My hatch has a machanical pull down, and it has worked fine since I had my car, I let one of my frat brothers borrow my car to go to class for 10 minutes, he didnt do anything to it I trust him, but when I got it back the hatch wont pull down anymore, it is secured cause it does latch its just annoying cause there is a 1 inch gap cause it wont pull down, if you know what I can do to atleast make it pull down I dont care if the motor doesnt work I just dont want it sticking up like it is, thanks guys

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1988 Formula 350
Maroon, 5 speed
Edelbrock 750 cfm carb
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold
Hooker super comp. headers
Hookerheaders 3 inch cat-back
3 inch pipe from headers all the way to the muffler
Gutted cat
K&N filter
WS6 Package
ATGI underbody purple neons
Black light interior

 

There should be a button or switch down inside that will raise the motor up. This happened to me when the hatch slammed shut, I guess it pushed the motor down. You will hear and see it raise up. Hopefully that's the problem, it would be the simplist to fix.

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'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
FLOWMASTER, NO CAT
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat
3:73 Posi
Rebuilt 700R4 vette servo and .500 boost valve
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite
Soon to be installed
3" Hooker Aero Chamber

 

You need to try and get the motor to re-cycle by hitting that switch. I didn't know about it and bought new motor when I didn't need it. Ironically one of the knucklheads in my house broke mine too. You need to take of the plastic cover in the rear of your trunk to get good access to the motor. On the center of the mechanism that slides up and down (between the two tracks) there is a small metal tab. The tab goes down when the trunk is shut and hits another small, black plastic tab that sticks out of a black plastic box on top of the motor part. Use a long screwdriver to push this switch and the motor will most likely come all the way back up and grab the hatch when you shut it again.

 

It grabs the hatch, it just doesnt pull it down. the hatch is secured and locked but I think something happend with the motor and the hatch is just in the up position locked with an inch gap cause the motor is not pulling it down, it sucks cause it looks like my hatch is open and it makes a ratteling noise cause its not all the way down... I really dont want to buy a new motor... maybe I can rig it to just stay down

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1988 Formula 350
Maroon, 5 speed
Edelbrock 750 cfm carb
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold
Hooker super comp. headers
Hookerheaders 3 inch cat-back
3 inch pipe from headers all the way to the muffler
Gutted cat
K&N filter
WS6 Package
ATGI underbody purple neons
Black light interior

 

I have had the same problem for a while now, if you have hit the reset button, facing the rear of the vehicle it is on the left of the latch closer to you than the actual metal latch, push and hold this till the motor goes down then let go it should come up, if not then take the plastic casing from the back off and then locate the plug in above the motor cause this could have a bad connection spray it with some wd40 plug it in and then check again. If this fails look at the gear mechanism attached to the motor and look closely, is it cracked( I had this problem and had to replace), if not maybe you need a new motor. I had problems with mine after I first bought my car and a mechanic showed me that reset switch and I have been good to go, except for the cracked gear case(mine is cracked again right now!) which will cause the motor to not have enough pressure to stop cranking down so I have to pull the fuse so it will stop. Good luck!