I bought a haynes manual a while back and ever since i have had it, it has not helped me do a damn thing. Is it just me? I not really good with cars yet but i am trying to learn and this manual is not helping at all. Is the Chiltons manual any better or do i need to spring $100 for a dealer service manual?

------------------
Later,
Vomex
'89 GTA 5.7L TPI

 

dealer manuals..nothing better.

Actually, there isn't really anything wrong with the others..it just depends on what you are trying to do.

Some manuals are very vauge.
------------------
ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R
and 2 POS commuters...

R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"

[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited October 03, 2001).]

 

I think that is my problem, I dont know alot about my car and the Haynes manual assumes that i do. Is the dealer manual a little more explicit? Is it worth the $100?

------------------
Later,
Vomex
'89 GTA 5.7L TPI

 

I've heard the service manuals are much better... schematics and whatnot... I've used both Chiltons and Haynes and the latter is MUCH better. Damnit, I can't seem to find it either, had notes and everything in there!

------------------
~Luke
'91 Firebird :: L03/700R4 ::
Mods: Catco cat - Flowmaster 80 series - B&M Shift kit - TA tail lights - GTA rims - K&N - MacEwen guages
Stereo: Pioneer DEH-P8200R - Cadence 4x6's - Pioneer 6x9's - Kicker amps - Kicker 10" CompVR
Firebird parts - Selling an '80 Firebird for a friend
Moderator of tranny board over at TransAmGTA.com

 

Engine replacement instructions:
Remove radiator and drain cooling system.
Drain oil.
Disconnect flywheel and engine mounts.
Remove engine.
Replace in opposite manner.

 

I love the Haynes manuals. Most of the stuff you need information about they say to take it to a qualified tech. Why the hell would you buy the manual for then? Must be to look at that pretty spark plug chart. Or maybe the in depth details on how to change the motor oil and wiper blades.

Chiltons are alot better, especially with wiring diagrams, but are nowhere near the factory service manual.

 

I've got both the Haynes and the Chiltons. The Chiltons does have more and better diagrams and illustrations, but I've noticed in a few cases that their text is lacking.

 

I've noticed that they both only have enough information to make a backyard mechanic dangerous. Usually the information I want is not in either one or it's incomplete.

Get a dealer manual.

 

Example :

Clitons manual for an 86 camaro = 1 inch thick.

My dealer manual for same car = 2 1/2 inches thick.

Same car, twice as much info.

------------------
ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R
and 2 POS commuters...

R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"

 

or 2 times as much paper...

 

Your assertion is correct, the Haynes manual (for Camaro anyway) does indeed suck. It is better than nothing, but not in the same class as the factory manual.

I have both the Haynes and factory manuals. The factory manual not only has more information, it has better information. There are troubleshooting flowcharts, location diagrams, and more stuff that Haynes just doesn’t offer. Check out ebay for good deals on used manuals.

Also, realize there are some things that cannot be explained in a book, and have to be done to be learned. But the factory manual arms you with specific info that increase the odds you will complete the job successfully the first time. It's worth it.

 

I always get both the haynes and chiltons manuals. usualy if there is something one doesn't have, the other one might. For example, for my old Integra, the haynes manual didn't give any info on testing sensors, while the chiltons did.

------------------
- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series

 

I don't know, I think mine has been worth the $13.95. It helped me sort out splicing an '86 harness into an '82 body, and showed me how to get rear drum wheel cylinders out without having to go buy any special tools. Has the torque specs I typically need.

Only missed a couple of small things needed to replace the heater core. I probably would have really messed that up without it.

Wonder where it is right now? Haven't seen it for several months...

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 CC system w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback, restalled TC, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

 

I have the haynes manual for the 3rd gen fbird which is the nearest one I could find thats supposed to cover my car - an 89 GTA. I find the pictures are lacking - 99% of them are actually off the V6 bird, so its not a great help when you are new to V8 TPI's and are trying to identify and troubleshoot components. Its almost as if haynes didnt have access to a v8 TPI model for long. Also the wiring diagrams are flawed - IE there are two different schematics that the voltmeter appears in, in the instrument gauge and also the charging circuit diagrams. They are mutually exclusive - one shows the meter connected to the fuse box and other side straight to ground, and the other meter being grounded through the alternators regulator. Which one??? I wouldnt mind so much, but I DO have a problem with the vmeter reading low, and MAY have a prob with the alternator.

Anyway, thats my 2p done.

Smeg
89 GTA
United Kingdom

 

You forgot THE most important instruction in the engine removal (and all other operations on your car)

Step 1: Disconnect negative battery cable! LOL

Clem


------------------
Clem
SCCA TransAm Series Race Mechanic/CrewChief
-------------
1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, NO T-tops, (unfortunately) Auto Transmission (hopefully not for long)

 

I was reading a haynes manual to help set my timeing. What I needed to find is the tan wire with a black stripe there I would have a clip where you can disconnect the wire. The old haynes book said it should be right by the distributer cap, on the passenger side. Ha it even had a little picture of the clip and where is was. After 30min. of searching and ready to just cut the wire and forget about the clip. I found the clip way over to the right side just above the wheel well. The only thing that manual was good for was to find out what color the wire was.

------------------
89 Formula Firebird
Red with T-tops
5.0 305 FI
Soon to be a 400sb.

 

I had a Haynes and it sucked. I've got a Chilton's right now, but there is indeed some info that is lacking. Guess I should look into getting a dealer book.

 

Well I just went out and bought a chiltons. though I am impressed at the amount of detail, I noticed that either there is stuff missing from the electrical diagrams, or I have missed something. I guess you need to have both and then fill in the gaps yourself...

Smeg
89 GTA
United Kingdom

 

You are not alone. I bought on for my 2009 Dodge Caravan. I found more help on You Tube. Complained to them and have heard nothing in response.

 

Since your new around here , I'll let you in on a couple of things about this board ;

#1 , This is a forum dedicated exclusively to Third Generation GM "F" body cars , which are 1982 thru 1992 Chevy Camaro / Pontiac Firebird . Any talk of Dodge Caravans , or any other vehicle besides GM third gen F body cars , is off topic and subject to deletion per moderator discretion .

And ,

#2 , If you are talking about GM Third gen F body cars , it helps to look at the date of the post your responding to . In this case you have bumped a thread that's been silent for a good 18 years , old enough to vote & join the Army ....

 

You made an account just to say this? Somebody needs a new hobby. LOL! There are cars for sale in the classifieds section to remedy that situation.

 

Haynes is better than nothing, but if you plan on keeping this car, it's well with the cost to get the factory manual. So much better than any of the generic alternatives...real details pertaining to your exact model and year. It's been over twenty years since I've purchased any manual other than factory and have no regrets about spending the money on the correct manual.

-Rich