350 stroked to 383 bored 60 over
Scat nodular iron crank
4130 connecting rods
hypereutectic flat top pistons
Dart Pro 1 Alum heads (205/160 valves, 215 cc runners)
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap Manifold
1 inch spacer
750 double pumper
Comp Cams hydraulic solid lift 260/260 dur @ .050, .555/555 lift
1.6 Rocker arms
1 3/4 " headers
and I'm figuring at least a 3000 rpm stall

I know it will be pretty radical, but this car will only be taken out once or twice a week if it is nice. I'm also a little iffy on the crank, rods, and piston combo taken the abuse, but I figure if I have everything tuned in right and don't put nitrous on it, it would be alright. Wondering about hp/torqe numbers, 93 octane compatibility? better parts combo with similar performance?

 

HYD, solid make up your mind. (its a solid)

I'd use a Victor Jr. Intake for a cam that big. witrh a cam that big you're moving out of the optimin rpm range of a dual plane intake,

Here is a better cam COMP # 12-502-5 better with either intake. 3500+stall.

 

I knew that it was solid, not sure why I put hydraulic there also, long day at work...

I liked the camshaft you pointed to also. How would the performance of that camshaft hp/tq wise differ from the original one I had planned?

 

More torque = more go.

 

that cam isn't going to be .555 lift with your 1.6 ratio rockers. it should be .592. with that much lift and duration anything less than about 3500 stall and it's going to feel very sluggish down low. if you stroked it to a 383 i'm assuming you used a 3.8 stroke. using the common 3.75 stroke give you a 377 and boring it to .060 over would make it a 388. you don't stroke it to a 383, you stroke and bore it. if you bore it .060 over it's no longer a 383 either, it's now a 388. the list of parts you have there would be great for a race only engine, but that's about all i'd use it for. a 383 due to it's small bore/stroke ratio doesn't breath all that well up high for the same reason the 305 doesn't. i'd recomend keeping the duration around 240-250@.050 using a 3500 stall and a lift around .550-.570 (with your 1.6 rockers). many people have turned the stroker combo's up to 7k, but they don't run much harder than the one's that keep the to below 6500 where they belong.

 

Alright cool, learning a lot.

Are there any hydraulic, non-roller camshafts that fit that cam profile, or will I have to go solid lift?

 

Yes there are but the solid will be better. the one I recommended is a tight lash cam and will not be execessicly noisy or a pain to keep adjusted. Use the recomended valvetrain components.

This engine will run fine on the street with the right converter, gearing and ignition curve. Keep the compression ratio about 10:1 for 92 octane.

 

Thanks a lot I appreciate everyone's help. Will the combo with the cam you recommended have enough power to put the car in the 11's w/ a sticky 26" tire and 4.10 gears?

 

what compression ratio you running? what rod length? your converter may be a little small as well as the cam. a single plane intake and 1 7/8 headers should help as well. your crank and rods are fine they can handle alot, your pistons though are a different story, they will most likely fail before anything else.


last engine i out together i used a scat crank same as yours 4130 i beam scat rods and a light weight je forged piston. its running 12.7:1 compression, a .640 lift solid roller cam around 250degrees duration at .50, dart pro1 220 heads out of the box, supervictor intake and done up hp holley 950, we are running a 5500 8inch converter with a t400 and 4.88 gears with a 28 intall tire, this combo puts a 3100 lb 1970 nova in the mid 10's with a 1.39 60ft.


with your combo, you might be able to break into the 11's, all depends on how well your chassis works.

 

I was just gonna say the same thing...cam's too big for the intake. My rule of thumb, as far as camshafts go, is if you're not sure....go with the smaller one. All that can happen is you're a bit overstalled (if you dont match the converter) and you run dry up top. I'd rather be undercammed than overcammed any day.

And if you're going that far with the rotating assembly, why not buck for some forged pistons? I don't like hypers personally....they scare me a little bit. Good for the price, and better than cast. But....GOOD? No, not GOOD. *Okay*.

 

I could see you getting 11's out of it.

Lighten the car. (AC etc) Get rid of the heavy th700 for a th350 with a "race converter" (8 or 9") ( lighter, cheaper cheaper converters more reliability. Rear end suspension mods. Frame conectors Use a Vic JR on this one and a modded 750 DP ( 820CFM) Minimum 1.75" long tube headers. If you want to run 11's you have to launch hard.

If you're in the Northeast US. this guy builds nice converters and trans.

 

The motor isn't built yet, I wanted to get a check on the compatibility of everything before I started. I think the rod length in that kit is 5.7.

Yes I am in the northeast, I was going to attempt to rebuild the transmission on my own with help from a book.

 

Good luck with the tranny..... My buddy thought he could 'rebuild C4's no problem'..... the C4 in his daily driver failed 3 times, each time from a different problem. He finally conceded and didn't work on it again, but he still insists he knows how to do it.

Beware of trannies, they're more complicated than they look.

 

Hey Bill consider going to a forged Piston......way less work in the long run when you do plan to use nitrous.......take it from me i was once where you were & had to change the pistons a year later when i decided i wanted to use some nitrous. The rods are OK....but a 4340 I-Beam or even better H Beam can be had from Scat/Eagle relatively inexpensively. The cast crank is fine.

As for the heads, Pro-1's are good but beware of their hardware (valves, springs, retainers, locks, seals) Dart uses junk to assemble them, as does Edelbrock and Pro Action (gone now)

AFR uses good stuff in their heads if you buy them from one of their dealers or direct, beware of those "good deals" because this is exactly where you "get what you pay for"


Anyhow dependant on what head you go with, match the lift to it & get the duration you need the motor to be in RPM wise. So basically for a 383 10.5:1 area pump gas, you'll want 240-250 degrees @ 0.050" and valve lift depending on where your heads start to fall off (prob around .560" for the Pro 1 head untouched)

Go with Vic Jr or Super Vic if you can fit it in your engine bay (hood clearance) and a 750 or so carb, double pump.

if you have any more questions or want some tips on where to buy that rotating assembly for a GOOD price PM me

 

Relatively little duration for a 5500 stall no? This was a 383? I cant imagine the thing made any power above 6300....thats not much HP to play with when dealing with that high of a stall converter.

 

5500 stall with a 4.88 gear and a 28" tall tire. running mid 10's with that 60' would put you crossing the traps at around 122-125 and put you turning around 7800rpm counting converter slippage. that's rather impressive for a 383...

must have been one well "done up" holley 950...

 

My combo(see signature) is very similar to what you are looking at building. I would also recommend forged pistons and rods if you can afford it. My setup is a good compromise for street and strip use. If you don't mind adjusting valves once in awhile go with a solid roller, I'm thinking of switching over to a solid roller to get a little more RPM out of my engine. If you drive on the street quite a bit or don't want the hassle of adjusting valves go with a hyd-roller. I'm using a XE294 hyd/roller cam and still even using power brakes with a vacuum canister. I run 93 octane pump gas, shift at 5800RPM's, run mid 11's and can drive on the street anywere..makes for a good reliable setup. Not saying its the absolute best setup but if your goal is 11's N/A and staying streetable its a great combo. You could easily see 10's with more compression, larger solid roller cam, and race gas...but that in my opinion takes the steetablilty(fun factor) out of the car.
Just remember you have to set up your chassis to get your car to hook decent to get anywere near the 11's. Having 500+HP won't get you into the 11's if you don't get the power to the ground.

 

Well I'm thinking that the engine block (the ones available to me to purcharse) will be made before 87, meaning I can't use a roller cam correct, unless I get retro-fit?

Hyper pistons are definitely out of the picture, I'm going to go forged, whose are the most affordable?

So I'm wondering, I need a TH-350, new converter, subframe connectors, new wheels, tires, more suspension work, etc., and I want to redo my interior, the new engine, and then a paint job (also need a new hood). I'm going to my 3rd year and college and I really have to bust my *** at work, plus save in order to get money for the car. Should I take care of those things first before I start funnelling money towards an engine?

 

Yea you will have to use a retrofit roller setup if you have an older block, my block is a 73 so thats what I have.
What order you start buying stuff is up to you. Idealy its best to do it all at the same time or do the suspension and chassis stuff first but hardly anyone ever does that stuff first. I had the subframe connectors and a 6pt roll bar before I did the swap. Then I did the trans, engine, and rearend at the same time. That way I atleast knew I shouldn't be breaking anything major. Then later I added more suspension parts and fine tuned the combo. If I were you at minimum I would have subframe connectors, well built trans & converter, before I would even think about putting the 383 in. Your stock rearend might last for awhile as long as you keep street tires on it, if you put some sticky tires on and hook well it won't last long.

 

The best BANG for your BUCK while retaining a quality forged piston is the "WISECO PRO-TRUE" series. These pistons come with Hasting plasma Moly rings & pins....about $400US if you look hard enough.

I used these pistons in my 1st 383 with a 200HP nitrous kit & when i sold the shortblock they looked great......had no marks etc

As for where to put your money....its your choice.

I did it "backwards".....built a good 383, used nitrous, welded connectors in, went 10.50's @ 125.......then i did the diff, small 6 pt "roadrace" style cage, suspension, etc....

Whatever floats your boat....but please when it comes to the engine, "Do it right, not twice" Spend the $ now and dont worry as much about it later.

-Carm

 

yeah its gone 123 mph so far, just touching 7300 rpm thru the lights.

aslo someone mentioned the duration, the cam has a very agressive ramp on it so the lower duration is that much of a hinderance, we change valve springs often depending on many races we go to also becasue of the agressive lobe.

the carb is a holley hp series originally an 850 but it has been modifed, what those mods are i dont know, but it flows almost 1000 now. the carb came off a freinds ss/modified car.

 

I'll definitely save for a set of forged pistons. And I guess I'll spend a little extra money and go with a retro-fit hydraulic roller, again somewhere between 240 and 250 degrees duration.

 

If I went with a set of cast iron heads instead, what's the max compression I could use and still run 93 octane fuel?

 

With cast iron heads I wouldn't go much over 9.5:1, but it also depends on cam selection. The more duration the cam has the more pressure it will bleed off and you get get away with higher compression..but as a general rule around 9.5:1 is safe.

 

Well with a cam with about 244* duration at .050" lift, would I be able to get away with 10:1 compression with cast irons?

Also, (should probably be in the tranny board), if I get a TH350 that's full manual, then I won't have to run a TV cable to the carb right?

 

depends on overlap, the more overlap you have in a cam the more it bleeds off compression.

 

How about this cam?

Edit: that didn't work. The cam is a magnum retro-fit hydraulic roller, the 304HR w/ 244 dur at .050 and .600" liftr with 1.5 rockers.

Comp's website says it is retro-fit even though Summit Racing doesn't mention that. I'd run 1.5 rockers with that instead of the 1.6 rockers and how about World Products Motown 220 heads, with 10.1 compressoin? Is that cam a small base circle or will there be clearance issue on a stroker motor?

 

Hmm, even more reconsidering. Being this is my first engine, I think I'm going to go milder.

What if I just go with a:

350 cubic inches, then get a Summit rebuild kit with forged pistons and possibly Scat 4130 I-beam rods.

Then modded Vortec heads with 550 max lift and then have some port work performed on them.
Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold
Holley 650 CFM Double pumper
Comp XTreme Energy 274