does anyone know the name or have a brake bleeding machine. or can one be fabricated? do the might vac handheld pumps work any good? i'm tired of bleeding my brakes and since i am having so many troubles with my brakes i am going to have to do alot of part swapping until i get it right. see other post "Can Anyone Help Me?" for problem.

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86',88',89' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4

94' Formula, LT1, 6spd

[This message has been edited by mystikkal_69 (edited September 29, 2001).]

 

You could just get some "speed bleeders". I don't know how well they work but it's a though. I'm referring to the bleeders that have a check valve in them to make it a one-man job.

Clem

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Clem
SCCA TransAm Series Race Mechanic/CrewChief
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1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, NO T-tops, (unfortunately) Auto Transmission (hopefully not for long)

 

that's something that i'm gonna look in to. can you get them at a local auto parts store or do i have to get them through jegs? thanks for the reply

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86',88',89' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4

94' Formula, LT1, 6spd

 

Not really sure about the local parts place. I know summit used to have them. I haven't got any yet, but always thought I would someday (car hasn't been running in a while)

Clem

 

I saw them at pep boys where they keep all the 'dress' up stuff.

 

the might vac works well, cost around 200 dollars, kd and lisle make a simple cup type one man bleeder set up also


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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

as for the speed bleeders i headed out to a couple pep boys and they were out of stock. they told me me they will not be stocking the performance/dress up section for a while in order for the "new stuff to come in." oh well..... thanks for the help guys

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86',88',89' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4

94' Formula, LT1, 6spd

 

200 bones for a MightyVac? You gotta fine a new parts house. Heck, for that kinda jack, you should be able to find a no-name pressure bleeder.

Hey Mystik, how about you tell us your procedure for bleeding the brakes? Not trying to insult your intelligence, but maybe you're not doing something corretly?


[This message has been edited by 8Mike9 (edited September 29, 2001).]

 

how can you insult my intelligence if i have none . Hell i'm open to any suggestions. Well if anyone knows the "proper" bleeding procedure i would like to know it. if i am doing it the wrong way. well the way i do it is from the rear right to rear left to front right and to front left. all bleeding is done by "gravity bleeding". I have the mighty vac hand held pump and do not know if it's worth a sh*t for bleeding but i have not tried it yet.

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86',88',89' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4

94' Formula, LT1, 6spd

 

MityVac are useless POS's. You end up sucking more air past the threads of the bleeder than you do fluid.

Get Speedbleeders, you'll thank us later.

Also Pepboys is no longer gonna carry the Russell bleeders, not enough demand for them.

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86 T/A 5.0 A4 & 2.77 gear
15.62 @ 86 mph
93 Civic 1.6L
13.5 @ 100 mph

 

i knew it. the might vac sucks *****. well not literally(pun intended). but anyways, ok people what the speedbleeders part # for the rear PBR type. Or what's the thread size and length of the bleeder screw. i would also like to put them on the front. the front are the standard single piston cast caliper. i would also like to know that part # or thread size/length as well if anybody know's them. So i can go ahead and order them through the net. thanks again ppl.

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86',88',89' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4

94' Formula, LT1, 6spd

[This message has been edited by mystikkal_69 (edited September 30, 2001).]

 

Gravity bleedings (IMO) is only good for a start, I've never had good luck calling it the "final" bleed.

My suggestion is to get a friend to help you out.

Have the friend "pump up" the pedal and hold pressure on it. ONce the pedal is pumped up, you open the bleeder slightly, allowing fluid to come out (attach a clear tubing and run the tubing to a coffee/catch can to keep from making a mess). Hold th bleeded open until the helper has his/her foot to the floor. Remind the helper to keep his/her foot to the floor until you close the bleeder off completely.

Have the helper pump up the brakes again, and repeat the procedure.

Keep an eye on the M/C resevoir so it does not run too low, or you'll suck air and be starting all over again.

Watch the fluid coming out of the clear tubing, when it comes out with no more little air bubbles, you should be done.

Start with the right rear, then left rear, right front, left front.

If you have installed a new M/C, or run the old one dry, you'll need to reve the M/C and place it level in a vise and "bench bleed" it by pressing in on the plunger in the end. Most new or rebuilt M/C's will come with a little plastic barbed fittings and some tubing...attach these to the output ports on the M/C and run the other end of the tubing back into the respective resevoir. This way you're recirculting the fluid, and the M/C won't run dry.

Use something to depress the plunger that won't mar it.

The MightyVac works okay, as long as you can keep the tubing sealed well on the bleeders, I've used small plastic ties to secure the tubing. Even if MV does leak, it's okay because this is after the line and air won't get back in...only problem is you can't tell when you have all the air out of the lines.

I only use the MV to do an initial prime of the lines when I've replaced lines, etc.

INstructions for using the MV for bleeding are opposite...they say to start with the wheelcylinders/calipers closest to the M/C first.

 

let me see if i can find some sucker umm.. *cough* i mean some friend of mine to help me out with the bleeding. i'll go ahead and do the "pressure bleeding" and see what happens for now, until i can get some of those speed bleeders thnaks again mike, and everyone else.

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86',88',89' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4

94' Formula, LT1, 6spd