Rear rotors rusted to axle
get a bigger hammer, does the rotor have provisions for jack bolts? a little heat?
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
Some people on the board have had sucess with the old fasion method. Soak them with lots (I mean alot)
of penetrating fluid and let'em soak over night. Then knock them off with a rubber mallet.
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88' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4
of penetrating fluid and let'em soak over night. Then knock them off with a rubber mallet. ------------------
88' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4
I'll side with the Mystic on this one. A little patience and a buttload of penetrating oil can do a world of good. Just in case, keep the torch and BFH handy...
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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Guest
Posts: n/a
The axle has at least one if not two extra holes in it (cant remember how many, maybe its 3) anyways, if you grind down the open end of a 9/16" craftsman wrench a bit (barring you dont already have a thin 9/16" wrench), you can get it behind the rotor and take off the 4 nuts holding the axle in place, and take the axle (with rotor) out of the car. Then you can hammer it off the axle no problem, and you dont have to worry about the penetrating oil working or not... which I tried first and it didnt work.
ede, theres no holes for jack bolts. GM wasnt thinking, as usual.
Oh yea, and if its a 10-bolt... I'm sorry lol.. my idea wont work quite that easy.
[This message has been edited by madmax (edited August 18, 2001).]
ede, theres no holes for jack bolts. GM wasnt thinking, as usual.
Oh yea, and if its a 10-bolt... I'm sorry lol.. my idea wont work quite that easy.
[This message has been edited by madmax (edited August 18, 2001).]
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