about burping a cooling system when refilling it (don't take that the wrong way ), I would say that you could have had some air in the system. If you fill up the system without burping it properly, you will likely end up with an air pocket or two or three that will cause some erratic readings from your temp guage as well as do damage if they are big enough.

When refilling a cooling system it is a good idea (you need) to fill the radiator completely and leave the cap off and run the engine for a while with the heater on. Feel the upper radiator hose every once in a while and when it gets hot and stays hot, your thermostat is open and any air pockets that were trapped in the engine by the closed thermostat will be purged. This will also cause the level of the coolant in the radiator to go up and down a bit while the engine warms up - it may even belch some out onto the ground. That is normal. So after you get the air purged out, and the heater is blowing hot air inside the car, you can top off the radiator and the overflow tank and seal the system (put the cap on).

At that point you can atleast remove the possibility of air in the system from your list of possible causes.

That might mean that now that you have purged the system, you won't have any problems anymore.

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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, BBK 52mm TB, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, CAI w/K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2300 stall, Alum. Driveshaft, Hotchkis STB, '99 Camaro seats.

Coming Soon!!: Fourth gen 3.42:1 rear, Spohn LCAs and Panhard.

 

Very cool. Thanks for the information. I will give that a shot and see if anything changes. Again, I still have work that I will do very soon, hoses, thermo, flush. But at least now I know how to make sure everything is good when I put it back together. Any idea on the manifold gasket the shop said to replace or was that just bs? I'm not losing or smelling any coolant. Thanks again for your help.



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Kiss_My_SS
1992 Camaro RS/Heritage Package
1996 Impala SS
1985 Good ol' Chevy 4x4 Truck

 

...or drill 4 small in the body to allow a minimal constant flow. This will prevent "hot pockets" from building in your engine block and will help eliminate air from the cooling system.

 

So do we all agree on a 160 stat for Texas driving?



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Kiss_My_SS
1992 Camaro RS/Heritage Package
1996 Impala SS
1985 Good ol' Chevy 4x4 Truck

 

Depends on your winter. If you have one whereas you would need some heat.... I would go with the 170°. A bit harder to find but it might keep you from having to do the 160/180 flip flop.

 

If the fan kicks in at the normal 200+ temp, a 160 thermostat won't do any good. At 200+ a 195, 180, 160 thermostats all flow(cool) the same.

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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

get the 170* from carparts.com

 

Just wanted to thank everyone for their advice. I got all the air out of the system and the RS is running much better now. Thanks again, this board rocks.



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Kiss_My_SS
1992 Camaro RS/Heritage Package
1996 Impala SS
1985 Good ol' Chevy 4x4 Truck

 

Add a bottle of waterwetter when you do that change and you'll see your temp drop even more!

I swear by that stuff!
Also try the havoline coolant.
Comes in a black bottle and is amber in color. It's very clear and works very good.
We hit a nice comfy temp of 103° today and the car never got past the halfway mark in traffic with the air on. Once we get back underway it drops back down to the 1st mark on the guage.

But I will add we have a 3 row radiator as well, which makes a big difference.

Waterwetter and the havoline make for a great combo in my opinion.

 

I'm gonna try the purging tomorrow. I'm so glad I stumbled upon this post.