Ok, about 2 weeks ago this tick coming from my engine stared happening. At first I went crazy, ordered a brand new engine, and then cancelled. Based on the fact I took it to a buddy of mine and he got his stethoscope out and probed around best he could from topside, and said it sounds very much like top end.

So I went home adjusted valves, set lash, problem went away for 2 minutes and slowly came right back after adjusting, every time, never failed.

The thing is, it is very audible at idle, and at high speeds its the same level of sound(dB) but the motor tunes it out, it gets more frequent as engine rpm go up. It’s almost as if it is inexistent while accelerating the motor, just when you let off the gas it gets very loud.

What could it be?

I went and bought a set of heads, 305 heads from an 84 Monte Carlo, they have had some work done to them and it’s very noticeable. Valve job is very recent and guides are tight, new springs, and the such. Forgot casting numbers but they seem alright for my TPI.

I am thinking about replacing cam, lifters, heads, pretty much the whole valve train. Timing chain is new. And I have already made sure it wasn't anything else.

Here are my findings with my newly acquired stethoscope.

On passenger side valve cover, noise is very audible, on drivers, audible, but not nearly as much. On intake manifold, passenger is much louder then drivers. On the block, noise is there, but very low toned. When on head bolts, noise is almost as loud as valve covers. Noise is louder in front of motor then rear. Noise is louder at higher temperatures (220* F).

Oil pressure never did change one bit, maybe one psi, but that might be my imagination.

I was told if it were bearings of any sort oil pressure would drop significantly. Mine never did.



What would you guys recommend/do in this situation?

I am planning on ordering summit TPI cam and lifter set, with springs and retainers, and pushrods. Intake set and BBK AFPR. But am wondering if it can be fixed easier or diagnosed exactly.



Thanks,

 

First thing... relax

An engine is a simple creature

I got money on an exhaust leak... take your header gaskets off and check them out, then if they are fine, bolt them back on and torque the header bolts back to spec... that's a better start than replacing the motor hehe

After that, take off the valve covers, and inspect to make sure that none of your rocker studs have popped out any or something. Then start the motor and set the valve lash once again with the motor on.

Then see where that gets yah

 

Already there, no exhaust leak, there are no gaskets on my headers and never have been, no sealant, just metal to metal.

The noise is defiantly internal (at least somewhat).

I have already set lash with valve covers off and motor running (engine running method). The noise just continually cam back. If I pried on certain things I could get it to go away.

At this point I’m leaning to a loosened stud, or a couple collapsed lifters, or a messed up cam lobe.

How could I diagnose this?

 

What year car do you have? I assume TPI? Is it the injectors? They audibly click. Make sure your new heads will bolt up to your TPI manifold, If it's 87 or later it won't.

 

Since it went away momentarily while setting lash I would guess a lifter is the source.

I had a sticking lifter that would only make noise when the engine was cold. I used an engine cleaner called Risol or something like that. Pour it in the crank and idle the engine for 10 minutes. Then change the oil. Cured my problem. If it's a dirty lifter it may help you. If it's collapsed then it would do noting.

 

its an 86,

sticky lifter is one thing, collapsed is another. Mine doesn't go away ever really, it just gets different with the temperatures, meaning something hydrolic is the source. As well as the fact it gets audibly louder when the rpms are dropping, the motor is no longer able to take the slack out of the valve train.


Cant just change one lifter and be on with it, need to change everything anyways. Better flowing heads wont hurt me a bit also, plus a better cam, i might get 50 horse from all this(AFPR, heads, and cam), well maybe if i do the prom tuning just right.

Soon i start port work on these monte carlo heads, from what i've been reading they flowed better then my stockers, and with port work(moderate) flow much better then stock vortecs.

Thats just something to think about....



shane

 

If your set on doing mods now and going in that deep anyway then I would guess you will find it's going to be a lifter. Post the outcome.

 

I would agree that it is possible that the lifter is the source. i have had 2 engines with a lifter that has ticked and it is a very noticable thing if the lifter is bad enough off. Sticking lifters happen too. If the lifters are stock then you may have a collapsed one. ussually nothing you do will stop that tick except replaceing the lifter itself. at which time you might as well change the cam too. Would go along nicely with that new timing chain you have. since generally when you change the chain you replace the cam and lifters too generally anyhow. always exceptions to everything of course

 

Are these stock exhaust manifolds, or aftermarket headers?

If headers then you may want to try some 3 dollar pair of header gaskets just to completely take that off the list...