During the course of tightening the bolts on my billet timing cover (tiny allen headed bolts unreachable without pulling the balancer) i was reinstalling the balancer when i pulled out the first three rows of threads. Now when the balancer is on the end of the crank the bolt doesn't go deep enough to grab at the threads . I have been considering pulling off the balancer and tapping the crank for the a big-block balancer bolt, or helicoiling the crank for the bolt i have now. I have helicoiled bolts in the trans pan and other areas that arent in high movement areas but would anyone trust a heli-coil to be used in a crank. And if so, would i ever be able to turn this engine over in the future by the balancer bolt? If anyone would provide me with some insight it would be greatly appreciated. - Bob

 

Heli-Coil it. Those are stronger by far than the original threads. There is no "trust" issue.

I would not hack the crank into a "one-off" piece with a "special" bolt hole. Might seem easier now; but is sure to cause some kind of grief farther down the road.No, of course not, not any more than you ever could. You can't do that now safely. Nothing you can do, will ever make that possible. Get the right tool and you won't have to worry about tearing up your motor by wrenching on it incorrectly.

 

Ok thanks RB, i dont know very much about heli-coils, all i know about them is how to install. I wasn't aware that trust wast an issue. Thanks again, Bob

 

if it's only s few threads run a tap, 7/16-14, in the crank and buy a new bolt. if they're too far gone a thread insert will fix it better than new.

 

Serves you right for not using a proper tool to install the balancer. You never use the threads in the crank to pull the balancer on. I've seen so many people strip the threads out that way.

Heli-coil it to fix it then make a tool. I think the end of a SBC crank is 7/16". Get about 6" of 7/16" threaded rod, a nut and a couple of washers. Screw the threaded rod into the crank and use the 2 washers and nut to push the balancer onto the crank. That way the threaded rod is held solid in the crank threads and the nut on the threaded rod is doing all the work. Using 2 washers just reduces the amount of friction. Usually put some oil on the washers.

 

The Tool (one of them) Not rocket science.... or even expensive

 

i used my installer tool last weekend on an engine i put together. had a 16.99 sticker on it. got it at carlisle car show in 2000.