i know this is a stupid question, but here's some background--according to the VIN number, the engine in my car is a 305. but it has the intake manifold of a 350. is that possible? or did someone do an engine swap to my car? everything looks stock and stuff, is there any way i can tell which engine i have(non of my mechanic friends will look at it).

oh yeah, one more thing, my car has a bad acceleration problem(well, it hardly has any acceleration at all). my brother let one of his "Camaro expert" friends look at it and drive it, and he's "sure" it's some kind of springs in the distributor. does anyone know what the hell he's talking about? would it be a simple job to do on your own? thanks hope i get some help and i hope i don't sound too much like a moron right now

 

The TPI system is the same on 305\350's.

The injectors and the knock sensor are diffrent.

 

You need to check the casting numbers on your block or heads. Then look up the numbers in a reference like www.mortec.com. Then you'll know if you have a 305 or 350.

I would not let your brother's "Camaro expert" friend anywhere your car. Springs and electronic distributors do not belong in the same sentence.

Can you describe a bad acceleration problem more clearly?

 

oh don't worry i don't let him anywhere near it, that stuff with him came when i let my brother drive the car for a couple of days so he can get it through his head that that car has less acceleration than his 4-cylinder barretta. he's kinda jealous(he's always wanted a Camaro), so having him help me is a "once in a blue moon" thing.


ok, the problem? i notice the idle drops a little and stays(maybe a couple of days after the idle is set). acceleration wise, you can be at a stand still and put the pedal to the floor and it doesn't even feel like it's moving. it feels like it hesitates a little bit. it's had a full tune up, the GM place even says it's running right(i don't believe them, i think they're the reason why i had to get a new radiator and will have to take apart the front end and put it on a frame machine). sorry if i made this kinda lengthy. i thought about giving up on this car many times(poured about 3 grand into getting ti fixed), but i love this car too much and am willing to work with it to get it the way it should.

thanks for the help i really appreciate it!

 

ok, still don't know what the problem is.

the idle seems to get lower and lower everytime i drive it(sad to say, i don't drive much, mostly because of flashbacks to my older Z28 cutting out everytime i took it out of the yard).

ok, when i start it up, the idle moves between 15 and 10 hundred RPMs. once it gets to operating temperature, the idle drops a little lower than the 10 hundred RPM mark.

acceleration--still accelerates about as fast as a moped in reverse. i have to put the pedal about 3/4 of the way to the floor to get up to speed at a decent rate. i've been told it could be the transmission, some springs on the distributor that don't exist, and the exhaust being "clogged up".

i'm at a loss as to what to do. any help is appreciated.

i'm thinking clogged injectors? i heard that that's not to uncommon for these types of cars(the engine has about 126,000 miles on it). but would that mess with the idle too?

i don't really want to take apart the whole engine or anything unless i'm sure that the work will be worth it(i don't really have the tools or the patience--great combo huh?). hope to get some leads so i can mess with it a little this weekend. thanks i hope i get a reply.

 

Clogged cat maybe

 

First start with the easy things to check. I would check the TPS, IAC, and fuel pressure.

Also have any SES codes been thrown?

 

had a CAT back pressure test done to it. no build up in pressure or anything. though the guy said that my stock mufflers and stuff were Flomasters(this is coming from the top muffler place in this town--shows you the quality of the mechanics here and the reason why i'd prefer to do this myself).


stupid question, but how hard would it be to check the fuel pressure? and how would i go about doing it?

only SES codes to pop up is one for the EGR valve(replaced that and the solenoid though). it still comes on after maybe 6-8 minutes of driving, but i'm told it could be an O2 sensor(been meaning to replace that just haven't had the means to at the moment).

what's an IAC? i'll look it up in my manual tonight i guess.

thanks for the help, keep it coming lol.

 

IAC= Idle air control valve.
I know you've said that a garage said it was running good, but has anyone checked the timing?

If it was a plugged up converter you would hear the exhaust whistiling out before the cat.

Check for vacuum leaks?
Plugged injectors??

 

You would have to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve located on the right side fuel rail.

 

oh ok, thanks. i'll buy a fuel pressure gauge and do that this weekend, hopefully tomorrow i'll get a chance to do that. again thanks.

 

Is the car sometimes hard to start in the morning?

When was the last time that you replaced the fuel filter?

When was the last time that you replaced or checked the ignition module.

I forget, is your setup speed density, or MAF? If MAP, have you made sure the MAP unit works properly?

If MAF, have you tried unplugging the MAF sensor and seeing if it runs any better?

(I'm assuming your car is TPI)

BTW, I like Offspring too... the tattoo on my shoulder proves it

 

haha that's awesome, yes the Offspring rules, hopefully i'll be seeing them next month in North Carolina(my first real concert!).

ok, i think it has a MAF sensor(any way to tell between MAF and MAP?). yup it's a TPI.

it's never hard to start, though it does start up kinda rough when it's raining and shakes a little too much until it gets to operating temp(only when it rains though).

replaced the filter not too long ago, havne't checked the ignition module, though my "mechanic" friend assures me that's not the problem(even though he can't point me in the right direction). how would i check that?

thanks for the help

 

ok, despite being sick and having a rough weekend, i managed to run to Sears and pick up a fuel pressure test guage and stuff.

according to Haynes, the pressure should be between 34-47 psi. since the instructions to the test guage said to look at the pressure with the key turned on, then while the engine is running, i checked both times--with the key on the pressure was about 42. engine running about 36. seems kinda low to me, but it's within the range Haynes says it should be in.

i unplugged the MAF(or MAP?) sensor. i just realized, was i supposed to do this while the engine is running, or before start up?(i did it before start up, suprise suprise it didn't start).

any more suggestions?

 

An idle alittle under 10 hundred RPM is normal. I think it is supposed to be about 700 RPM. Mine idles at 500 RPM and sometimes when I put it in gear, surges to 0 RPM and brings it self back to normal bolting me forward without touching the gas...its great haha. What a pos.

This car was beaten a lot its 150K miles and its a miracle it still runs good.

 

the GM place cranked it up to about 14-15 and it sounded a hell of a lot better than it being low(and no matter what i cahnge it to it still drops really low when the engine gets to operating temp. damn thing is too low, it shouldn't feel like it's gonna cut out everytime i come up to a red light or stop sign.

then again, if the engine was running right in the first place i wouldn't worry about that.

 

did u check ur plugs and wires? i had that happen to an old car of mine. it ideled really low and was about to cut out. i find out that a few of the spark plug wires were totally shot. put new plugs and wires on it and it ran fine.

 

yup, so far it's been through 2 sets of plugs and 3 sets of wires since i got it. checked them, double checked them, then triple checked them. plugs are gapped correctly, wires are good running to where they're supposed to, made sure that none were loose. if anything that's one thing on that engine i'm 500% sure of isn't the problem.

 

ok if i don't get many replies from this i'll just start up another thread since my "305 or 350?" question has been answered.

 

is it a good chance my motor is a 305??

i had a 350 in it, and i brought it to a local performance shop to rebuild it and do some work. i looked at it a few times while he was building.

it is .30 over i beleive, cuz i seen the flat top pistons say .30 over on them. but i went to put in a 700r4, and the only flywheel i could find work was made for a 1985 camaro 305, does make mean it isnt a 350, cuz then i got screwed over

i just bought heads for it, for a 350 aluminum 2.02 1.60 and 1.6 roller rockers, will these still fit? they are 62cc

 

check the casting # on the back of the block where it mates to the bellhousing. And the engine it was made for shouldn't matter all to much. Just dont beat the hell out of it.

 

if my engine idled at 1k id b a lil concerned, warmed up and in drive at a red light stopped it will idle at 550 rpm. in park it idles at around 650... so your idle is fine