Car died after a race, pretty sure it's the fuel pump. Questions...
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,408
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From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
Car died after a race, pretty sure it's the fuel pump. Questions...
So I had just raced my friends 3.1... got a jump off the line and my trans wouldn't shift outta first, but we were pretty even, he was oh so slowly inching on me.
Anyway, we were pulling around through town and my car died, it was running, but every time I went to give it gas, it would shudder and throw me forward, but when I let off the gas it would roll fine, it did this twice before it died. I got it off to the side of the road, and thanks to the info I learned here, I knew it was either the fuel pump or the ignition moduel, but due to the circumstances, I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump... I'll put the key in and turn it to on to let the pump prime, and then go to start, and it'll wanna turn over and then die, and subsequent tries after that will yield no dice, but after I prime the pump again, it'll repeat...
It died not very far from my house, and my friends helped me get it to the side of the road, -plus- it died -right infront of- a mechanic...
1) I am right in thinking it's the fuel pump, correct?
2) (assume it is the fuel pump) When I have him do it, what can I make sure he does/replaces so that I have it done right and completely good? I want it done right, and I want it done better than before...
3) Is it likely that I will feel a difference with the new pump performance wise?
Thanks for your time!
------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.
C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg
Anyway, we were pulling around through town and my car died, it was running, but every time I went to give it gas, it would shudder and throw me forward, but when I let off the gas it would roll fine, it did this twice before it died. I got it off to the side of the road, and thanks to the info I learned here, I knew it was either the fuel pump or the ignition moduel, but due to the circumstances, I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump... I'll put the key in and turn it to on to let the pump prime, and then go to start, and it'll wanna turn over and then die, and subsequent tries after that will yield no dice, but after I prime the pump again, it'll repeat...
It died not very far from my house, and my friends helped me get it to the side of the road, -plus- it died -right infront of- a mechanic...
1) I am right in thinking it's the fuel pump, correct?
2) (assume it is the fuel pump) When I have him do it, what can I make sure he does/replaces so that I have it done right and completely good? I want it done right, and I want it done better than before...
3) Is it likely that I will feel a difference with the new pump performance wise?
Thanks for your time!

------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.
C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 2
From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
If it is your pump, obviously it will run better than it did right before it died, since it sounds like it was running lean.
When you do the pump, don't forget to get a new pump strainer (aka "sock") and a new fuel filter.
Make sure the mechanic fully seats the pump sock on the pump. You don't know how many tanks I have pulled after supposed "mechanics" replaced the fuel pump and found the sock laying on the bottom of the tank w/ the pump in my hand.
------------------
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'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey,
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Whatever chip I feel like burning,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
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SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
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4wheel Disc Brakes
Summit 1-5/8" headers, 2.5" Dynomax catback.
Best 1/8: 9.519@72.74
'97 Bonneville SSE
When you do the pump, don't forget to get a new pump strainer (aka "sock") and a new fuel filter.
Make sure the mechanic fully seats the pump sock on the pump. You don't know how many tanks I have pulled after supposed "mechanics" replaced the fuel pump and found the sock laying on the bottom of the tank w/ the pump in my hand.
------------------
FREE CARFAX Record Check
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen
GM Master Tech
ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA
'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey,
22# injectors,
Whatever chip I feel like burning,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
3.73 Posi
4wheel Disc Brakes
Summit 1-5/8" headers, 2.5" Dynomax catback.
Best 1/8: 9.519@72.74
'97 Bonneville SSE
Thread Starter
Moderator
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 1
From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
Sweet, thanks GMTech, you're just the person I was looking for to respond! 
I'm headed out right now to have another look see at what's up, check for codes and such, and to see if the service station is open. I'll keep you all updated.
------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.
C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

I'm headed out right now to have another look see at what's up, check for codes and such, and to see if the service station is open. I'll keep you all updated.
------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.
C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg
Xeno,
Not to put a damper on your exuberance, but you first need to make sure the pump is the problem. I'll bet GM Tech would agree on that. Test the fuel pressure. If the standing pressure is low, you need to do a couple other things before you decide to drop the tank and replace the pump.
The first is to replace the fuel filter. Since you'll need to do that if you install a new pump anyway, you might as well do it first. If it solves the problem, you've just saved a lot of time. If it doesn't solve the problem, at least it's done and you won't need to do it when the pump is replaced.
You should also make sure the pressure regulator is not stuck open. A little debris in the seat or valve disc can cause the fuel pressure to drop faster than Clinton's pants. Pinch the return line from the regulator and test the pressure again. If the pressure maintains with the line pnched, your problem is not the fuel pump.
If you do have to replace the pump, make sure the installer firmly clamps the pump adapter to the pickup assembly. There's nothing worse than have low fuel pressure from a new pump:
Of course, you DO have adequate fuel in the tank, right?
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
Justice and Freedom will Prevail
Adobe Acrobat Reader
[This message has been edited by Vader (edited September 30, 2001).]
Not to put a damper on your exuberance, but you first need to make sure the pump is the problem. I'll bet GM Tech would agree on that. Test the fuel pressure. If the standing pressure is low, you need to do a couple other things before you decide to drop the tank and replace the pump.
The first is to replace the fuel filter. Since you'll need to do that if you install a new pump anyway, you might as well do it first. If it solves the problem, you've just saved a lot of time. If it doesn't solve the problem, at least it's done and you won't need to do it when the pump is replaced.
You should also make sure the pressure regulator is not stuck open. A little debris in the seat or valve disc can cause the fuel pressure to drop faster than Clinton's pants. Pinch the return line from the regulator and test the pressure again. If the pressure maintains with the line pnched, your problem is not the fuel pump.
If you do have to replace the pump, make sure the installer firmly clamps the pump adapter to the pickup assembly. There's nothing worse than have low fuel pressure from a new pump:
Of course, you DO have adequate fuel in the tank, right?
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
Justice and Freedom will Prevail
Adobe Acrobat Reader
[This message has been edited by Vader (edited September 30, 2001).]
Thread Starter
Moderator
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 1
From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
Well, no codes... and it wouldn't restart.
Vader, first off i don't have access to a guage to check my pressure, plus it's sitting in pouring rain and there is no way I'm going to rawl under it now... The fuel filter is only a couple of months old, and I get my gas at a place that it always under constant use (Wawa gas, it's the cheapest and my car likes it). That pressure regulator... where is that located, internal or external, front of back of the car... Is it possible for dirt to be thrown up on/in it? My friends and I were doing doughnuts in a dirt parking lot prior to this, so it's a possibility. However I really think it's the pump, before it used to have a strong sound to it, and now since this happened, it litterally sounds dead...
Yes, I'm positive I have plenty of gas... damn near a full tank, had only gone about 30 miles on it...
GMTech, what's the normal shop time, and the realistic shop time for a job like this... if it really is the pump I don't wanna get raped for an entire day's worth of work...
Thanks for your advice suggestions everyone... anything else you can add?
Vader, first off i don't have access to a guage to check my pressure, plus it's sitting in pouring rain and there is no way I'm going to rawl under it now... The fuel filter is only a couple of months old, and I get my gas at a place that it always under constant use (Wawa gas, it's the cheapest and my car likes it). That pressure regulator... where is that located, internal or external, front of back of the car... Is it possible for dirt to be thrown up on/in it? My friends and I were doing doughnuts in a dirt parking lot prior to this, so it's a possibility. However I really think it's the pump, before it used to have a strong sound to it, and now since this happened, it litterally sounds dead...
Yes, I'm positive I have plenty of gas... damn near a full tank, had only gone about 30 miles on it...
GMTech, what's the normal shop time, and the realistic shop time for a job like this... if it really is the pump I don't wanna get raped for an entire day's worth of work...
Thanks for your advice suggestions everyone... anything else you can add?
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
From: Red Bud, Illinois
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: Pro-Built 700R4 2400 ACT Stall
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner 9-Bolt
believe me, test as much as possible includeing fuel pressure before you drop the tank or have it taken in. Because it's a PITA. Not exactly hard but just takes a while to do. For me and my cousin it took 12 hours to do my car. Probably would have been less if we wouldn't have ran into about an hours worth of problems with the panhard(or trackbar whichever).
------------------
89 IROC-Z 350 TPI
-Flowmaster Catback
-Performance Resource Chip
-700R4 (Rebuilt) Too much done to actually list
-K&N Airfilters
-Ported Plenum
-2.77 Gears (not much to brag about but eh, its there)
-MSD 8.5 mm plug wires
-Gutted cat
-!AIR
-Gutted Air Boxes
------------------
89 IROC-Z 350 TPI
-Flowmaster Catback
-Performance Resource Chip
-700R4 (Rebuilt) Too much done to actually list
-K&N Airfilters
-Ported Plenum
-2.77 Gears (not much to brag about but eh, its there)
-MSD 8.5 mm plug wires
-Gutted cat
-!AIR
-Gutted Air Boxes
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