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studs and girldles- worth the little extra $$$?

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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 10:50 AM
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From: st. louis missouri
Car: 88 S-Dime
Engine: 388
Transmission: 700r4
studs and girldles- worth the little extra $$$?

just curious if main studs and head studs were a good idea? also- is a main girdle worth the money on a 2 bolt block? last but not least- i assume sime clearancing would need to be done on the main girdle to get it to clear a stroker crank?
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 06:27 PM
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From: Caldwell,ID
Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
I wouldn't think they woudl be that expensive to put in and yes they should put quite a bit of extra meat in there to help keep things working like they should.

and from what I remember someone here saying a 4 bolt main isn't always the greatest option being that it removes some of the metal. works great for a truck or something like that that does a lot of towing and such. but might want to search that part as this was some time ago

but if nothing else the girdle itself shoudl be extra insurance without much for cons other then just a little lighter wallet...

and remember less weight means you go faster
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 09:00 PM
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From: st. louis missouri
Car: 88 S-Dime
Engine: 388
Transmission: 700r4
i heard the same thing- something about the 4 bolt having a little less mass in the web made it slightly less strong. i guess there could be arguements agains that also- depends on what you are doing i guess. i still think a main girdle wouldnt be too bad of an idea- just a little more than a $100
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 09:27 PM
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From: Loveland, OH, US
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The only 2-bolt block that's "stronger" than an otherwise equivalent 4-bolt block, is the early (72-back) 400s compared to the later ones. And the extra 2 bolts aren't what made it weaker. They just added more metal later on.

The comment about truck blocks is largely true. The extra 2 bolts, and the way they're installed, does relatively little to deal with the stresses of racing. That's not what they're meant for. Splayed outer bolts are FAR more effective, for what most of us here would be wanting to get done.

You will get 0.000001 extra HP from a stud girdle, tops. Not enough to offset the weight penalty.

What it will give you, however, is better odds of survival at any given level of HP, once you get past the block's limitations.
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 09:34 PM
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From: st. louis missouri
Car: 88 S-Dime
Engine: 388
Transmission: 700r4
that's what i figured- i wasnt going after the girdle for the added hp- that didnt even cross my mind- i was just thinking of it in terms of making the 2 bolt a tad stronger
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 10:18 AM
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From: Detroit, MI, USA
Car: '82 Trans Am
Engine: Blown 540 BBC
Transmission: TH475
Axle/Gears: Dana 60, 4.10 w/spool
Studs are always a worthwhile upgrade. They thread in deeper and provide a higher clamping force. Unless the main cap girdle attaches to the block some way (usually to the oil pan rail), it'll do little to nothing as far as strength, and is just a waste of money.
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 10:25 AM
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From: st. louis missouri
Car: 88 S-Dime
Engine: 388
Transmission: 700r4
it looks as though the main cap girdle is assembled in this order:
studs go into the block then the caps slide over the studs then the girdle goes over the caps and nuts hold the entire assembly down.
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 03:10 PM
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As for the head studs, I'd say yes if you are planning to force feed the cylinders. Keep in mind though, somtimes heads will not come off of the engine, with studs, while the engine is still in the chassis, should you ever blow a head gasket or somthing.
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 04:05 PM
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From: st. louis missouri
Car: 88 S-Dime
Engine: 388
Transmission: 700r4
the engine i am building is actually going into an s-10. the engine bay has plenty of room- looks to me like i would still be able to get the heads off while the engine is still in the truck- so looks like the head studs are a go
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 06:52 PM
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From: greenville, OH
Car: 86 Firebird, 2002 Monte Carlo, 91 v
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
I don't think you'll be able to get the heads off in an s-10 with studs. I was thinking about using them, but was told it can be a bear with the master cylinder and ac box
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 07:32 PM
  #11  
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From: st. louis missouri
Car: 88 S-Dime
Engine: 388
Transmission: 700r4
the truck doesnt have ac- and i took the power brakes off as well as the power steering. i might have to go back out to the garage and have a look at it- measure a little more
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 07:38 PM
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From: greenville, OH
Car: 86 Firebird, 2002 Monte Carlo, 91 v
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
it might work then. my jimmy was tight under there
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 08:13 PM
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IHI
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Good luck pulling sbc heads in the bay of the S-10, I drive/wrench on one and it's kinda tight. ARP does make head studs with an allen head recessed into the end of the stud should in car servicing need to be done, you can use a allen wrench to pull every stud to get head off in car.

But on another note, be aware using head studs tends to lend itself to head seeping, heard it from more racers having this problem than not and what made me go with regular head bolts instead of studs when I assembled my motor-less maintenance equates to less headaches and more focus to bring home the money at the end of the day.
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 08:16 PM
  #14  
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From: greenville, OH
Car: 86 Firebird, 2002 Monte Carlo, 91 v
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
headaches suck wee wee. I've had my fill of headaches, don't need anymore
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 08:20 PM
  #15  
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From: st. louis missouri
Car: 88 S-Dime
Engine: 388
Transmission: 700r4
never heard on them causing more leaks- thanks for the tip though- like you- i don't need any more problems
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