Maybe I'm a little behind the times but I just found out theres a tool set to replace the factory junk valve seals on your car. You pull the valve covers off, and remove the spark plugs. Then put compressed air into the cylinders one at a time. And use a special valve spring compressor. Then do the seals one at a time. just did it and it took 4 hours.. just thought I'd share

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89 RS 305 TBI/Hooker catback

 

Everyone learns about it eventually. I've used one for years. The only drawback is that you need an air compressor which not everyone has access to.

 

Colincamaro/Stephen 87,
I bought the spring compressor tool and have all the seals to do the job. After starting the job on the #1 cylinder (front/drivers), that one went fairly well; however, looking at all the air pump hardware (brass lines going into the exhaust manifold) it is going to be a nightmare to get compressed air to the remaining cylinders. Did you do anything in particular to get around all the junk to go so fast? Also, any hints as to how to tackle the passenger's side? And finally, did you actually make sure each cylidner was at TDC prior to pumping full of air and proceeding with the replacements? I had a hard time judging TDC doing the work by myself. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Jeff

 

Don't worry about where the piston is, it doesn't matter.

 

What PSI would you recommend for a safe "no matter where the piston is located" replacement job? We had it at 90PSI and it was enough to start moving the crank so we backed down to 60PSI.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

Don't worry about the crank moving either.

 

As long as your timing stays still, you're golden. Oh, and as long as that valve doesn't drop into your cylinder. I need to friggen do this, but I alas don't have a compressor. Rope trick time.

 

If you remove both rockers before you air the cylinder, it doesn't matter where the crank is. (ya gotta do both valves anyway)
Use as much air pressure as you can lay your hands on. Let the crank rotate when you air it up, without chopping off any fingers.

 

Or, you can do it the way us lazy people do...

Put the piston at TDC; stuff about 2' of 5/16" nylon rope in the cyl; do it to it; pull the rope back out.

That way, there's ABSOLUTELY NO POSSIBILITY of ever dropping a valve in.