I got a new LT1 mini starter, and it worked fine for about 5 turns, then it started sticking on the flexplate, and then after a another few turns it just sounded like an RC car, or vacuum cleaner. It's a constant "WOOOSH", not a "RUM, RUM, RUM, RUM" sound of the starter turning it in one "throw" at a time.

I look under there, and the pinion gear gets stuck in the teeth of the flexplate.

I've been adding shims all day long. I have about 260 worth of shims (those are the numbers on there atleast... I'm guessing it's MM's?) with the same bit.

If I loosen the bolt closest to the flexplate, and keep the farther one as tight, it tilts the starter enough that it will just clank on the flexplate instead of getting caught in between the teeth.

I've had autozone test it several times and every time they say it tests just like new (which it ought to), and so they wont give me a new starter.

Can this be an internal problem with the starter? Do I need more shims? Why would it work for 5 turns, but then slowly fail until it will just jam itself into the starter gears and not turn it, but just make a vacuum cleaner sound?

Thanks for any help, this is the last thing keeping me from driving my car!

 

Usually if the starter tests good, it is. I know because I work at Kragen. Since the bendix gear keeps on getting stuck in the flywheel, I believe shiming will be the best fix. When starters are reman'd, they are sometimes milled to get the mating surface true. This usually means more shims than usual. You should be able to stick a paper clip in between the bendix and ring gear when the bendix is extended. This may require more shimming on one side than the other. This can also cause the noise you describeif the bendix is just spinning and not engaging the ring gear. Try to get the proper clearance and then try to bump her over. I think that will fix the problem. Good luck.

 

I agree with shimming the starter. It might take a bit, but eventually you'll get her right.

 

Thanks. I guess I was just baffled that it would require 250+mm of shims... isnt there a way to return the product if things like these are extremely out of tolerance? I spent atleast 9 dollars on shims for this thing.


Is there an easy way to extend the gear without turning the car over? I tried sticking a flathead screwdriver in there, but the angle of everything didnt really let me get behind the gear so I could push it out.

Thanks again

 

It's probably not mm's, 25.4mm = 1 inch. thousands maybe?

 

9 bucks in shims seems like a lot. Are you sure you have the right starter? If you have an original starter, check the nub, for lack of a more technical word thanks to a brain-fart, the part that rests under the flywheel in the trans inspection cover, to make sure they matched. If your new starter has a smaller nub that places the starter gear to close to the flywheel, you could wind up with an insane amount of shims. The motor and possibly the solenoid can be smaller, but the nub needs to be pretty equal to the original. It's not unheard of for someone to receive the wrong part. I'd check that out before I wasted anymore time shimming that starter.

 

You mean the bendix? Or the nose housing?

I think that the angle at which the bendix retracts is off, causing it to just get jammed in the flexplate or bounce off it.

This is an LT1 starter. It should (emphasis on "should") be a direct bolt in, like so many others have done before me.


I have a question though... how many teeth are on the bendix gear on the starter; for our sized flexplates (154 teeth IIRC?).

 

I think the Lt1 ring gear has 153 teeth and it spec'd at 12 3/4 inch diameter. According to Jim Pace Performance, the Lt1 starter will work for this only. Since you have an auto, I think you most likly have a 168 tooth flexplate. Thit could be your binding issue and explain the excessive shimming. Hitachi does make a pretty affordable 1.5 horse starter that fits both 153 and 168 tooth ring gear with a "straight across" bolt pattern. under p/n PSL-100. You can get it form summit or kragen. I have this starter and it kicks ***. Cost is around 150.00

 

i had the exact same problem with my 1986 iroc. i eventually got the engine cranked and looked at the flexplate and could see it shaking. I then realized my problem lyed in the flexplate itself. I had to take the transmission out to replace the flexplate, and problem solved. the flexplate was about $15 from Advance Auto Parts. The starter would work before if I loosened the bolts and pushed the nose to the flexplate, but eventually would get stuck in the teeth, or get pushed out due to the bent flexplate. A cracked flexplate would cause the same thing, but may not vibrate when the engine is running. Try watching the flexplate as someone cranks the engine. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks alot. I have a feeling my flexplate is not torqued all the way in one bolt(matter of fact, I know it... dont ask lol).

I think you just saved me a heck of a lot of hassle if this works out.


BTW, I went through a lot of hell to find a 153 tooth 700R4 flexplate when I built the motor

 

happy to help out anytime. I know how frustrating the problem was for me. I hope that is alll it is. Good luck.