i've had my camaro for 3 years and have barely driven it b/c it's mostly been parked. Right after i bought it, it stalled after about 25 minutes of running, but only when i was idling. it usually takes about 15 mins of being off b4 she would turn back on (yes she cranks) right now i'm in NY and she's in FL which i plan to bring her up here soon so i'm starting to look into a solution
i had a short term solution that took 7 months of scratching my head, tracing wires and reading the haynes manual front to back. i found the fuel pump was fine, replaced oil pressure switch, wiring terminals/harnesses, mass airflow sensor, oxygen sensor and the fuel pump relay till i finally realized that when driving, the oil pressure would be just over1/2 way on the guage (i don't remember the #s) but when i would idle after about 20 mins, it would start bouncing down to to about 1/4 of the way down but not hitting the red markers. so out of experiment, i did some wiring and put a toggle switch in, bypassing the oilpressure switch to the fuel pump (which i tried 2 new oilpressure switches prior to the bypass) and she ran great with the toggle switch. before i did that she coded 32, 34 and 54 and afterwards she only coded 54 which the problem is still a mystery b/c i've checked all i could think.
after a few months the starter died, and i replaced that, and 2 days later the fuel pump died, i'm guessing from the direct juice from the battery when i switched it on or just it's time. i plan on moving her up here soon and would like to fix the problem (other than replacing the pump) instead of running her off a toggleswitch again.
i've been told it could be the rod in the distributor that goes down to the oilpump, slipping when the oil gets hot..is that true? and if not, what could it be?
please, someone help
thank you for taking the time to read this

 

as far as the oil pump rod slipping, I guess it can happen, however they are driven by a flat piece of metal. Kind of like a flat head screwdriver. I would look at the control modual. They can do the same thing you described.


Good luck.

 

If the oil pressure switch is turning the car off when the oil pressure drops, check the fuel pump relay. Do it after you find out why you have no oil pressure though.

Code 32 is an EGR system error.
Code 34 is a MAF sensor low-flow error.
Code 54 is a low fuel-pump voltage error.

 

i replaced the fuel pump relay and the wiring harness. oil levels are good with 10w30 oil and the guage never hit the red line when at idle...would just bounce from 1/2 to 1/4 and as soon as i'd give it gas, it would go back up just over 1/2. if i stayed on the gas and kept it up, it wouldn't shut off, which i was having to do at intersections in neutral just so i wouldn't stall and have to push her to the curb and wait 15 mins
this really has me dumbfounded.
i forgot to mention that right after i bought the car and this happend the 1st time, i replaced the computer with a new, not used one and durring the 7 months of replacing everything that was not contributing to the problem, i checked the continuity of all wires related to the fuel pump and oil pump (pretty much got the autozone printout for the codes and went through the proceedures to find the source of the codes). the continuity in the wires wasn't off.
hence the name "the mystery machine" that my car has taken...i don't think it'll ever be solved
i was looking at diagrams of the oil pump and realized that there's an oil pressure regulator and was curious as to if that could be making the oil pressure drop once hot and idling. i just wish my car wasn't 1200 miles away from me right now.
oh yeah, and the idle air control motor was checked too...and that was just fine. at one point i thought that was the problem.
thanks for the replies. If you know anyone that has the slightest idea what it could be, just toss the ideas my way b/c when i go back to FL i wanna fix her and drive her back to ny running as she should (in a month or 2)

 

The "oil pressure regulator" in the oil pump is just a bypass spring to limit the maximum oil pressure, it won't do anything for the minimum pressure.

Have you tried verifying the factory gauge readings with a mechanical gauge?

 

yes, i bought a gauge and it did the same thing....that's why i bypassed the oilpressure switch so my car would stop shutting off from the power cutoff after 20mins of runnin...ran fine using a toggle switch while delivering pizza fultime for 2-3 months until the starter died and then the fuel pump

 

What exactly where your oil pressure readings at each RPM?

My car did the stalling thing when it spun bearings.

The knock sensor senses knock, and retards the timing until the knocking stops, this makes for a rough idle. It will retard the timing enough to shut the car down very easily if you dont gas it.


You should get a datalogger and check your knock counts.... I feel a rebuild coming on soon.