EjBaL

Ok, I have read literally every topic on replacing valve seals, and I still have a couple of unanswered questions. I want to know once and for all, is it better to use the intake seals on the exhaust valves as well? Should I just buy two intake sets and use them on both the exhaust and intake, or should I just buy the set specified for exhaust and use it? Is there ANY disadvantage at all to using the intake seals on the exhaust? I just want to be sure before I do it, and also, which method is really better, the rope trick or the compressed air? I will probably be doing this withing a couple weeks. The fel-pro parts numbers I have for the intake are ss72527, and exhaust numbers are ss72877. Please get back to me and let me know, and give me any advice you may have. Thanks alot.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I just had my heads gone through by a performance specialist. He said he likes to use the positive sealing type on the intakes just to keep oil from getting sucked in. However, he uses exhaust types to let a little oil down there, because it isn't "sucked" in like the intakes are, and they need just a little oil.

So, I'd say go with the specific types on intake & exhaust (are you sure about that p/n?).

RB83L69

No, not really. The only thing is that the material won't stand up to heat real well, so they tend not to last real long. The Fel Pro exhaust ones are not "positive" like the intakes, they are merely umbrellas. Personally, I don't use either, if I can help it; I prefer to use Teflon ones on both intake and exhaust, in conjunction with bronze or bronze-wall guides.Yes. They are both better. Use whichever is more appropriate to your situation.

tom3

Only thing I saw with the exhaust specific FelPro seals is that they are pretty thick. Limits your valve lift to about .460 in so with a modified engine this needs to be looked at. Fine on a stocker, I put them on mine and seem to work just fine all around. Hard to be FelPro stuff, except for the cost.

EjBaL

yes Im sure about the part numbers. So are you saying that if I put the intake set on the exhaust thats its not going to last as long due to the heat? How long are we talking, because chances are the 305 is only going to be in there a couple more years, I just cant deal with the smoke anymore. The exhaust part number I posted is for the "optional high temp" ones, which I figured I might as well go with. So now Im still torn here on which ones to use...

EjBaL

ttt, come on guys, those of you who have done them, what did YOU do?

ChevyRacer

On my heads i used both types. Umbrella, and the regular o ring.

I had a whole bunch extra from some other project. and i used all intakes everywhere. I figured it would be better, wasn't muich more expensive. I kind feel that it isn't the best. Exhaust seals normally are made for higher temperatures since blowby comes through the guide sometimes(sometimes!!!).

EjBaL

have you had any trouble with them at all?

wwnf

iTrader: (1)

Try this thread out

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=298854

ChevyRacer

lol, engine hasn't started yet... Sure it'll be good however

IrocZonNos

Is it actually possible to replace the valve seals (with the engine in car) without applying air or sticking rope through the spark plug holes? I heard you can just rotate the crank until each cylinder its at TDC. Let me know your thoughts.

rsn932

No need to post the exact same thing in three different threads.