ok well i was driving around and all of a suden my temp went way up past 220 and had real low oil preassure it was at about 10 psi when i was driving it and went to 0 when i was at a light i got home and i could hear the water boiling and looked under the hood and it looked like it was leaking by the thermostat housing. so i took the thermostat out drove around for a little didnt overheat but oil was still doing the same took it back home checked oil it was fine started it back up and heard a knocking from driverside but when i reved it up it would go away. i took a drive it sounded like it was only knocking when i let off the gas but when i floored it it had no power at all so i was taking it back home and it just shut off didnt hear any knocking at the time. and when i tryed to start it back up it wouldent even turn over. DAMN THIS SUCKS beacuse i just got my license back 3 days ago. if something serious happend what would be the easiest cheapest way to get it back running

 

for future refrence, when your engine is making bad sounds, its not the time to floor the gas
thats all ive got though, sorry

 

try trouble shooting and figure out a few more details of your problem and go from there

 

ok i got up this morning and it started right up and i heard the knock its a dull knock sound i can only hear it sometimes like at idle and when i give it a little gas and let off it will knock the oil pressure was at 30psi at idle. i know it has to be a rod what do you think i could do to help it out a little this is my only car and i'll problly need it for about to more months to get the money for a new or used block. and to get all the parts i need i just need it to drive me to work and back. thanks

 

since you know it's a rod only reasonable thing to do would be to replace the rod in question, or replace the engine.

 

ok i have started driving it agian being real careful i dont know if it is a rod knock or not. it makes the knock sound when its about to shift when it gets to the higher rpms its not that loud eaither. the oil pressure is around 30 psi when im driving and goes down to about 10 psi at idle also took 1 plug wire off at a time and started the car to see if the knock was still there and it was. i checked the flywheel no cracks. it has a real hard time reving past 3k it almost has no power at all i was thinking mabye the knock sensor. i also have shorty headers on the car and i was looking at them the other day and one of the header bolts had fallin out the pass side back one. and i found out why my temp went so hi the bottom hose was leaking.

 

Since you've overheated the engine, you should probably change oil ASAP since it was likely cooked in the process. Any long-chain polymers that were added to the oil to maintain viscosity at higher temperatures were probably baked into charcoal during the episode.

Drain it, replace the filter, and refill it with the correct oil. At temperatures above 40°F, that means SAE 30, not 5W-30. Check your owner's manual for details. It's all in there. That alone may help alleviate some of the knocking.

It is also not advisable to rev the engine to 3,000 RPM when you know it is potentially already damaged, regardless of the temperature.

On the up-side, I guess you can't lose your license while walking.

 

This is my interpretation of the story... The motor overheated, steve continued to drive it, got so friggin hot it cooked all the oil into paste, and then he took the thermostat out and drove it some more. This time the motor got soo hot and was without lube that a piston probably got stuck in it's cylinder which caused a rod to snap and the car to just shut off, without it being able to crank back over until it cooled enough. good job the motor is toast, and no matter what oil you put in it it will always knock, the sound is coming from the crank hitting the damaged piston's connecting rod every revolution, and the rod smacking the block after being hit... my advise is to just drive it until the motor locks up completely, which it will sooner or later.

 

That poor car. I shudder to think of what was done before this.

Well, look at it this way, you now have a good excuse to go buy a 350 block and have someone build you a motor. No, I don't think you should try that yourself.

 

If you're having trouble revving past 3000 rpm, try pulling the valve covers and checking your rocker arms and pushrods. You might have a bad rocker or bent pushrods that makes your engine run like that. If that's not it, I would be more inclined to blame a wrist pin before a rod. Wrist pins that fail cause the rod to be thrown out of the side of the block, making people erringly believe their rod was bad when 87% of the time it was really the wrist pin that caused the dreaded knock in the motor. You also might want to check your exhaust for leaks. I don't know how adept you are at discerning engine noises, but an exhaust leak might fool you into thinking you have a knock when you're actually just hearing the acoustic note of a slight exhaust leak as it echoes in the engine bay and under the car. Horrid sound by the way. The sooner you climb under that car, the sooner you'll figure it out.

 

yeah but i did a compression check and all are at or around 150psi DANG this sucks but yeah really dont care about this motor already got the 350 block.

 

well, have some fun beating what little life is left in the 305 before the 350...

 

150# cranking compression is just fine. It might run for another 100K miles, as long as you don't abuse it more.

 

I may be missing something here. But by the description, it sound like either a main or a rod bearing.

 

That's a good point corky, but on the same token, it could even be a spark plug wire that's grounding out on the block. The problem can't be diagnosed properly without more information that can only be obtained through the owner doing some checking. Since he has decided to drive it until it dies, we'll probably never know the real reason it knocked. So I say "more power to him."

 

ok heres some more the sound is coming from the passenger side i laying down i can hear the sound coming from the back of the engine almost by the trans were converter is when i slowly start reving it it will get a bit higher than 1500rpm and start to stumble and its hard to rev any higher and thats when the knocking is the most loudest and when let off the gas it sounds like ratleing.

 

Take off a plug wire at a time and see if the sound lessens or goeas entirely away with any disconnected. Granted this doesn't work so well if you have a motor with a few spun bearings...

 

ohh yeah this motor has 250,000 miles on it with no rebuild i think its time for a new motor anyway. i got the 350 short block from my boss it has the pistons crank and rods if all those parts are in good condition what would i need to buy new for it just to get it in the car like new bearings and rings for mabye another year till i save up some money to get everything new like i planned to but dont have the money right now and want to be able to drive it some more this summer i know it sounds stupid but ive been working on this car for awhile and everything on it is preatty much brand new besides the engine and trans. i just baught a turbo 400 to so i guess that will go in to with engine while i have it out.

thanks for all the replies guys