scauffiel

Hey fellas, I've got the Tommy Johnson mini-starter and I think the solenoid is bad on it. If I were to walk into the nearest Auto Parts store, what make/model would I be asking for? It's something like a "hitachi" style, IIRC. Do these even come on factory vehicles? Would they even know what the hell they're looking at, or is it a "specialty" item? I can't get a hold of them right now, as it's after hours and I'd like to hook up with one tonight if possible.

I appreciate the help,

Steve

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Steve's Trans Am Temple

RB83L69

Try asking for one for a RX-7.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

scauffiel

Alright, I'll start with that - and if that ain't it, then I guess I'll go through all of their solenoids one by one...

Steve

johnsjj2

Good luck!! I'm not so sure a parts store would have one for that. You could try.



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Joshua Johnston
1991 Z-28


350, T-5, K&N, Ported Vortec heads, Edelbrock RPM, Holley 750 D.P., HEI, 11.07:1 CR, Comp Cams Roller-.510"/.520"-282*/288* dur., Shorty Headers, Dual 2.5 Exhaust,Dynomax Bullet Mufflers, T&R Motorsports custom air intake

rezinn

Why do you think the solenoid is bad? Have you tried jumping it?

scauffiel

Well, it's a long story. I had the battery in the back of my TA. But after slower and slower starts, then it eventually NOT firing up my car, I jumped it and it fired right up. I figgered that my cables had gotten corroded and were giving me a bad connection. I run out to get new cables and move the battery back up to the front, to see if that helps with the slow starts. After moving it back up there and rewiring it, I go to start it and it goes "CLICK" then nothing.

I've got juice at the battery, I've got juice at the distribution block, but I have juice nowhere else including the fuse box. Checking the solenoid shows I have power at all three "lugs" - which, correct me if I'm wrong, I shouldn't have (the key was removed); I should only have it at the lug where the battery connects. SO I remove the starter and take apart the solenoid to see if anything is obviously wrong. I can't see anything wrong so I put it back together and test it on a buddy's car/battery by laying it on the strut tower (as ground) and checking it with power. It fires and the starter motor runs. Back to my car, I reinstall the starter and while hooking the battery back up, my hatch pulls itself down - and I have power everywhere again. Just not enough to start the car - and now it's getting dark.

Hmmm. Maybe my battery (an Optima) is low - I charge it overnight. Next day, I go to start it and CLICK - then nothing. I've got power at all three lugs again, and no power anywhere else.

Doesn't that sound like the solenoid is "sticking" somehow? I dunno. That's one of two ideas I'm working now. The other is this: When I took apart the starter to shim it (I removed the actual starter motor from the "block" that gets bolted to the engine), maybe it's not together tight enough to give a good ground. As a matter of fact, there is a small gap all the way around where the starter fits into the block. When I laid the starter on the strut tower, the ground went directly to the starter body, which is why it fired on my buddy's car. I don't recall if the slow starts started once I put in the shim, but it's worth a shot.

Sorry this is so long; Ideas?

Steve

Guest

It depends on the style of starter you have and what the solenoid looks like. Most of those have 2 angled contacts inside, one of which will get worn from use and thats where the problem is. Cant hurt to take it apart, they are really simple.

jimbuck

If your hatch pulled down, there is a wiring problem. When we just put a T56 in and were wiring the hatch pull down and release, when we grounded the switch, it cranked real slow and smoked the wire. Disconnected that switch and all worked fine. I would check the wiring for the hatch release. Don't know why, but it does affect the starter.

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