NEW OWNER!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 1
From: Caldwell, NJ
Car: 88 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Raptor 700
NEW OWNER!
Hey everybody, I'm a new proud owner of a 1988 Camaro IROC Z Convertible, 5.0L TPI, auto and can't wait until I get my license to fully unleash it, (still 16 unfortunately). But anyways i know this question has probably been asked a million times but are there any websites that sell small accessories like blackouts, decals, just aftermarket stuff for these thirdgen camaros. any posts will be helpful, thanks
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Congrats on getting a great car,
Get a Summit catalog, or check them out online at summitracing.com, I know they sell blackouts.
------------------
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
FLOWMASTER, NO CAT
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat
2:73 GEARS
Rebuilt 700R4, with manual valve body
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite
Soon to be installed
3:73 Richmond Gears and 3" Hooker Aero Chamber
Corvette Servo & .500 boost valve
15.61@ 95.2mph G-Teched, 1-2 shift slippage, and just replaced a burnt plug wire
"There is nothing more addicting than speed"
Get a Summit catalog, or check them out online at summitracing.com, I know they sell blackouts.
------------------
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
FLOWMASTER, NO CAT
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat
2:73 GEARS
Rebuilt 700R4, with manual valve body
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite
Soon to be installed
3:73 Richmond Gears and 3" Hooker Aero Chamber
Corvette Servo & .500 boost valve
15.61@ 95.2mph G-Teched, 1-2 shift slippage, and just replaced a burnt plug wire
"There is nothing more addicting than speed"
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 562
Likes: 0
From: New Port Richey, Florida, USA
Car: 1989 Pontiac GTA Hardtop.
Engine: ZZ4 - 350
Transmission: Garbage
Congrats on your car man, and welcome!!
Mike
------------------
Check out My Car Pics http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/Albu...667&a=13599419
Gran Turismo Americano "The Ultimate Firebird"
Smokin 1989 GTA- Bone stock except for exhaust. (no catalytic-stainless pipe into Flowmaster 2 chamber) & AC Delco Rapid Fire Plugs
Mike
------------------
Check out My Car Pics http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/Albu...667&a=13599419
Gran Turismo Americano "The Ultimate Firebird"
Smokin 1989 GTA- Bone stock except for exhaust. (no catalytic-stainless pipe into Flowmaster 2 chamber) & AC Delco Rapid Fire Plugs
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 19,660
Likes: 310
Nik,
Welcome Aboard!
And incidentally, nice choice for a first vehicle.
I'll give you fair warning ahead of time. If you don't really want to read a bunch of drivel on what you should do to your car, stop now. Otherwise, you 'll get the "full treatment".
With any newly acquired vehicle, it may be impossible to know how it was treated in its former life. Unless you have copies of all the maintenance records, you really don't know how the vehicle was maintained. The seller might have said that he/she "always" changed the oil, and that it was "just tuned up" or "just had brakes", but what was included with the tuneup, and exactly when were the brakes replaced? It's easy to forget dates and mileage, and that tuneup that was "just done" might have been almost a year ago. Because of this, you need to treat any newly acquired vehicle like no service has been done. Take a look at everything. That "tuneup" might have been spark plugs and a spray can of carburetor cleaner - hardly a tuneup by accepted definition. That "brake job" might have been front pads, with no regard for calipers, wheel bearings, brake cables, and the master cylinder. A "rebuilt transmission" might have been a new servo and fluid. Unless you have a hard copy of the repair records, don't presume the previous owner had any idea of what has been done. If you have repair records, you are one of the fortunate few. Most of us get just what we see, and nothing extra. Sometimes we get even less.
Unless there is some obvious glaring problem, it will be beneficial to first perform the routine service that should have been done for a vehicle of that age and mileage. For a small investment in parts and supplies, and some of your time, you can do some meaningful work and learn something about the mass of metal that you will entrust with your life.
Spend a little money and a little more time in, around, and under the vehicle to learn its secrets. Start with a thorough inspection and routine tune up service. After this, many of the little problems you might have experienced may be gone, and any other problems you may encounter will be easier to diagnose since many of the questions and variables will be eliminated.
Perform a basic tune up and general lubrication. Chances are that even if these services were done, they weren't done completely. The factory owner's manual outlines the services necessary at a given mileage or age. If you were lucky, you got an owner's manual with your car. If you were even more fortunate, you have a factory service manual for your vehicle. This goes beyond the outline found in the owner's manual and into detail about the steps to be performed for routine service. It will also become invaluable for troubleshooting and repair of nearly anything you might encounter while you own the vehicle.
Once you've performed all the required routine maintenance, you can assume that everything should be normal, then attack those things that are not. One of these steps should get you closer to solving any problems you might experience, and would cost you a total of less than $200 if you do the work yourself.
RECOMMENDED SERVICE INTERVALS
Depending on the vehicle mileage, start with all fluids and filters. Engine and transmission oils and filters ($40), differential oil and additive ($15), coolant ($15), fuel and air filters ($10), PCV valve (AC only!) EVAP filter (if equipped), vacuum hoses, compression or cylinder leakage test, etc. Continue through the ignition system (NOT just spark plugs), and then the control system and adjustments, like IAC, TPS, timing, replacing the oxygen sensor, etc. Once it's running right, continue with brakes, wheel bearings, steering and suspension, belts and hoses, exhaust, and body lubrication/adjustments.
A basic, thorough tune up and lubrication service is not just changing the oil. This is a generic outline of GM recommended service procedures and intervals. Verify the correct intervals and procedures with your owner's or shop manual.
CHASSIS/BODY LUBE SERVICE
Raise and safely support the vehicle. Get out your garden hose and a soft brush and start washing the underside of the vehicle from front to back. The owners manual specifies that this should be done at least every 15,000 miles or annually. Pay particular attention to the steering and suspension components, body recesses that may hold sand, salt, and road debris. Clean the transmission and tunnel area. Don't forget to flush over the top of the fuel tank.
When everything is dry to the point where you don't get a shower while under the car, wipe off and lubricate all grease fittings on the front suspension and steering with an EP grease (I prefer synthetics). Clean and lubricate the park brake cables with grease. Clean the rubber body and front and rear suspension mounts and bushings, then lubricate with pure silicone spray. Inspect the torque arm and track bar bolts for tightness. Check and fill the differential and manual transmission oil levels. Lubricate pre-1988 rear brake calipers park brake actuator screws with clean brake fluid.
Clean and lubricate all door, T-Top hood, and hatch rubber seals with silicone. Lubricate hinge pins and latches with clean engine oil (NOT spray lube - check the manual). Except for the front wheel bearings, you've now completed a chassis lube the way is needs to be done to satisfy the service manual. In your case, you should also check the hydraulic oil in the roof retract system, and lightly lubricate all pivot points with clean engine oil. Be careful to keep the oil off the canvas.
TUNE UP SERVICE
A basic tune-up MUST include:
* Cooling system inspection;
* Clean or replace spark plugs;
* Ignition wire testing;
* Distributor cap/rotor (if you don't have the OptiSpark);
* PCV valve cleaning or replacement;
* Air filter;
* Cleaning the IAC;
* Check Throttle Position Sensor voltage and adjust as necessary.
* Check/adjust minimum air rate;
* Check/adjust timing;
* Replace the EVAP canister filter (1987 and older cars);
* Code scan;
If you have a fuel injected engine and there are symptoms of poor injector performance, there are a few more steps that must be performed to ensure correct fuel system performance.
The proper steps in fuel injector system service are:
* Check fuel pump operating pressure and volume.
* Test pressure regulator for operation and leakage.
* Flush fuel rail and upper injector screens, including pressure regulator.
* Clean fuel injectors.(* if necessary)
* De-carbon engine assembly.
* Relearn onboard computer.
If there are problems with the fuel injectors, no amount of "tuning" will correct it short of an injector cleaning. This is very rarely solved with the fuel additives that advertise the ability to clean injectors. These are probably best used as maintenance products, to keep clean injectors clean. Once an injector is beginning to fail, it's usually too late for any such product to be successful. The relatively low cost of these additives makes it worth at least trying, but don't expect it to cure all of your problems. If the injectors react well to the fuel additives, consider yourself one of the fortunate few. Most of the time, the injectors need to be removed for complete cleaning.
Once you service all the parts and systems that need attention for a car of your mileage, most of your problems should be non-existent.
You have one of the rarer convertibles that really deserves to be maintained well. This should be a good start. When all this is done, start shopping for the customizing parts you were asking about.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
[This message has been edited by Vader (edited August 12, 2001).]
Welcome Aboard!
And incidentally, nice choice for a first vehicle.
I'll give you fair warning ahead of time. If you don't really want to read a bunch of drivel on what you should do to your car, stop now. Otherwise, you 'll get the "full treatment".
With any newly acquired vehicle, it may be impossible to know how it was treated in its former life. Unless you have copies of all the maintenance records, you really don't know how the vehicle was maintained. The seller might have said that he/she "always" changed the oil, and that it was "just tuned up" or "just had brakes", but what was included with the tuneup, and exactly when were the brakes replaced? It's easy to forget dates and mileage, and that tuneup that was "just done" might have been almost a year ago. Because of this, you need to treat any newly acquired vehicle like no service has been done. Take a look at everything. That "tuneup" might have been spark plugs and a spray can of carburetor cleaner - hardly a tuneup by accepted definition. That "brake job" might have been front pads, with no regard for calipers, wheel bearings, brake cables, and the master cylinder. A "rebuilt transmission" might have been a new servo and fluid. Unless you have a hard copy of the repair records, don't presume the previous owner had any idea of what has been done. If you have repair records, you are one of the fortunate few. Most of us get just what we see, and nothing extra. Sometimes we get even less.
Unless there is some obvious glaring problem, it will be beneficial to first perform the routine service that should have been done for a vehicle of that age and mileage. For a small investment in parts and supplies, and some of your time, you can do some meaningful work and learn something about the mass of metal that you will entrust with your life.
Spend a little money and a little more time in, around, and under the vehicle to learn its secrets. Start with a thorough inspection and routine tune up service. After this, many of the little problems you might have experienced may be gone, and any other problems you may encounter will be easier to diagnose since many of the questions and variables will be eliminated.
Perform a basic tune up and general lubrication. Chances are that even if these services were done, they weren't done completely. The factory owner's manual outlines the services necessary at a given mileage or age. If you were lucky, you got an owner's manual with your car. If you were even more fortunate, you have a factory service manual for your vehicle. This goes beyond the outline found in the owner's manual and into detail about the steps to be performed for routine service. It will also become invaluable for troubleshooting and repair of nearly anything you might encounter while you own the vehicle.
Once you've performed all the required routine maintenance, you can assume that everything should be normal, then attack those things that are not. One of these steps should get you closer to solving any problems you might experience, and would cost you a total of less than $200 if you do the work yourself.
RECOMMENDED SERVICE INTERVALS
Depending on the vehicle mileage, start with all fluids and filters. Engine and transmission oils and filters ($40), differential oil and additive ($15), coolant ($15), fuel and air filters ($10), PCV valve (AC only!) EVAP filter (if equipped), vacuum hoses, compression or cylinder leakage test, etc. Continue through the ignition system (NOT just spark plugs), and then the control system and adjustments, like IAC, TPS, timing, replacing the oxygen sensor, etc. Once it's running right, continue with brakes, wheel bearings, steering and suspension, belts and hoses, exhaust, and body lubrication/adjustments.
A basic, thorough tune up and lubrication service is not just changing the oil. This is a generic outline of GM recommended service procedures and intervals. Verify the correct intervals and procedures with your owner's or shop manual.
CHASSIS/BODY LUBE SERVICE
Raise and safely support the vehicle. Get out your garden hose and a soft brush and start washing the underside of the vehicle from front to back. The owners manual specifies that this should be done at least every 15,000 miles or annually. Pay particular attention to the steering and suspension components, body recesses that may hold sand, salt, and road debris. Clean the transmission and tunnel area. Don't forget to flush over the top of the fuel tank.
When everything is dry to the point where you don't get a shower while under the car, wipe off and lubricate all grease fittings on the front suspension and steering with an EP grease (I prefer synthetics). Clean and lubricate the park brake cables with grease. Clean the rubber body and front and rear suspension mounts and bushings, then lubricate with pure silicone spray. Inspect the torque arm and track bar bolts for tightness. Check and fill the differential and manual transmission oil levels. Lubricate pre-1988 rear brake calipers park brake actuator screws with clean brake fluid.
Clean and lubricate all door, T-Top hood, and hatch rubber seals with silicone. Lubricate hinge pins and latches with clean engine oil (NOT spray lube - check the manual). Except for the front wheel bearings, you've now completed a chassis lube the way is needs to be done to satisfy the service manual. In your case, you should also check the hydraulic oil in the roof retract system, and lightly lubricate all pivot points with clean engine oil. Be careful to keep the oil off the canvas.
TUNE UP SERVICE
A basic tune-up MUST include:
* Cooling system inspection;
* Clean or replace spark plugs;
* Ignition wire testing;
* Distributor cap/rotor (if you don't have the OptiSpark);
* PCV valve cleaning or replacement;
* Air filter;
* Cleaning the IAC;
* Check Throttle Position Sensor voltage and adjust as necessary.
* Check/adjust minimum air rate;
* Check/adjust timing;
* Replace the EVAP canister filter (1987 and older cars);
* Code scan;
If you have a fuel injected engine and there are symptoms of poor injector performance, there are a few more steps that must be performed to ensure correct fuel system performance.
The proper steps in fuel injector system service are:
* Check fuel pump operating pressure and volume.
* Test pressure regulator for operation and leakage.
* Flush fuel rail and upper injector screens, including pressure regulator.
* Clean fuel injectors.(* if necessary)
* De-carbon engine assembly.
* Relearn onboard computer.
If there are problems with the fuel injectors, no amount of "tuning" will correct it short of an injector cleaning. This is very rarely solved with the fuel additives that advertise the ability to clean injectors. These are probably best used as maintenance products, to keep clean injectors clean. Once an injector is beginning to fail, it's usually too late for any such product to be successful. The relatively low cost of these additives makes it worth at least trying, but don't expect it to cure all of your problems. If the injectors react well to the fuel additives, consider yourself one of the fortunate few. Most of the time, the injectors need to be removed for complete cleaning.
Once you service all the parts and systems that need attention for a car of your mileage, most of your problems should be non-existent.
You have one of the rarer convertibles that really deserves to be maintained well. This should be a good start. When all this is done, start shopping for the customizing parts you were asking about.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
[This message has been edited by Vader (edited August 12, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,760
Likes: 0
From: Newark, DE
Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
wow Vader, that could be a tech article right there.(note to newcomer) Vader, along with hundreds of other members of this board can and will become very helpful to you with any troubles or ideas you may encounter with your new ride.
Oh yeah, Jegs and Summit both sell blackouts. you might even get lucky and find them on Ebay.
Eric
------------------
My 1986 Z28
GM350, T-5, 3.23's, lots of go fast goodies, 4th gen Firebird interior etc...
85 IROC w/ 1364 miles!
You'll always find what you've lost in the last place you look
R.I.P Dale Earnhardt
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 1
From: Caldwell, NJ
Car: 88 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Raptor 700
Jeez Vader, appreciate all that new info and will look into all of that stuff asap. and once again thanks everybody for the welcome and hope to hear frmo you guys again soon
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,463
Likes: 0
From: Annandale,NJ
WHOA!!! wasn't the IROC convertable very RARE!!?? If it is, you better not wreak it, It WILL be worth money soon if it is a TRUE IROC convert from the factory. Buy convertable you mean convertable not T-Tops right.......
wasn't the IROC convertable very RARE!!?? If it is, you better not wreak it, It WILL be worth money soon if it is a TRUE IROC convert from the factory. Buy convertable you mean convertable not T-Tops right....... Trending Topics
Supreme Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,242
Likes: 3
From: Somewhere around the South Side of Chicago just crusin' in one of the Niteriders
Car: 92RS 25th Anniv./88 IROC Z28 Vert
Engine: 305 TBI w/Tpi Air / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: Posi
I believe that IROC you got there is rare. Swing over to the History board and ask Willie he moderator if it is. If this is true start pampering right away. Congrats on joining the third generation/Camaro Club. We are here to help.
------------------
86 Camaro Black SS Coupe, T Tops, Flowmaster, Custom Paint, Dunlop Road Kings S/R tires, Wheel Country Directional Chrome Wheels,new charcoal & gray interior including seats and door panels, new carpet and headliner, complete front end suspension rebuild, new Valve seals, and more mods to come
http://www.angelfire.com/sports/niterider/86camaro.html
Morgan_Andre@hotmail.com
------------------
86 Camaro Black SS Coupe, T Tops, Flowmaster, Custom Paint, Dunlop Road Kings S/R tires, Wheel Country Directional Chrome Wheels,new charcoal & gray interior including seats and door panels, new carpet and headliner, complete front end suspension rebuild, new Valve seals, and more mods to come
http://www.angelfire.com/sports/niterider/86camaro.html
Morgan_Andre@hotmail.com
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 1
From: Caldwell, NJ
Car: 88 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Raptor 700
yea it's def a convertible, top folds into the cover and everything. Ok so how do I make certain that the car is an IROC and not an RS??
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