I just bought a new idler arm. It came with a new grease fitting, a cotter pin, a rubber boot, and a nut, in a separate plastic bag. I am trying to thread the grease fitting into the hole in the bottom of the new joint, and it appears that there is no screw thread in the hole. Am I supposed to just make my own thread in the hole by turning the fitting into the hole with a wrench ??? Won't that get metal shavings into the joint ?
Iy may be painfully obvious what to do here,
but I don't want to just assume something and screw up my brand new idler arm.
Also, the boot it came with is not big enough to slide down over the support piece and onto the top of the joint unless I stretch it a bit. Once it gets down onto the joint, it might fit just fine, but the smaller top hole of the boot has to stretch to get over the "bracket" part of the idler arm, before I can get it onto the idler arm joint. The idler arm cam without any boot in place, just this separate boot in a bag.

Also, what's the cotter pin for? Must be a generic thing, since I don't see any cotter pins in my current idler arm assenbly.

And one more question. The manual says I need to use tool J766455 (or whatever) or it's equivalent, to remove the relay rod from the idler arem. Does that mean the arm has been pressed onto the ball stud on the relay rod? Will i really need this tool ? Is that what they call a pickle fork ?

I am sure this is probably easier than changing the oil, but I've never replaced an idler arm, and all these little things like self-threading fittings, and pickle forks, and setting the relay rod height, are coming out of the woodwork, after I had heard that changing the idler arm was such a piece of cake, and all I would need would be a 9/16 inch wrench, "just take the old one off and put on the new one". What's the story here? Rocket science or cake ?

Thanks







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88 GTA 5.7 TPI Charcoal Grey Bone Stock except for loose muffler which makes it a bit louder than normal.

 

Ok let's see where to start here. The grease fitting is self tapping so just screw it in there with a wrench, but only until it's flush...don't strip it. As far as the boot, I don't know what to tell you....just try to get it on however it looks best. You shouldn't need to remove anything from the old idler arm. The only thing you may need a pickle fork for it seperating the arm from the center link, but since you're replacing it anyway, you can probably just hit it out with a hammer. There is a special method for aligning the arm after installation, but I don't really know how to do it.....maybe someone else can pitch in here and help you with that.

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

Getting there.....383 with Super Ram, Bosch 24# SVO's, MSD, Edelbrock 58 mm TB, 700R4 tranny, Eibach springs, Koni 12 way adjustable shocks and struts, and more!! Now let's pray it runs when it's all back together!!!!

 

the idler arm will line itself up. it just connects to the center link. at least mine lined up nicely. I don't think changing an idler arm would be cause for an alignment

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'86 IROC 5-speed
305 LG4
edelbrock performer rpm intake
edelbrock 600 cfm carb
msd pro billet hei distributer
'95 3.23 rearend
hotchkis rear suspension
PST front polygraphite suspension
"speed kills. buy a f@&d, live forever."

 

The fitting screws in.

The boot..if it doesnt fit, use the old one.

The cotter pin is used with the new castle nut, the stock one most likely has a "pinch" nut.

And yes you will need a pickle fork to remove the old idler, but the new one will just line up.

No need for alignment.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R
and 2 POS commuters...

R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"

 

Thanks, everybody, for the answers. So it looks like the pickle fork is the preferred method of getting the idler arm off the center link. Alignment not needed. My manual has the term 'relay rod' instead of center link, I think.
Can I get a "pickle fork" at any auto parts store ? Am I supposed to use a lot of force with it, or should the center link pop out pretty easily ?

And, one more question. Can I drive the car up on ramps to do this? I don't need to be on jack stands, right?

Thanks again

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88 GTA 5.7 TPI Charcoal Grey Bone Stock except for loose muffler which makes it a bit louder than normal.

 

Chances are good your going to have to pound the hell out of it...

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Yep, beat the hell out of it.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R
and 2 POS commuters...

R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"