Yesterday I replaced some hoses on my A/C and did the R-134a retrofit. It blows cold/cool air now but at idle the compressor makes a bad vibrating or shaking noise. Is it on the way out?

Also, I have replaced my fan switch with an aftermarket(haynes I believe) and I need to hook up the fan so it comes on when the a/c is on. Where is the a/c fan clutch switch thing? Thanks for the help.

 

Not that I know the answer to your question, but I can chime in with the fact that I've just done the same retrofit/recharge to my air system, and it blows cold but vibrates like heck (sounds nasty and a heavy thrumming in the brake pedal). Atleast your not the only one =)

 

Have you checked the tension on your serp belt?

My AC was making similar noises until I bought a new belt.
Worth a try and only costs around $17-$25. Even if it don't fix it you'll at least have one when it does finally go out.

As for the fan switch.....

I don't think the fan switch has anything to do with the fan coming on when the ac is on.
I think they are on two seperate systems.

THere are two ways for the fan to come on.
1) turn on the ac
2) temps get up to x degrees and fanswitch turns on the fan.

You might have a bad fan motor.
If it's not coming on with the ac on.
The fan should come on with the ac on no matter how cold/hot the engine is.

To see if your fan motor is shot do the following test.

Unplug the wire going into the fan motor. And place it where you can test it with the motor running.

Start the car and ac.
You might only have to turn the key to the run position without having to start the car, but I have not tried it that way before.

Get a test light or volt meter and see if you are getting juice to the wires.

If you get a reading then your fan motor is shot. Cost under $30 new at autozone.

If you don't get a reading then you might have a fuseable link that fried. Look between the radiator and the battery for your fuseable links.

You'll need to give a tad more details after you've tried the above.

Hope it helps.

 

Did you add too much? It will hold 80 percent of the r12 capacity.


------------------
350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

Sorry, I guess I wasn't too clear about the fan situtation in my first post. My fan is working fine. The way it's set up now has nothing to do with the stock setup. There is a temp. Controlled switch in the radiatio which turns the fan on through a relay at 185*. There is another wire on the relay you can either hook up to the a/c clutch switch or hook up to a manual switch so the fans come on whenever you want. I need to know where the clutch switch is I hook into. If anybody could give me advice on that it would be great.