I am basically building up a very big wish list, but how much of a crank can a 305 bored .060 over take?

Maybe a 400 crank with 350 mains? What about more? Maybe a 4.000" crank. My question is will it fit, will it work? Does the block have to be machined? What size rods and where to set that pesky piston depth.

I am looking for maximum displacement and torque out of a 305. a 340cid or better sounds real nice. It will be carbed, probably have vortec heads, and have a nice big street cam.

 

400 cranks have larger mains, they won't fit without turning them down.

The best way to build a large displacement 305 is to get a 350 or 400 block and rotating assembly to match.

 

Thats why I asked but aren't the main journals the same on a 305 and a 350. Because they do sell 400 cranks with the 350 main journal.

 

That's a 383 crank, or a 335 crank, or more generically a 3.75" stroke crank.

 

Here better example, is this what you are refering to as generic stroke crankshaft? If so would it work and could I stick with stock rods/ pistons and just gain more cid. I want to actually complete a decent motor, especially against the odds and this would make probably torque. And keep me low revving. Would have to do any machining or change piston height?

This more my budget but that had more info it diff is in casting vs forged:
10350375057I 3.750" 350 internal 1870 cast steel 5.7" minimum rod length 300.00

 

By the time you've done all that, you'd have been better off building a 350, or a 383, or a 400.

 

hey for 300 bucks who can complain. Plus, I dont stop on projects. Would i have to change anything from stock other than the crank and the bearings? And of course el cheapo high compression pistons

 

You won't get it done for anywhere near $300. That crank needs a 5.7" rod. To use a 5.7" rod in a 305 bore with a 3.75" stroke, you'll need relatively expensive 335 pistons with higher wrist pins. You'll also need a shop to balance the entire assembly, and the block will need to be clearanced (which you could do yourself).

At the end of it all, you'll still be stuck with the miserably small 305 bore, with all its valve shrouding issues. You'll have spent more money than it would have cost to buy a bare 350 block and rebuild it into a 350 or 383.

 

agreed. if only i had the green.

 

5.7" rod= free
Block prep= what would have to be done
bearings=$100-130 give or take.

May I ask my dad has worked on engines for almost 25 years, how would one go about balancing the assembly? No he hates helping me, but I have garages (plural) full of tools.

The pistons I will look into. First engine build, I want to get it right. Plus being able to rip threw 350's in a 305 is really fun. I used to do it with my Iroc. Off the line and gone.

But now I want more power. Plus this 305(315) has 10K on it. For a 20 year old engine not so bad.

 

5.7" rods might be free, as long as they don't need to be resized. Check the price of the pistons you'll need.

To balance it, you take a box full of parts to a machine shop and say "here, balance this". Then you go back later, give them money, and they give you the parts back balanced.

You might be able to beat up on 70s smogger 350s when you're done, but you won't be beating up on anything modified. An equally built 350 will walk all over you, and will have spent less money to do so.

 

i dont know I am aiming to get low 13's here:

3.790" Hyper Flat top w/ valve relief Pistons
5.7" Rods
Vortec heads
GM Eliminator or Low rise

Camshaft
LUN-60102 262 cam or 268 cam
LUN-60103.

and a holley 650 cfm carb

for a 340cid engine that sounds fine right.

Hey how about about bore to stroke ratio is it bad when its 1.01

 

Bore to stroke ratio isn't your problem, the 3.74" bore is. The valves are shrouded, limiting their flow, and with some heads you can't even get much lift out of the cam before the valves smack into the deck.

335 pistons are relatively rare and expensive, because most people are smart enough to not bother with the 305 block. 383 pistons are considerably more common, and therefore less expensive. For the difference price in the pistons alone, you'll be able to buy a bare 350 block to build a 383. There is nothing to be gained by building a 335 if you're looking for performance.

 

That may be the best way I have ever seen that put!!!

 

IMO, you are going to be VERY dissapointed...Maybe low 13s, with a decent modded 350! Just because its 10 c.i. shy of a 350, doesnt make it a 350. You are going against the grain here.

 

so should i just make it a running engine.. ie gaskets, bearings etc and sell it. it was a running engine

 

The 305? If you've never built an engine before, you could rebuild it for practice and sell it to recover the cost of gaskets and such. Nothing wrong with getting someone else to pay for your experience I guess. No warranties expressed or implied, void where prohibited by law, of course.

 

yeah I guess how much would you sell it for, Its completely degreased,,,, I need a cam damnit the one in there was a reconditioned camshaft. ATK for ya. How much to sell a very clean 315 without a camshaft, painted. Degreased and honed. or should I just sell it as is.

 

I don't know if anybody mentioned this but:

Offset grind and reweld the crankshaft to your own custom stroke.

I know for sure that the welding would only cost near $100, but first you would have to get it offset ground, that welded, and then reground to whatever you want.

Then the issue of piston and rods, but you can figure that out mathematically.

 

Custom stroke means custom pistons, or custom rods, which means even more money.

Almost nobody welds up cranks anymore, especially not cast stockers.

 

Apeiron, my thing is that I like to have something that noone else does. Do you believe that with either of those cams, a 3.796 Bore by a 3.750 stroke could get high twelves or very very low thirteens.
Using Vortec heads (machined for the lift), a mechanical distributor and a good carb. It doesn't have to be a race engine, just I never give up on a project.
My thing is finding pistons that have the bore and stroke listed. I can find the 335 pistons but not the 340 pistons. Apparently, very few have attempted this.

This will probably go into a very old car 1960's and back, but it is a thirdgen motor. It will not have to pass emissions because of its age and will be an all out hotrod. Anyone know of any company that makes a piston, cast/forged/hyper. with that bore and stroke.

 

I'm not trying to be mean,here.And I understand the desire to be different.But take a long,logical look around.THERE IS A REASON NOONE BUILDS 305'S!They just suck for performance,period.I've had strong ones,and they are great for their intended purpose,which is commuting and economy.But all the reasons not to mess with it have been plainly stated already.Take all those factors,plus the fact that they had a detonation problem at 8.0:1,should tell you to ditch it,at any loss,and get a 350.rebuild it with quality parts,spend time on a camshaft manufacturers tech line,and smoke ANYTHING that you could build your 305 into,and it's very plain to see,it's not worth it on any budget.You can change parts,but you can't change the laws of physics.

 

Being unique is fine, but I question the wisdom of uniqueness for it's own sake. You'll be spending a lot of money to be unique in an area that nobody will ever see, and few will even understand. Worse yet, you'll be at a disadvantage in an area that will notice, which is performance.

There are valid reasons to build a 335. If you need to cheat the smog tester or your insurance company and keep your original block, or maybe if you're racing in some sort of F.A.S.T. class where you need the original block, I could understand. But I don't understand why it's important to have something that few other people do, especially when it's something that few other people even want.

Any piston manufacturer will sell you a piston for any possible combination of stroke, bore or rod size, but you'll be paying a premium for it.

This engine might have started in a thirdgen, but as soon as you unbolt the motor mounts, it's no longer a thirdgen engine, any more than it's a "Corvette motor", it's just another 305. Whether or not you'll be running twelves or thirteens depends on what car you're putting it into.

 

Bottom line is, you have a kooky idea, and you know its not right, but you are just hoping someone on this forum agrees with it! Maybe when its done, you can use a points distributor too.

 

if you wanna be original just build a 4" bore motor and swear its a 305. That way you can build something thats practical, save money, make more power, and you can pretend you're "original"

 

If anything you may just need custom pistons.

I haven't actually measured this out but check this idea:

Grind the 3.47 stroke crank to a 3.17 stroke
Use 6.0 rods
Use 5.7 rod Pistons (3.47 Stroke)

The increase in the rod length makes up for the destroke...Did I miss something

Rev engine to 8000 RPMs all day

 

yeah but for some reason I have been told here that a shorter stroke doesn't increase the ability to rev

 

How about we use 7.43" rods and a .020" stroke... then we could spin it to eleventy-billion RPM for months at a time.

 

"Of course it's a 305, just like the decal says."

 

Just shortening the stroke doesn't increase the ability to rev.

Shortening the stroke does increase the ablity to live with revs. If displacement is maintained, shortening the stroke increases the ability to breathe - remember the 3.736" vs. 4" bore?

Either freshen up the 305, or go find a 350. There is no other viable path for you.

 

Being different is fine and all, but wake up and smell the race fuel. Build a 400 or hell what about a 327??? You can rev the dog **** out of it.

This is the way we all look at 305's...

" You can polish a piece of **** all you want, at the end of the day you still have a piece of ****..."

Save your money, build a 350 or a 400, then take the money you saved and do these 2 things:

Go to Disney Land
Buy 305 decals for your car.


chris

 

I actually just quit my job, so all projects are suspended due to the factor that I am going to college. St. John's University, Jamaica, Queens, NY. I might just rebuild it with a decent cam and stock heads/intake LG4.... Anyone know whats max lift on 416's?

 

e different... but use the right 5.0, that would be different and you may actually make some power.

 

I think this is the path you should take mcdamit. But go ahead and build a 335 or a 340 or whatever.. don't come back complaining when all it can run is a high 13 though.

 

dude I already said I dropped the idea, my friggin Iroc could probably run a 13 with some tuning. Right now I might just put a decent cam and lifters in and call it a deal. Anyone know what max lift on stock 416's are

 

About .400" with stock springs.

About .450-.480" with good aftermarket springs.

 

Shortening the stroke slows piston speed down, therefore, higher RPMs can be obtained without blowing up the engine. I would say that it does increase the ability to rev. However you would need to match the heads intake bla bla to get to those higher RPMs. High RPMs = More displacement.

Its just something that would be very custom.

323 CI 5.3 liter <- WTF is that, its my very own engine (4.030x3.17), called the Kentec 5300 (my name is Ken)

 

youd be surprised what you might find in alot of nhra stockers/superstockers

 

Those aren't your typical street application.

 

It is not recommended to weld cast cranks.

Offset grinding is not uncommon, people usually stroke them instead of destroking.

A Ford big block crank can be offset ground and not welded. They just use Chevy rods with smaller journals.

 

Offset grinding is much more common in the Ford world, where they don't have as large a variety of interchangeable cranks.